For example this long black cross. Have you got any idea that I’m doing wrong? The smaller black items print perfect, as well as the long blue items. The filament rolls are new and dry, for all of the colors. Hope to hear from you!
Printer model used: X1C
Slicer settings used: what standard comes with the profile, see link in text.
Type of filament used: new GST3D PLA+ rolls in AMS, all dry (1)
That looks like a partial clog. I’m guessing the filament is PLA? I’d hazard to guess that the partial clog is related to heat creep. Some filaments are more susceptible to it than others and your black filament might need you to pay more attention to temperature. I’d highly suggest making sure you are running with your door open and your top glass propped up. You may need to dial back the temperature for that specific filament to help reduce the potential heat creep.
Is it PETG? That is more prone to heat creep than PLA in my experience. Especially when having taken up some water (which it can do in a matter of days if left outsides).
If it is PETG, best change to a gyroid or honeycomb infill and monotonic line or concentric surfaces.
Thanks for your advice! It’s PLA indeed, sorry I forgot to mention that.
I’d upped the temperature of the nozzle and bed a bit to see what happens, because there were other spaghetti failures with black too. Now reprinting some parts, part by part, on a hair-sprayed heatbed, with the door open and glass top removed. That seems to work too. Thanks!
Correction: I just cancelled the printing, because the item got swung around in the chamber… It didn’t stick to the bed anymore.
Thanks for the infill tips! I’ll write this down for future reference, since I’m using PETG (HF) too indeed, but not in this occasion. This one is PLA, sorry forgot to mention that.
Curling can happen with PLA as well (especially when printing at elevated temps or very small features printed with low layer times). So it could help here a little bit as well.
I think your nozzle may benefit from a cold pull. And perhaps it makes sense to post your settings?
I was looking how to post the settings. Which ones are you specifically looking for when troubleshooting for a beginner?
I thing I have the same problem a.t.m. with TPU (93A) filmament. It looks the same, but I can’t get the settings right (nozzle temp, bed temp, chamber temp, different build plates. etc.) Using the Generic TPU profile and set the volumetric speed down from 3.6 all the way to 2. But still haven’t found a setting that works for my setup.
Going to do a full cleaning, greasing and calibration now for starters.
Then, it really starts to get interesting based on the observed failures.
The pic at the top is rather peculiar as it indicates a much more severe underextrusion when printing the walls than the infill. This would be less surprising though, if you had “Infill Combination” enabled in the Strength tab. In this particular case, it is likely curiosity rather than a root cause though.
Usually, it is quickest to just take screenshots of your filament and slicer settings and paste them straight into the post text. There is also an option in Studio to export settings, but I have not yet needed that.
Frequently, troubleshooting is helped by screenshots of the Filament settings (interesting here due to the likelyhood of heat creep), and the Quality, Strength and Speed settings. Pic’s of the Preview (Flow and Speed) can also help a lot.
The extensive stringing however is a strong indicator that the filament needs a thorough drying. (See point 1) And maybe a look at your nozzle temp and retraction would help.
From the first pic, if you still have that issue, drying the filament will not neccessarily resolve all your troubles as it is possible that you have a partial clog. A cold pull can really help with that.
If atm your nozzle does indeed (still) have a partial clog, printing will be more miss than hit no matter what you do. Until at one point the nozzle will advance to a full clog of course.
Regarding TPU93A, that is an entirely different ball park. Bambu recommends TPU 95A and stiffer from the rear spool, with 75D and stiffener being stated as even working in the AMS (havent tried that yet). Softer, like 93A, may require you to feed directly from the top. There are a few threads here in the forum on how to print with TPU and its pitfalls. Here’s just one example. Still, it’ll suffer from partial clogs even worse than PLA…
