I have read numerous times where PLA in the X1c should be printed with the glass top removed, or a riser to allow airflow, and also the door open. How true is all of this and what are the best ways to avoid a clogged nozzle with PLA in an X1C? Or, does PLA High Speed filament or PLA+ make less chance of an issue? Thoughts on running PLA in the X1c please.
Thanks
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The recommendation to print with the door and lid open primarily concerns heat creep.
I myself go the other way when printing PLA as a warm chamber helps against curling and warping. I usually target 35 to 39°C chamber temp with a closed door and lid.
There are two important exceptions to this that I have found:
- Prints including ironing
- Prints with many large retractions in a short time
Happy printing,
Eno
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Eno,
Thanks for the info. Well I am not a noob to 3D Printing but am new to the X1C so could you tell me exactly how to target the 35 to 39C degree temps (forgot the asci code for degrees). Is it adjusting the fan chamber fan speed? Details please. I had my X1C for a few months or more but just did my first sample print (which failed) in PLA.
Thanks
As previously mentioned, and the obvious, never print with PLA or load PLA immediately after using a high-temperature material. It will for sure clog your extruder.
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You want the chamber to be below around 35 for most PLA, the reason for this is heat creep
The rule of thumb I’ve always gone by is glassing temperature / 2 And it has always served me well for every material
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Thanks for the info. I found more on how to do it in the Wiki. I have just started to use my X1C as all my other printers (except my Prusa) do not have an enclosure.
https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/chamber-temperature
Hi @Voltage ,
It is an experience range dependant on environmental conditions and the features of the part to be printed.
I print PLA fully closed. If, for example in summer, I see temps reachong 39°C, I prop the lid open. In the rare cases where I have many retractions, I prop the lid open. And in the equally rare cases where I use ironing, I remove the lid.
Happy printing,
Eno
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I print simultaneously with PLA and PETG, including with the print bed at PETG temps, and have never had a single nozzle clog with my X1C…
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PETG is not a hight temp material, I’m talking about ASA, ABS, PA, PAHT-CF etc.
I often print mixed PLA and PETG HF with no problems, just as you do.
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ALT+0176 = ° 
Is what I’m using while on a PC.
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Fair enough. I was more thinking about the chamber temperature with PETG bed temps, but definitely not as high as those you’ve mentioned.
One data point: my X1C is in my house (shoved into a closet whose door has been removed) and I always print PLA with the door closed and the glass top in place (with the AMS on top). Since the house is always kept at a comfortable-for-humans temperature, the chamber temperature rarely gets above 33ºC and I have not had any nozzle clogs.
My previous Ender 3 Pro lived in an unconditioned laundry room off the house and in our Sonoran desert summers that room could easily get to 37ºC and the temperatures inside the Creality tent would get to over 40ºF and heat creep clogs were a real problem. Even with the tent flaps open and a cooling fan running I had a number of failed prints and clogs.
On my Macs, I just type to get the º symbol!
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Thanks for the info. My printers are in the house that was converted from a garage to living space. I have a window AC unit for the summer in there. So from all the responses I see that I should be safe and not to worry about it but do a few checks depending on length of print and retractions and ironing. I have never ever used ironing yet but it’s good to know to be careful if and when I do. I have 2 AMS units on my X1C and I have a lot of PLA but I also have a good amount of PLA+ and PETG. Not too many of the high temp stuff but am interested in them.
On the ASCI codes I used to use them a lot but haven’t so much lately. I used them when making web pages in the past.
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It is true that ambient temperatures can contribute to clogs. I initially printed with the door and lid closed, but I achieve significantly better print quality with them open when printing PLA and PETG HF.
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I print at high speeds and in good quality - during the AU summer here.
Temps where printer is can go as high as 40ºC on some days.
Doors closed, lid on, AMS on top.
All my heat creep issues and extruder blocks ended when I installed an Obxidian hotend.
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Well maybe after I use up my original and spare hot ends I might buy an Obxidian hotend but for now I will make due with what I have. That said, there are various files that can be downloaded from Maker World and Printables to hold the top lid and the front door slightly open when you need to add some cooling to the chamber. Does anybody have any experience with these and can recommend some good useful ones?
Thanks
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I just use an empty hotend cardboard box 
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In that case a banana would also work. LOL 
I found this one for the door that I will give a try as it is adjustable. I am still studying the lid options. I like simple things though. I will have them if and when I need them.
And this one for the lid looks worth a try. It’s simple and handy.
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Depends on the ambient temp in the room.
My basement where the printer is, is usually at 18 Celsius. I leave the unit closed so drafts dont lift corners.
If it was summer time and upstairs. Temps can hit 26C in the summer. So open it.
Drafts are a print killer. One of the main reasons I got the X1C is I didn’t have to mess around with a stupid IKEA Lack table enclosure
I also do my best to disable that inside blower that lift the left sides or prints. God, that thing is a print killer as well.
Liquid cool your nozzle and this is not a problem