I checked my bed and it looks perfect pre heated to 60 degrees. No complaints here.
As far back as I can remember, Bambu beds have never been perfectly flat. My three X1Cs are concave in the center, and my H2D too. The only thing I’ve been able to do—on all my machines—is precise tramming of the build plates with a digital dial indicator mounted on the head, then fine-tune the distance at the four corners. The mesh handles the rest.
Totally agree with your statement, as a maintenance engineer I can’t even remember the amount of times i’ve said “What sort of IDIOT designer thought this was a good idea??” referring to trying to do a repair on a machine that you have to remove almost every part to get to the so called wearable part!! and also be double jointed in almost ever joint in your body just to get to it…!! As you said designed for cheap manufacture not repairing!! By contrast i’ve found both my P1S and A1 mini fairly straight forward to maintain and repair when required and the Bambu wiki has a vast amount of information on do these repairs yourself and please don’t forget that if you opened the back of your tv to replace a component you’ve instantly voided your warranty, but not with Bambu labs they encourage self repair and you keep you warranty too boot!! Lets be honest they are easy to repair one of the people that works in our factory bought an A1 mini to print bits for fishing and something went wrong with one of the boards in the extruder head (he doesn’t know one end of a screwdriver from another!) yet with support helping and me showing him the wiki he managed to swap out the faulty board!! Now that says something…!!
Checked mine too, was a bit convex (mid higher then edges). Ran the manual tramming as per wiki, seemed to do the job.
Would you be willing to create a post with methodology and tools/code used for others to replicate? I think this is something that may be extremely useful to the community, given that BL doesn’t want to expose the ABL data.
That’s a good idea, challenge accepted 
Wholeheartedly thank you. IMO tools like those are great for any advanced measurements or troubleshooting.
Done!
Seems to work fine for you! I’m getting slightly different readings, but I measure the heat bed itself rather than the plate — it should be almost the same though.
When I place my plate on it, everything looks perfectly flat, which is why I measured the bed directly.
So far, I haven’t had any failed or poor-quality prints that could be related to this, so I haven’t taken any new measurements since my X1C.
If I ever run into issues, I’ll measure again.
Have never put a ruler on mine. 2800hrs done so I hope its level 
Is everyone on here absolutely convinced that their ruler is totally true??
What? Without hyperbole? On the internet? Have you lost your mind?
Never have a machine shipped. When they go to a vendor they are shipped by pallet and crate and securely fastened as a large mass that is usually traveling form one point to destination without stops. When you order and have a unit shipped to you it is handled by many different folks in many locations with many different versions of safe package handling. It seems every case I’ve heard about major issues with bambulab products is somehow tied to a unit that’s been shipped. Was your unit shipped or did you pick it up in person?
If it’s a steel engineering ruler? Yes!
Not the plastic ones you use at school.
Update:
I finally received the replacement heatbed but it’s even worse than the original one with a 1mm convex bulge on the backside. This is ridiculous.
I contacted Bambulab with the ticket to report the issue and they offered me four spools of PLA as a solution. This is ridiculous. Four spools of filament aren’t a solution for delivering a usable or defective machine.
I’ve requested a replacement heatbed, a replacement machine, or a refund. Let me be clear, I don’t want to cause any trouble. I just want a usable and acceptable machine. I’m even willing to pay more to upgrade to H2S/D if the machine is more mature.
to be fair, “Everything’s great with my P2S” is a perspective more than an opinion
and of course “User123’s” experiences do not invalidate others.
Tossing my hat into the ring on this.
I’ve had the p2s for almost 2 months now - first 30 days or so were absolutely awesome.
Then it started constant extrusion motor issues, dove down the rabbit hole and went from “absolute 3d novice” to “spent all day reading wikis, reddit and forum posts on how to fix my issues” Of course it helps that I’ve got 30 years in IT support with a focus on end user hardware.
My filament was dry, I did countless cold pulls, I disassembled the Extruder and was very surprised when what came out looked different from the wiki. I calibrated after every failure, I cleaned my build plate with dishwashing detergent and a nylon brush after every failure.
Extrusion motor overload would lead to spaghetti and nozzle clogs, High detection would detect fine strands that it could keep going around (at first) then increasingly detected nothing.
several times my only hint at a clog was the head was 10 to 20 mm above the print "going through the motions with a slight bulge on the tip.
Other times it would keep going, not depositing on a clean plate, just stirring thin whisps in the air
which seemed to indicate partial clogging.
Each time, do a manual extrusion, multiple cold pulls, pop off the nozzle and clean any build up.
Sometimes I’d get 2, 3 small prints in, but nearly every “big” project would fail part way through due to extrusion \ nozzle.
Best progress I made was when I reset the machine to factory default, uninstalled \ reinstalled the software without baking up user settings and parked it in LAN mode for direct access.
Printed a good 5, 6 projects (one of them a full riser set) with no issues in PET-G
once I had the vented riser, I went back to pla…
first print ok, second print minor issue \ air printing \ third print ok.
Give it something bigger - a decent sized model figure for a friend’s birthday
Extrusion motor error in the middle of the night at 98% completion.
did all the usual and cleaned it all up…
Reported the problem again to support, started documenting the calibration
Then - bed calibration fails - swap nozzle, swap build plate
Then - Nozzle calibration fails - swap back to original nozzle
Then - Nozzle calibration fails - Swap back to 2nd New Nozzle
Then - Nozzle calibration fails
I’ve been getting constant issues since day 30~ish \ at 320~ish hours on the printer
I’ve now done another 30 hours of mostly troubleshooting and issues… It’s not able to heat the nozzle anymore
I’ve bought 8 nozzles and several build plates out of my own pocket, I’ve been going back and forth with Bambu support and they just keep sending me to the same pages and repeating the same advice I’m following in the wiki
I have asked several times, due to the reoccurring nature and the shifting of the errors for a replacement or at least a Depot Repair return package of which they keep telling me they are “escalating” but never actually do anything.
At this point I can’t honestly recommend a p2s. I’m sure other people have experienced better. I know from years of tech support that if a company has a stellar 95% quality control issue that still means 500 “bad” devices every 10,000 sold… and I’d say they’ve probably sold much more than that and given what I’m reading, experienced more than 5% bad.
I don’t want to write off the ecosystem or product design and I’m still interested in the multi-nozzle printers, it just amazes me how I went from “it just works” on day 30 to “why is it so finnicky” on a week later to “it’s non-operational” last weekend.
Honestly most of what I want out of it is organization for my main hobby of card and board games and helping my wife out with some other organization. I wish I either went lower with an A1 or higher with an X2d at this point.
Its been 10 months…
Ill respect your opinion, but keep in mind that here were a good amount of deleted posts in this topic so context is missing.