Panda Revo - what a bunch of

Bambu Lab X1 Series Bambu Lab X1C
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Let’s not forget that the E3D Diamondback Nozzles are ridiculously overpriced.

Currently it is cheaper to buy the E3D X Bambu Lab Diamondback High Flow nozzle full set up.

Then to buy the E3D Diamondback Revo nozzles, and it might be noted that E3D hasn’t released a High Flow version of the Diamondback Revo nozzles.

Also I believe that I heard that the E3D X Bambu Lab Diamondback High Flow nozzle full set up is plug and play right out of the box.

This means less of the annoying headaches that come with having to adjust the settings every time you go to print something. Plus constantly having to search for different settings to use every time you go to print something using BIQU Panda Revo Hotend.

Since I have yet to see a list of recommended settings to use for different filament types and different nozzles.

Also it would be nice if Bambu Lab would incorporate BIQU Panda Revo Hotend into the system.

Either by allowing the printer to recognize the hotend and having the correct recommended settings set up automatically or by allowing you to select BIQU Panda Hotend and nozzle size manually on Bambu Studios with all the recommended settings set up for you.

I haven’t played around with the software to much. But I am kind of sure that in Bambu Studio there are not to any options to save your settings so you don’t have to keep entering them every time you go to print with the panda revo.

Also I highly drought that in Bambu studio it will allow you to create and fully save on Bambu studio a full custom Hotend settings set up option.

Honestly I don’t think it is asking to much for them to include options that allow you to select your hotend type, nozzle type and size and they have the correct settings already in the program for you.

Plus now they are directly working with E3D selling upgraded hotends. Bambu Lab should automatically have to fix this problem the printer should automatically recognize the Panda Revo hotend and it should have all the recommended settings already set up.

Seeing how E3D is one half of the creator of it, and it feels like the only reason Bambu lab partnered with them was because they noticed that E3D X BIQU Panda hotend was a great product. So Bambu Lab decided to put a end to it right away. Unless Bambu Lab and BIQU are affilated with each other in some way.

But still there is the fact that I have yet to find any real lists out there of actually recommended settings and set ups to use for the E3D X BIQU Panda Revo Hotend.

Plus the printer doesn’t recognize that Panda Revo and make the adjustments need automatically or allow you manually select or create and save custom hotend settings. But that would still require a list of recommended settings, setups, etc… With Bambu Lab has since they partnered with E3D.

If anyone has a list of recommended settings and set up it would be a big help.

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I don’t believe you really need an HF diamondback. Would also be even more expensive.

The Revo probably will not be recognized given the heater exceeds the recommended wattage Bambu has set for its printers. 60w vs 48w.

Given that I doubt there will be support for it officially.

Edit. The Revo for BL printers is a BTT product that uses E3D revo nozzles. Aside from parts BTT has used, E3D has no affiliation with the BL Revo

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But BL could easily get there hands on the correct settings for this hotend and allow everyone to select it so it runs smoothly with no issues.

Right now I am looking for the suggested settings for TPU, ABS, and PLA Silk. otherwise PLA and PLA+ work fine

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If BL did that then they are affirming the use of something that users are using at their own risk.

BL does not support beating 48w. It can lead to damage they will not cover under warranty and have stated such. To provide settings implies that it’s ok. People are people and they would use that when/if they do screw up a TH board or an AP board.

There are files on MW with settings. Just search revo

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I did.

Given the heat transfer of diamond, the melt zone heats up faster and keeps it’s temp with less work. It’s not as fast as a CHT as far as flow goes but I don’t think a HF is needed.

You only need to set up a nozzle profile. I have 5-6. Not that hard, just select it when you print. Also this shoulld have been a thought when purchasing it.

The Revo probably will not be recognized given the heater exceeds the recommended wattage Bambu has set for its printers. 60w vs 48w.

Given that I doubt there will be support for it officially.

Just an FYI, the E3D nozzles for the Bambu Printers hit the market before the BTT Revo. All BTT really did was take parts off the shelf and mate them to a heatsink that fits the printer, with connectors on the heater. I am pretty sure E3D had little to do with the BTT Revo. If so you can believe BTT would plaster that on the advertising.

