You didn’t give us a whole lot do go on but if I had to hazard a guess, two things come to mind. The first being too low a bed temp and too low a nozzle temp. Don’t go by the defaults, they simply are guidelines and truth be told, I found them all to be out of whack for anything other than PLA. I used my own calibration after way too many failed prints.
Your nozzle looks like it’s oozing but that could be due a number of factors. I like to print my PETG at bed temps between 65-70c and for optically clear PETG, I use nozzle temps around 265. For PC, I used bed temps of 100C
The second thing that comes to mind is that you don’ have any support brims based on the photo. Try including brims and see if that helps. That combined with higher bed temps will definitely keep the model more firmly to the bed.
Just one warning though. I see that you’re using the high temp plate. Just know that when you increase the temp of the plate, PETG and particularly PC will become extra sticky. I would strongly urge you to use glue, not for it’s stickiness, but to act as a release liner between the plate and your model. Otherwise you may damage your plate trying to scrape off the model.
I can tell you that the good old fashioned Aquanet hairspray works wonders and when applied correctly and allowed to dry like spray paint, it will allow for smoothness that the glue sticks don’t give you. I hate the pattern glue stick leave on the print because of inherent uneven application. You can generally get 5-7 prints with just two coatings of hairspray applied 20 minutes apart and allowed to dry thoroughly.
Another tip. Either let the plate cool before attempting to remove, or do what I do, place it in the freezer for 3-5 minutes and the model will pop off much easier.
Edit: I almost forgot, check your chamber temperatures too with an external thermometer with a probe. PETG and PC like a warm chamber around 40c is where I keep mine.
And of course, make sure your fan’s are turned off for the first couple of layers.
Actually it can’t even draw that initial line along the edge of the plate without bits dangling from the nozzle.
I tried with and without glue, but I’m not sure it’s about sticking, it seems to be about it extruding too much filament which then gets dragged around and sticks to the bits its already printed, creating a mess.
This is with clear black PC.
I had similar issues with PETG, although PETG-CF has been working ok.
With PETG I dried it for 8 hours at 65 degrees in an eSun dryer and the first print essentially ended up simply dragging an increasingly large clump of ■■■■ around with little left on the print plate.
With the clear black PC in this photo it is straight out of the packet, so maybe drying is a problem. It is now in the dryer, but the eSun only goes up to 70 degrees vs the 80 degrees recommended, so not sure about that?
I even tried a manual flow calibration but it couldn’t even do this without making a mess.
Ok that does help some. Do you have an IR non-contact thermometer to verify the actually bed temp? If your getting stiction issues with the bed with two unrelated filaments, it can only be something interfering with the adhesion, like contaminants, or lack of heat.
I’m assuming your plate hygiene is up to snuff, is that correct? 99% IPA is my preferred wipe before PC or PETG on the high temp plate but a good dishwashing soap in the sink is also good.
No none of those - but I have been experimenting with various different filaments. For the first few weeks it was PLA Metal mostly, but lately I’ve tried PLA-CF, PETG-CF, PETG, ASA (once), PC.
The last change I made was to replace a part in the AMS (one of the first-stage feeder assemblies), but that was weeks ago and I’ve had many good prints since then.
Yes, I’ve been washing the plate with dishwashing detergent.
In case it is something with the high temperature plate I’m just going back now to try the textured PEI plate, currently perfectly clean and always given good results with PLA.
The only IR non-contact thermometers we have are ones for the kids for when they get ill, not sure if the range they’re designed to measure would be suitable though, I could try I guess!
Well, I supposed they are better than nothing but you really want one of these in your printing tool kit. In fact, these are just way too useful for a whole bunch of jobs around the shop, I have multiple ones and find uses all the time. I even use it when doing maintenance on my car and my BBQ.
I don’t see this a logical explanation from what your photos show. Your filament is not sticking properly based on what you described. The fact that you filament is flowing, albeit not like you want, contraindicates a clogging problem. Clogging issues usually manifest themselves as either a complete clog or voids in the filament flow, what you show here is material coming off the plate.
Yes you are right. I just restarted the same print on the Textured PEI plate and it’s seemingly proceeding without issue.
So I guess I’ve somehow screwed up that other plate. I’ve given it another clean, and also with IPA. I can see quite a lot of markings/lines etc so maybe I’ve ruined it.
No you didn’t ruin it by a long shot. I can see that in the photo. I have plates that are so worn its not funny. Those are the ones I use Aquanet on. It works fantastic.
Here’s a photo of a high temp plate that has been treated with three coats of hairspray. What if I told you that underneath was a very scratched plate? You wouldn’t know that by looking at it. BTW: this was from an optically clear PETG project I did last year.
In some of my PETG-CF tests I had great difficult removing the prints, so possibly this has damaged the plate. And I mean a lot of difficulty, to the extent the plastic was even cracking as I removed it. You can probably see the faint rectangular outlines above.
That plate is totally fine. So long as there is a coating, it still has function. The coating is there to facilitate stiction and ease of release. Remember, you can actually print on bare steel although prying it off would be a real bitch.
Bare in mind that previous printers used only unheated glass plates. We have it easy these days.
It sounds like you’re in the UK. Go down to wherever you might find hair supplies and purchase the cheapest unscented hair spray you can find. The cheapest are usually free of any additives. Here in the states, it’s Aquanet but there are many more brands that are generic. Stay away from the high fashion hairsprays as they put lubricants and agents to give hair sheen. You want the stuff your grandmother or great grandmother used back in the 1960s. They usually have a very high alcohol content so they evaporate quickly which is also why they tend to damage hair.
Just chiming in, are you using a hardened steel nozzle?
CF filaments are abrasive and can ruin regular stainless nozzles, which are the default that the P1 Series ships with afaik. They can also more easily clog up hardened nozzles.