I recently purchased some Overture Easy Nylon to try out on my X1, but was having problems figuring out any settings that seem to work well with the filament. Has anyone been able to find slicer settings that work well with Overture Easy Nylon? If so please share so I can try them. Most filaments I have been able to figure out, but having issues with this one. So trying to figure out if it is just me or if its the filament. I don’t have much experience with Nylon filaments.
Nylon is very hydroscopic, it absorbs water from the air like a sponge. When “wet”, it will blob and ooze and generally misbehave in a very discouraging way. So if you haven’t dried it, that’s the place to start. 70ºC for 24 hours unless it’s really humid where you are, in which case go 36.
If the filament oozes from the hot nozzle when the printer isn’t actually extruding, for much more than maybe 1/2", that’s a sign the filament needs more drying.
Start with the BBL generic nylon profile. Adjust to use whatever temperature the filament recommends for printing. Run the filament calibrations (pressure advance and flow) after drying. Then print.
Right hand print, Matterhacker Nylon Pro dried 24 hours at 70ºC. Left hand print, Matterhacker Nylon Pro dried for 48 hours. Both were unprintable right from the bag. I had not run the filament calibrations, so PA and flow were the generic defaults. If I’d tuned, the blue print would have been near perfect.
I appreciate the comment, but in this case pretty sure it’s not water-related I understand water with filament. I deal with a lot of filament that is sensitive. I am sorry I should take a picture at the time, but I figured someone might have settings for that filament. It seems it was too fast and not hot enough the way it was forming, but looking nothing like that. I think had too much speed on fans as well why I was asking for someone’s Profile for that sort of Nylon so I could try it?
PS I did just in case dry it in my dryer just in case it came wet, but only for 7 hours with no change. I could check longer, but the packing was well sealed. Ironically I quit buying matter hackers filament for the issue you just mentioned. I have had more than one spool that was not sealed properly and on top of it missing desiccants
7 hours probably wasn’t enough time in the dryer. Unless you have a vacuum dryer, in my opinion anything less than 24 hours isn’t enough time, especially for a full spool… Dry overnight and see if that makes a difference. Just because the filament arrived in a sealed bag doesn’t mean it was dry.
I’ve printed with a ton of filament over the years though and it is not acting like wet filament. Why I am asking for what profile people are you using for Nylon Filament? I will go ahead and dry it but it still doesn’t help with the question of what profile in the slicer is best to use for regular nylon starting off. It seems to have similar settings to ABS If I was to guess which threw me off to before I got a general profile. Keep in mind there is not on BBL a clear profile to pick for that filament is one reason I ask.
Tell us the problem you are having. A basic filament profile may not fix the problem you’re having. Pictures would be great, but starting off with a description of the issue will be fine.
7 hours with a reasonably dry start point should be fine for a short print. Longer prints should be done in a dryer though. It sounds like you understand and know what moisture saturated printing does and looks like, so I won’t harp on that. That said, don’t trust ANYONE’s sealed bag as a guarantee against filament having moisture. Nylon only takes 2-4 hours to get 60% of the water its going to take in. That means, if the filament maker doesn’t warp speed the wrapping of the filament, it will have a significant amount of moisture. And desiccant bags are not good at removing moisture from the filament, so just be aware.
I should have taken a picture, but at time I just sealed it in a vacuum seal and put it away till I Had some time to research. The first time printed it look slightly melted so I turned up the fans big mistake it look even more melted and ran with no fans and extra hot seem to print better. Realized have no clue what I was doing with this filament so would check for a recommended profile for this sort of nylon which I have found no settings for anywhere. I am sure I need to slow it down etc. Looking there site it’s close to Nylon 6. I don’t even know what generic profile BBL has on there to start out as not sure what acronym is close to that. Once I know a profile I will try to print out something simple and if don’t turn out take some pictures and post them up.
Ok, so I would definitely start with the Generic Bambu profile for PA (Generic PA for basic Nylon and Generic PA-CF for Carbon Fiber Nylon). I’m curious which profile you were using? Nylon is pretty picky, and using non-Nylon settings would likely look odd.
Things to know about Nylon:
Prints very hot. Most are in the 260-290 range (emphasis on the 290 area)
Warps very easily. This is why the fan is used sparingly. High bed temps are needed to help it stick and keep the rest of the enclosure at a high temp to avoid warping.
Soaks up moisture quickly. Even after printing, it will soften with moisture, so be aware.