Not going to happen. As I said, the 60w heater will keep bambu from officially recognizing it. You’d have better luck having Orca introduce it.

What issues are you having? I ran stock settings as well as some with adjusted flow rates withiout a problem. Both the BTT Revo and the E3D nozzles can work as plug and play. If you wish to adjust any settings then start with the stock settings.

If this helps. I used all those filaments except for silk. I never changed the stock settings and had great prints. TPU needs to be very dry with the Revos, but it does with all nozzles. Same with ABS and ABS-GF. PETG should print just as well. Silk should print like PLA but a little slower, and maybe adjust the heat.

1 Like
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normally when I print with PLA or PLA+ I increase the speed to 37 in the middle of the suggested speed they recommend.

I just printed with PLA silk and I left it with stock settings and I had no problems. But Silk requires hotter temperatures and slower speed.

As for TPU I have people asking me to print them stuff to buy so I don’t want to come out bad. One person wants a part made out of all TPU and other people are asking me for fusion of TPU and either PLA or ABA for parts.

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Well, you could attempt to find the settings yourself.
I mean, it’s not unheard of. :wink:

If you’re assembling the parts after print then none of that would be an issue. Printing PLA and ABS won’t happen because of the temps. Other than color I can’t see needing both ASA and ABS. Again, TPU is so different in temp PLA is the only it could be printed with (talking same time printing), then you have the AMS to deal with.

With whatever you want to dial in start with the stock settings and go from there.

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So I took your advice and just left the settings on default. The TPU print came out alright.

I made sure not to use TPU in my AMS system. Since I have read mostly horror stories about that.

I tried printing something with PLA+ and TPU today it came ok for the most part. But in the area where the TPU and the PLA+ are suppose to fuse together the printer looks like it skipped a few layers.

The only reason I think it might have did that was because I had print with the 2 filaments manually and when I switched them out it might have needed that time to heat up the TPU to use.

If you know what Beyblade is you would understand what I am trying to do. I am trying to print a rubber tip. But just the bottom part needs to be rubber, all the rest of the tip needs to be hard plastic.

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You’re best bet would be to wait until BL releases the AMS ready filament. There are others on the market but I have no idea what they are. With that there’s new settings in the slicer that allow you to interlock different filaments in a print.

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Just got my Revo installed with the HF 0.4 that comes with it. I did a flow test using Sunlu recycled PLA (my mainly used filament since I do tons of prototyping). It’s stated print temps are 195-205 and I usually print at 200.

The 0.4 HF made it to 30ish mm³/s at 200C, 40ish mm³/s at 220C and a crazy 50ish mm³/s at 250C before it went to ■■■■.

That being done, I used 40 mm³/s flow rate for a print I do regularly, and turned up the speeds to 300-350mm/s to let it hit the flow rate cap, my machine is now making noises it never made before and it scares me :rofl:

I think I’ll turn it back down to a “safe” level after but it’s sure cool to see how much material is being put down so quickly.

I also printed a 25% scale version of a keychain I made, which made it 6x6x6mm, using the 0.15 Revo nozzle and it came out amazing, so far I’m loving the Panda Revo upgrade.

I also was having an issue where the connectors for the thermistor and fan were wearing out/getting loose from me swapping the stock nozzles every day, it’s so much nicer now to just be able to unscrew/screw in to swap nozzles now.

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97

After junking (2) Obxidian hotends I will not buy the drop in one piece replacements anymore for the Bambu machines, in the event of a toolhead crash and you bend your hot end its totally destroyed. On a Revo or Mako there is a good chance that just the hotend would need to be replace and your nozzle is still ok. For stock or brass setup it doesn’t really matter but with Obx or Diamondbacks that’s a huge waste.

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Speed is fun for benchmarking just keep in mind there are no filaments designed to flow that fast and keep their mechanical properties if that matters for what you are printing. We don’t print fast for production we just buy more machines to keep up with demand.

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Generally speaking you better designing your mixed material models to physically interlock rather than fusing the materials. (This may not be possible however with certain materials and a single toolhead) TPU for AMS is available now from Bambu.