Hey guys,
I planning to buy this hotend. A friend of mine told me, that there are some tolerance issues regarding the position of the holes and some other stuff. Also, the manufacturing quality is not that great, I was told.
What is your opinion on this? I boguht the pre-assembled E3D HF ObXidian hotend, but I returned it. Didnt know, that there are known issues regarding the 40w Heater, in combination with increased flow volume.
Anyone else experiencing these quality issues?
Unless you plan on a lot of printing with .6 the increased flow isn’t going to be that noticable, in my opinion. It does print well and I do like switching nozzles quickly. Obxidian nozzles aren’t terribly cheap. On top of the $130 a authentic Obx HF is pricey. A brass HF isn’t that bad. The heater is solid, heats fast and seems to keep temp well. You may need to adjust temps from stock a bit, but nothing insane.
I was lucky, mine didn’t have any issues when I received it. It is the only set up I’ve used for months now. No isssues with print quality associated with the nozzle. Just be aware it’s possible you could get one that has issues with holes drilled wrong. I’ve seen issues, but they will replace it. You just need to be ready for an issue just in case.
This topic is about revo, and it’s a different system than regular BBL E3D system, with a different heating system. I’ve bought one, but didn’t arrive yet, because I change nozzles a lot. I find it easy to change, but don’t like to connect and disconnect wires a lot.
About the heater, Biqu site says it comes with a 60W heater, not 40W.
I have had nothing but trouble from mine and support is not helpful at all. I purchased in the New Year but just got around to using it a couple of months ago. Have had a lot of clogs resulting in having to remove the hotend each time, kind of defeats the purpose. After the last clog I started getting errors. Contacted Biqu and they said it was the thermistor and to reinstall. Reseated hotend a few times, same issue. Asked support if thermistor is replaceable, they said no. Asked what now, they told me it is out of the 180 day warranty, sorry for your inconvenience, this after I purchased 4 extra nozzles ($99.00 CND each), stupid really, I could have bought an A1 mini combo for what I paid.
The grass isn’t always greener and honestly I really couldn’t complain about the stock Bambu hotends or the results they were producing, lesson learned I guess.
The thermistor/heater is definitely replaceable. You just have to splice the Bambu connectors on. Here’s the 60 watt:
and here’s a 40 watt that works just as well:
I received and installed my panda Revo hot end yesterday. It came with the 0.4mm high flow brass nozzle. Not too excited about using brass but it’s w/e for now. I ordered some obxidian nozzles.
So far all is well. I’m pretty impressed with how much quicker I can print Petg with the high flow nozzle. Going to throw a spool of bambu Petg HF on tomorrow to see how fast I can get that to go.
Sorry to hear that, glad I can’t say the same.
I’m guessing you did bump the temps a bit, and that’s how they determined it’s the thermistor. Really hope they come out with a replacement, I’m not interested in splicing wire when it goes out.
Same here. I really wish they just came with a small patch cable and used the stock ones their other nozzles come with, especially if they aren’t going to sell replacements. Eventually the clones will pop up on Aliexpress but I’d rather have the real thing.
The video seems to prove that the Panda Jet (after correcting for manufacturing defects) outperforms the baseline Bambu air flow manifold in regards to the regular Bambu hotend. Anyone here using it that way? Or is there a printable that’s even better still?
45mm3/s is what I got from my testing.
I have 2 revos and both have been flawless. Ordering a 3rd soon.
I don’t honestly put a lot of stock into what YouTubers say (It’s a least a good starting point). Running a small farm with 20 Bambu machines where even our newer machines have more hours than most YouTubers only Bambu machine has haha. I found that the Panda jet does help with overhangs as the cooling is much more centered over the nozzle. The stock cooler is biased towards one side of the side which is fine if that’s where you need the cooling but when you come to the opposite of the model is like whoops. 
(Running ObXidians on all X and P machines patiently waiting for our Makos ordered in the second wave)
If it hasn’t been mentioned, heater cores are available.
Sounds like I am in the minority here of having had no issues with the installation of the Panda Revo on either my X1 or my P1.
And I am not experiencing, knock wood, any issues subsequently. It’s been about 4 months on the X1 and about 2 on the P1.
I have been using the ObXibian HF nozzles exclusively. Mostly the .6 and .8, although I did start out with the .4.
I print mostly in the BL PLA-CF and an offbrand TPU, Tinmorry, for the voltage testers I sell.
And have started printing some new items in the BL PETG Basic and the PETG-HF and have had good success.
The only minor issue I’ve encountered is little bit of extra filament sticking to the nozzles. So I just do a cleaning after a print and especially on the P1, I’ve added a skirt to the print because the P1 doesn’t do that second test extrusion line on the upper right corner of the buildplate like the X1 and that usually catches any stray filament before printing the first layer.
And after I bought the Panda Revo for the P1, i did request that they build me a separate heater block for the P1 and X1, so I’d have a spare on hand. Good to see that they have made that a stock item now.
all revo nozzles except the belt one works, I guess technically the belt revo also screws into the panda revo but the length is not right
I know I’m a few days late reading this post but my experience has been the same as yours. About the filament sticking to the nozzle tip I found some 3rd party silicone socks that cover almost the whole tip. I ordered some but haven’t tried them out yet.
Thanks for the tip!
I have ordered some as well!
I had the same issue, they had to send me a new heatsink.
Slice Engineering’s PRP is the best solution I have found to prevent filament sticking to any nozzle or other part of the hotend for that matter.
Absolutely correct! This paint has just about taken care of all poop problems on both of my printers. X1C and XMAX3.
On the X1C, i have to reapply once every two or three weeks. On the XMAX3, since it dont self wipe. It needs reapply once every 3 months.
Bought it in january and still on the same bottle. Good stuff.
I find diamond better. 