PETG Print Quality

Hi, I’ve just ordered a A1 Mini as my first home 3D printer (I use CAD and SLS / SLA printers at work, so have some experience of RP manufacture).

I was wondering what people’s experiences of PETG and the mini are? Does it print as well as PLA? I’ll be using it for bits and pieces for a car that will see up to 50deg C, so will mainly be needing temperature tolerance.


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I don’t have a mini, I’m not sure anyone actually has one yet other than YouTubers :smirk: But I don’t see any physical reason why it won’t print PETG as good as an open P1P for example. It should print it without drama.

I printed a couple of test benchys and some other parts in prusament petg on my A1 mini without any problems. So, no worries. I came from a Prusa Mini and I don’t see any difference.

I printed it with this parameter. Just changed the temperature parts - for the rest I am not so skilled and not really know so I leaved default (Generic PETG)

But be aware - the prusament PETG Spools don’t fit on the AMS so I had to print from the single spool holder. The hole of the spool is too small for the AMS.

Just printing PETG ATM

And a surface picture

Printing picture


Oh! I read bad news here, the Prusament 1Kg rolls doesn’t enter on AMS Lite supports? Or only Prusament PETG? Thanks! :+1:

I think the 1KG Prusament spools will fit on the AMS Lite, but the non-Prusament Prusa-branded spools I have will not (e.g., the silver PLA that used to ship with the MK3). The AMS mounting cone arms seem to accommodate about 50mm wide inner diameters on the low end, but the little rubber grips actually bump it up about a millimeter. The Prusa spool almost fits at 50mm ID, but those rubber feet prevent it from going on (you might be able to do it with more pressure, but I didn’t want to risk ripping one of them off). I don’t have any Prusament open, but the ID appears to be about 51.5mm, so in theory they should fit.

I can confirm that the following spools do fit on my AMS Lite:

  • Overture
  • PolyMaker
  • Voxelab
  • Hatchbox
  • Repko3D (some cheap brand I found at a store locally)

Spools I can confirm do not fit:

  • 3D Hero
  • Prusa-branded (non-Prusament)

Checked here:

Smart Materials recycled fit perfect

Filament PM not fit (too little central hole in the spool)

I have 4 Prusament PLA spools & none of them fit. The hit the rubber tabs like you posted above.

I’ve just done my first print with standard 0.2mm layer height settings (0.4 standard nozzle) and have experienced quite significant warping. The part is 175mm long, 30mm wide and 10-20mm thick (15% infill) and it stayed adhered to the build plate but pulled that up off of the bed.

The top surface is flat and the bottom is lifted by about 5mm each end. (Photos taken after I removed the parts from the build plate)

Any advice of what to change to reduce that?

I don’t own an A1 or mini but it looks ike the heat bed isn’t providing a uniform temperature across the whole surface, with the sides/edges being cooler. Or perhaps you have a draft in the room which caused the top layers to cool, causing the part to shrink and lift the edges up. I would try printing the part diagonally on the bed. You’ll have to change the infill degree to 0 or 90, because the part will be at 45 degrees.

I’ve had a relatively poor experience with PETG on the A1 and A1 Mini. I don’t know if it’s the default configuration to run the bed at a lower temp (60°C) for PETG than other machines (e.g., Prusa does 80°C) or a lack of consistency in the bed temperature or just a less grippy surface than the textured PEI sheet from Prusa, but I’ve seen more warping and more of a tendency to release from the bed while printing when using PETG on these machines. The X1C seems to do better, but it’s hard to say whether it’s down to the CoreXY approach, the enclosure, or something else entirely.

I’m going to try a couple of things next time I run a print. One is cranking the bed temp up to max (80). Default was 70deg for the Bambu PETG filament. When I do that I’ll measure it with an IR gun and see what the distribution it like and share the results.

The other thing is I’ll knock up some PETG clips to try and hold the plate to the heat bed. Not sure how that’ll work with the temperature though.

Guys please don’t laugh but I don’t see the button “add a post”
is there anyone that can explain me?

First test complete, bed temp is very even. Within 1 degree all round.

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turn the fan off for all but a touch (~10-20%) on overhangs! extremely short layer times might not look good (i.e. benchy’s smokestack), but, for the ~2"x5"x1" part i bought the printer to help me develop, this change greatly increases layer adhesion and still allows for a great looking part.

reading the bambu wiki “printing tips for transparent petg” was helpful! though i kept the speeds at their defaults cuz i don’t want to increase print time if i can help it. so was seeing that prusa doesn’t recommend cooling for their petg (their printers’ plastic parts are mostly printed from petg).

ap24, you’ll probably see the button now that you’ve used the forum to reply!

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Great, thank you @formulate, I’ll read through the link and try that out.

In the meantime I had bed lifting again on a PLA print this time (A1 Mini Plate Holder). Look like I’ve got some learning and fiddling to do!!

Clean your plate, IPA or soap & water…you can also try some glue stick, Elmer’s Purple works well.

The print is well stuck to the plate, the plate is lifting from the heat bed.

That usually doesn’t happen with PLA, although I have seen some X1C users have this issue.
Anyway, I would try just flipping the plate over…it is 2 sided…I’d still clean the plate & make sure you don’t have any debris on the magnetic bed…JMO.

yeah, fiddle! though, i think the bambu defaults would work well for this print as it doesn’t look like this plate holder needs super-strength.

more than the print settings, the ambient temperature may be clashing with the bed being so hot for 7 hours. i’ve had success heating the room my printer is in to around 33c/90f with a space heater to help slow the cooling when i really needed it (though it’s hard to stay in the room for too long), and i’ve been careful not to place the printer where there is a cool draft from air vents, or me as i walk by and peep every 20 minutes. even just keeping the room comfortably above 70F has helped!