Prints keep getting knocked off plate

[Obecny75]

Very high probability of an ID10T issue here, but I need some suggestions on things to check/possible causes.

Like an idiot, I printed a tall skinny model using gyroid infill, the excessive wiggle/vibration caused the model to fall over resulting in a blob of not quite death.

Removed the blob, everything ok, but because I am who I am, I couldn’t leave well enough alone and ended up breaking the wires going to the hot end heating element. No big deal, I had a spare on hand and I replaced it.

However, now the nozzle is hitting prints pretty consistently, which it was not doing before I replaced the heating element.

I’m not quite sure how I screwed that up seeing as there are only 3 holes for the 3 screws…

I raised the zhop to .5 then to .8, and changed it to normal, then slope, then spiral or whatever it’s called. It definitely hits less than it did, but still hits. The change in zhop type doesn’t seem to have much change.

I just want to go back to the reliable more or less set it and forget it situation I was in beforehand.

How did I manage to make things worse?!

Side note that Im absolutely too lazy to look up, what style zhop is “best”?

A1 using wham bam carbon fiber plate. Using magigio. Filament dried and subsequently printed from within a Sunlu s4.
No specific settings or model seems to be causing this. Happens with at least two different models, with both pla and PETG, and with 3mfs Ive run before and after the part replacement, leading me to believe I absolutely screwed something up.

[Unique_Letterhead]

Has to be machine then…you did the basics so here.

Coffee time, not beer, this guide and full service happy ending the girl

A1 Maintenance Guidelines

Sound like some screws lose or something, maybe behind the hotend heating pad etc… I would just take the time to full service it to be sure then get back to the “what worked before” print and cross your fingers.

And when I say full service I mean it. That allen key both large and small visit EVERY screw on this thing and batten down the hatches, belts as per guide tightened the works all in. It is shocking how fast these printers move and can loosen even what we think is tightest screws!

EDIT: oh and this to clean the plates. All you need then no glues etc needed. dawn cuts the micro films off the plate and makes things stick to it again.

As for gyroid that is one of the best for tall prints to not get it to knock - I used it on all my MH swords I just posted. the zhop trick is good too I ask people to bump it just like you did to 06/08 for safe safe night printing. So I think it’s really a belt or screw loose something of the sort causing whacking. OR maybe colder room? tall print and the plate / draft of air? is cooling the plate to kick the print too early being tall? are you enclosed in a box/tent? room temps are what?

[Obecny75]

I actually had a blob of death on my old A1 because the screws on the back of the hotend were loose, I had no idea at that time those screws even existed. You better believe I made SURE those buggers were tight before I installed this new hot end heating pad.

As for cleaning the plate, I absolutely use dawn! If its good enough to clean oil soaked wildlife, its good enough to get my gross human oils off a build plate. I used to be a glue stick guy, then I moved on to magigoo, I know I dont NEED it, but I like to have (well thought I had) the extra layer of security.

I appreciate the help, I will defineitly go over all the screws and see what I can find. I almost wonder if I didnt run the hot end heating element wires correctly, and its hanging down at the same height as the nozzle causing it to rub or something.

Then again I might go full nuclear and wrap things up and claim warranty at micro center…but I would prefer to not have to do that…yet

[user_3613079233]

Good to see you have fixed yours post blob blab. Im almost the in the sane circumstance… after a BOD my prints randomdly fail : hotend drops into a print layer, starts missing the plate, claims cutter not working ( it is) and belt loose ( I dont see it) ?? I tighten screws, recalibrate and stair at it harshly and it works fpr a few more prints until it doesnt… all this after replacing the hotend sensor after a BOD extraction. If I hit it hard, might it behave?
BOBablob

[Obecny75]

Sadly, it’s not actually fixed. Just fixed enough to frustrate me even more!

My current print…

[Peter_b]

+1 scrub after each print with ABS with smooth plate or model might Elvis.

[Obecny75]

what is ABS? I need several more characters to be able to submit this reply but at this point i dont know whatelse to say

[Obecny75]

This is a follow up post to my previous post about my printer not working post BOD.

Ive checked every screw and every belt, I’ve washed the plate, I’ve used magigoo, I’ve NOT used magigoo, I’ve changed zhop height, I’ve changed zhop type, I’ve tried PLA and PETG, I’ve tried different nozzles, I’ve dried the filaments, I’ve tried saying nice things to the printer, I’ve tried being mean to the printer, nothing seems to help I haven’t had a fully successful print since before the BOD.

