I’d bet with the mass of filament much more than the spool, and with filament being as hygroscopic as it is, most of the moisture came out of the filament but that’s just a guess.
And so much of this filament drying thing depends on ambient conditions which vary widely.
Anyway, sounds like you’re on your way. Good luck! It takes a bit but not so hard to eliminate water issues once you get a handle on them.
I should temper this remark by saying it has been more true than not for spools of PLA. In contrast, I just dried a spool of Overture CoPA, which had been shipped from the factory in a nice foil pouch, and even though it was a cardboard spool, there wasn’t more than 2 grams of moisture in the whole thing. Maybe this is because Overture realizes that it’s particularly hygroscopic and therefore is eager to avoid returns, or maybe the higher price point allows room for better drying at the factory and premium packaging in transit.
I don’t think I’m having the Z axis issue. I’ve read of some having it change quite often or digging into the bed, I’ve not experienced that.
I opened a ticket, it’s a one step a day process. The last thing they suggested to check is as follows:
‘Please try to press the X axis and observe whether the gap of the gap elimination module is large.
If the gap is not large, it is recommended to replace the print head module.
What do you think?’
I’ve replied about exactly how/where I should be pushing on the X axis, and what exactly is the gap elimination module? I asked for a picture of video.
I’ve looked at their wiki, and in the manual, I see nothing referring to ‘gap elimination module’
It’s the weekend so I don’t suppose I’ll see a reply until Monday.
LOL… Another bambulab fanboy in the making… that until he gets to deal with bambu’s (infamous) customer support… Welcome to the “club”, @Shick. Let’s just hope your joyful feeling will last longer than your printer.
It was horrible ove tried everything. With them. And support was kinda done with me i guess as i was eager to fix it and help them.
I could print fobjects… But the first later was always to low and with an object u wont see it.
But I wanted to put out a first later test and have it perfect… It was impossible in any way. New firmware old firmware different settings multiple reset. And then it was either to accept it or return.
The satisfying thing to do. Print a full bed of first latyer test and have it perfect! Sadly i could not have it done. With the anycubic.
“The perfect first layer test” is actually a very smart test to run on a new printer. There’s a good reason why Aurora Test channel runs it on every printer they compare. It alerts you to problems in advance, before you run into them on a big print, and to some degree helps avoid the blob of death if it passes.
Yeah I had a Saturn S, washing and curing station.
Sold it to buy a Neptune 3 Pro. Not sure I did ok on that. Decided FDM would be better for what I needed.
Got a Mono 4. Wanted something smaller. Won’t use it too much. Will work primarily with water washable resin. There have been one or two models I would have printed in resin.