So glad it helped. ; )
Also, another tip…
By default the ironing angle uses a diagonal ironing pattern.
In my experience horizontal/vertical patterns look better to me.
You can ,change from diagonal to h/v by using “45” or “135” in the Quality>Ironing>Ironing angle field (default is -1, which produces the diagonal).
In order to control whether it is horizontal or vertical in your model surface, slice with either the 45 or 135 and look at the layer under the “Preview” tab. If it shows the angle as the opposite of what you want just toggle the 45/135 value.
You can also see the in picture the top shell pattern, before the ironing angle, can be seen faintly… so that is another variable that can be tweaked to improve the final appearance.
If you want to use the h/v ironing in the ironing test 3mf, you will need to change that ironing angle value for each “modifier object” on the plate.
According to the preview, an angle of zero degrees makes it horizontal in my model, so I guess it depends on the model.
Anyway, here are some before and after pics.
The one at the bottom is before is before any calibration or ironing-tuning, and the one at the top after is the latest (but still diagonally ironed - trying horizontal now!).
This thread has been enormously helpful, thank you to all!
Just a point on your excellent ironing model - the only thing I found difficult was comparing adjacent blocks. This is because the ironing angle is alternating and when I was holding it up to the light to try and examine the difference in the texture/shininess etc they look quite different compared to each other simply because of the different angle.
I will be going through this process all over again tomorrow with my newly arrived PC filament as recommended by @Olias so I think with that one I will equalise the angles.
Yes. I have observed that myself. If you turn it 90 degree the light changes on it.
You could compensate for that by setting every other modifier 90 degrees different.
I will probably update my 3MF the next time I go to use it to do just that.
Here are the parameters for glass-like outcomes. Note that one must use the profile on makerworld outlined in this post. Note, to get the glass-like appearance, I had to print it in 50% quiet mode.