Personally, I love Nylon, but it can be finnicky. I waiting on the PA 6 blend Bambu sells globally to come to the US. PA 6’s are normally a little stronger/stiffer than PA 12’s. Overature’s Nylon is a PA 6 blend and they suggest a low temp, but I would let the Bambu Generic profile temp stand. The BBL printers use a steel nozzle which doesnt transfer heat as well as the industry standard brass. So a slight bump in temps are almost needed. Also note, even higher temps are useful to manage the extra speed BBL printers print at.
Its also possible that you need to sort out the flow factor, but I would suggest getting the base profile close first.
Well the first mistake I made sense your wondering I was using fans at mid and the print looked like PLA with no fans. So I thought turn up fans Which made it look even more melted. So then I tried it with no fans and it looked better. Then I tried it on the hot end of what Overture said and it came out even better. So at that point realizednot only do I not know anything about Nylon, but don’t get how it works so best to ask online instead of having it (even in AMS assuming probably getting some moisture) to get better idea on what I am doing. Thanks that answers my questions I will try an experimental print and see. Oh and at least works great on my other water-sensitive filaments I use vaccuum bags. With ones like Nylon have a moisture card in there as well to make sure no moisture being soaked. Fortunately I live in a pretty dry area. I will update this thread after testing thanks again.
Ok, so got it to print correctly, but seems need really slow it down to come out on this particular filament. The odd part to they say on their site to run the filament at 55c on the bed Which I tried and sticks well for some odd reason. So I question how much % of it is really Nylon 6. See one printed default speed 290C on the left and the one slowed down on the right 280C.
Using a .4 and I had to slow it down to 2mm 3/s volumetric. The one on the left it was at 8. I just never knew nylon would stick well at 55c so made me wonder what else was added to it. Fans I found out from their email I got back as I was testing that they recommend are turned all the way off so I tried that as well on the last 2. Also, told me not to exceed 50mm a second which seems to me a bit slow? I would think it should be possible to get at least 80 with some other Nylons?
Bambu’s PAHT CF prints at 8mm3 so I commonly see speeds around 80mm/sec with a .4 nozzle.
Overture did mention theirs was a “blend”, which means they like modified many parameters to make it print dimensionally stable at low bed temps. This is likely why you are more or less locked down to slower speeds.
If you’re not happy at those low speeds you can run a volumetric speed test and bump the nozzle temp to 300C and see what it accepts. But that will likely need a honed in retraction test right after, to deal with the stringing the high temps create.
I appreciate the input, I have another Nylon coming, I am going to compare it to this one and see what seems best. One plus, it does seem to form pretty solid. In my Printing farm, though, the X1 is my only printer with an enclosure, so I would like to see a little higher speed on the print. It would not be as large of a factor, but I seem to be using the X1 more and more over the other printers on orders now. I need to work on getting a P1P when the budget allows it to help with this as most prints do not require an enclosure. Anyways, I appreciate the help. I do not offer the material to my clients until I am fully comfortable with it and know what it can and cannot do. I recently added ASA which to my surprise BBL ASA prints very well on the X1.
IMO, all of the BBL filaments print extraordinarily well on the base profile (0.4 nozzle). The only exception for me has been the PLA CF. Either my rolls were garbage or they really missed the mark on the profile.
I haven’t opened my BBL ASA yet but hoping its good too.
Well, maybe got a bad batch of the PLA CF or I just got lucky on that. So far the role PLA CF I used has been the best PLA CF I have ever used. It is funny though I got order needs the ASA and having issues with it warping wondering if it got some moisture, but seeing way print is I am first trying a brim around it. Like a dummy, I did not have one.
Interesting. I’m using the same filament. Dried the hell out of it for 24 hours and got two flawless prints back to back. I’m just using the “Generic PA” profile. I did nothing special other than dry it.
Which made it look even more melted. So then I tried it with no fans and it looked better. Then I tried it on the hot end of what Overture said and it came out even better. So at that point realizednot only do I not know anything about Nylon, but don’t get how it works so best to ask online instead of having it (even in AMS assuming probably getting some moisture) to get better idea on what I am doing. Thanks that answers my questions I will try an experimental print and see. Oh and at least works great on my other water-sensitive filaments I use vaccuum bags. With ones like Nylon have a moisture card in there as well to make sure no moisture being soaked. Fortunately I live in a pretty dry area. I will update this thread after testing thanks again.