First my p1p did really great print at 100% speed.
And since about a week i cant get consistent quality anymore.
At 50% speed the print comes out perfect.
But at 100% it leaves all nasty stuff and looks to be under extruding some of the time.
Anyone have any idea what this may cause?
You might look at SoftFeverâs fork of Bambu Studio.
It allows you to run some calibrations not included (yet) in Bambuâs version of Studio.
I was having strange issues with two filaments and when I ran the calibration suite (thereâs 3 tests) and plugged the values into the Filament settings in Studio it totally handled the issues.
Itâs here, look over the Calibration:
And the Main page is here:
Bambu Lab themselves have included some of his code into Studio, so you know youâre good using it. Search it on this Board and youâll see.
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Is this Bambu Filament? What temps are you using?
I have to look into that thank you!
I have the same forn1 filament at the moment.
Its onlyndoing this for black pla. But this filamentbprinted file before.
Ivebprinted 3.5kg andbfrom then it started giving artifacts.
Ive cleaned nozzle wich was suprisingly clean.
Im not using bambu pla.
Regarding temperature ive tried various temperatures for the filament, ranging from 195 upto 220.
All resulting exactly the same.
After the first layer the printer speeds up on 100%
That initial layer is perfect.
The artifacts start from the 2nd layer.
Well, if itâs one filament you have your answer, it probably needs a different flow rate, which is calibrated by the SoftFever tests. 
Good luck!
BTW - you donât âinstallâ SoftFever software, just unzip to where you want and make a shortcut to the main exe file. (Windows) You can also right click and create a Desktop shortcut or pin to Start.
Only still weird the first 3.5kg of filament worked flawless, that kinda puzzles me.
Anyhow if softfever might fix the problem its worth investigating.
Thank you very much for your help!
Almost weekend so time to do some calibrations 
partially clogged nozzle. until you do a cold pull every other troubleshooting measure is a waste of time. however i have no idea how to do one on a Bambu since they donât let you release the tension on the extruder gears
Yeah, I wandered down that thought path too.
They give you the little wire to help clear a clog, but cold pull is the trick.
Havenât dealt with it yet on mine, but Iâd just pull the nozzle and use a heat gun then cool a bit ⊠Yank!
Definitely not as easy as my CR-10S thoâ. {Sigh}
I went with the info that other plastics were OK and the problem seemed to be only this one.
Canât hurt for him to get the flow rate calâd and it will show if itâs clogged during that anyway. 
I did the cold pull before comming to the forum
I used white filament. And to be honest there was not much to see.
Running softfevers cali on the black filament wich gives me trouble as we speak.
Flowrate is done wich brought me from .98 to .93 to get the best result.
Doing the pa now
Edit:
Pressure advance went up from .02 to .042
Only the temp tower left.
Unfortunatly the calibrations yielded the same result at 100% speed.
Im gonna try them again.
Do you have only have trouble on first layer ?
Yours pictures really donât look like it is a calibration problemâŠ
EDIT : except if you use auto-calibration that failed (wich you cannot know as the studio dont give you any information on the auto-calibration result) and get a very high pressure advance
But generally you should have correct result without any calibration, calibration just help to improve print.
Try the cool plate with autocalibration turned on, to be sure.
In the end the calibrations did not give the result.
Still the same things happen on normal speed.
In silent speed the print is perfect.
Aa well ill take it⊠lol
Other filaments work perfect on normal speed.
Yeah, sometimes âslow downâ is the only answer.
I canât tell ya how many times Iâve had to tell people to stop being in such a hurry in 3D printing. An extra 20 mins isnât worth the failures or the cost.
The Pros on here have already learned that lesson. Thatâs what makes the Bambuâs so cool - for most prints itâs a game changer on speed, but there will always be models that the answer is ⊠slower.
This stuff gets complex at times! Glad you got it running, and at least you have some new tools in your bag, eh?
Well its not that models. It looks like the black pla filament of 123-3d just cant be printed at high speeds.
In the photo i use their white at high speed without all the jitter and artifacts.
Im only facing this problem with their black filament at the moment.
The first black batch printed fine, its the 2nd and 3rd batch of their black that dont.
So they might have been contaminated filaments.(ive had thos before with filaments from china where the nozzel would get clogged and unclogged by the unpyre filament on my old prusa i3)
(i have about 15 types of filament here printing all fine except for that 1!)
Speedwise i dont care about time.
50% bambu speed is still twice as fast as my old ender3
And yes thank you very much for the softfever studio! Ive tried it on 2 other filaments wich were good printing filaments.
And this improved their overall quality!
A tool im sure ill be using more often!
Looks like i figured it out.
The calibrations were indeed the problem!
I just forgot to select the newly updated profile when loading my project.
Thank you very much man!
Thatâs great! This is the core of the 3D community, helping each other. This is such a complex subject, part engineering, part chemistry, part art, and sometimes part voodoo. LOL
BTW - donât forget to keep your filaments dry. I canât tell you how many times I started a print, it went to hell and I started thinking all these complex thought to fix then smacked myself in the head and dried my filament. Bam! fixed. Even PLA .
Cheers!
Yeah all my spools are swimming in silica gel hehehe.
Again thank you very much =)
dont rely on the auto calibration.
at best it is ± 10% according to BL the selfâs, its a ballpark estimate for a surgeons value.
same for the auto low calibration for the x1c. its not good. try to make ten calibrations in a row with the same profile and see the variations it will give.
if the filament is very matte and not blue or red it give a fairly accurate value.
currently my goto recipe is pla=1/2, petg=1/3,pa=1/5.
fine tune from there has saved me hundreds of hours of calibration.
found the deviation from the auto caliâs to at best what they claim as the worst.
its all bout the benjaminâs, so they lie as all the other companies.
like their pla silk, default value of 21 cubed? when their own stock hotend craps out at around 13?!? its a bit deceptive, but thats the market todayâŠ
when in doubt check the manufacturers recommendations, not the forums or other ppl like međ
we get it right often, but the maker of the filament should know best how their product should be used compared to us hillbilliesđ
if you run into issues just divide the flow rate and speeds accordingly first. works in 95% of conditions and filaments.
lastly to the late to the party rant, always keep the plate clean as fâŠ