The only thing I have noticed is that parts on the front half of the build plate print fully probably 80% of the time, parts on the back half fail 90% of the time. Usually at about the 20% mark.

The photo shows a failed fidget spinner, next to a failed Stanley Cup. The Stanley Cup is more or less where it was placed on plate in Bambu Studio, the blue fidget was originally in the front right corner of the plate.

That photo shows fidgets that were placed on the back half of the plate during various prints and all failed about the same point.

I am absoutely at my wits end here.
Cup and Spinners.3mf (2.2 MB)

I made a new post, which i realized I should probably have just posted this here

[Obecny75]

This is a follow up post to my previous post about my printer not working post BOD.

Ive checked every screw and every belt, I’ve washed the plate, I’ve used magigoo, I’ve NOT used magigoo, I’ve changed zhop height, I’ve changed zhop type, I’ve tried PLA and PETG, I’ve tried different nozzles, I’ve dried the filaments, I’ve tried saying nice things to the printer, I’ve tried being mean to the printer, nothing seems to help I haven’t had a fully successful print since before the BOD.

The only thing I have noticed is that parts on the front half of the build plate print fully probably 80% of the time, parts on the back half fail 90% of the time. Usually at about the 20% mark.

The photo shows a failed fidget spinner, next to a failed Stanley Cup. The Stanley Cup is more or less where it was placed on plate in Bambu Studio, the blue fidget was originally in the front right corner of the plate.

That photo shows fidgets that were placed on the back half of the plate during various prints and all failed about the same point.

I am absoutely at my wits end here.
Cup and Spinners.3mf (2.2 MB)

[Obecny75]

Hello fine people of the BambuLab community!

I have printed this file many times in PLA, but when I print it in PETG it prints terribly. The surface looks fine, but its prints WAY too loose, as in the rings of the fidget spinner dont spin and with almost no effort at all will all come apart.

Any idea why, and how do I get that to not do that?

Using a bambu lab A1 using various types of PETG filament, they have all been properly dried.

I have included the 3mf in question

Spinners.3mf (610.1 KB)

[Olias]

You will want to modify your X-Y hole and X-Y contour compensation.

Positive numbers for the hole make the hole larger. Negative numbers make the hole smaller. Same goes for contour. Larger number grow the outside of an object and negative shrink. This will help you tighten up the gaps between the rings.

Here is an exaggerated slice which is what you want to experiment with.

[Obecny75]

Well in a weird twist…changing absolutely nothing, except filament…from Flashforge PETG high speed blue to IEMEI (or similar collection of random letters) PETG translucent gradient blue to green, it printed so tight I could barely rotate the rings by hand, much less actually spin them normally.

[Obecny75]

So close yet so far away.

Tried switching plates again…at least this one made it MOST of the way…

[plad452]

If you need to reach the character limit, enclose text in a <>. So like an html code.

[Obecny75]

Add that to the list of helpful things that I will absolutely not remember the second I finish this reply.

You say html code as if I have any idea how to do do that.

Given I know nothing about you, your skills, hobbies, interests etc…i get the feeling you telling me how to do something and likening it to something else I know nothing about, is how the vast majority of people feel when I associate pretty much anything in life to vehicles…

But I’m general, thanks for the tip

[plad452]

I was using an analogy, because I only know that math and html code uses angled brackets.

[Locoman]

You are not alone here. I too appreciate the help from the more experienced printers, but usually don’t have a clue how to do what they are suggesting me to do. Yet I still need and want their help. Hope you can get your issue solved.

[Obecny75]

Ugh I feel you.

Oh have you calibrated your hooselshifter? I’m sorry my what now?

Oh have you held a seance to Omar the 3d print wizard from plaland? The whose it and what now?

Please explain these things like I’m 5.

I feel bad that I don’t know these things, but at the same time, how do I know something if someone doesn’t explain it first? (Reading the wiki is helpful, but time consuming. I need. Cliffs note version)

[Obecny75]

I get that, it’s just funny to feel a way I assume I make people feel all the time.

It’s that whole shoe on the other foot thing.

[plad452]

I also try to explain stuff as simple as possible to avoid confusion. I have been where you’re at and I was bamboozled by “change the z-offeset to approximately 22223.4.2…234.23423242342 and buy the hotend nozzle extruder gear belts pack” Like what? I might as well go see a wizard