Problem with warping ABS

[PossiblyPrinting]

Hello there,
i recently had some issues with printing ABS.
I used the Bambu ABS with the Bambu Profile (no settings changed)

The print was perfect for about 3/4. No issues, no warping at all.
But at the last 1/4 of the print. My parts started to warp on one end.
The other end was still holding perfectly fine to the Printbed (tried Textured Printbed and Engineering Plate - same issue).

Its kinda of annoying because every time its about 200g of filament for the trashcan.

Anyone able to help me here?

[3DTech]

Can you post a photo of your part sliced ?

I print long ASA parts on the Bambu using the WhamBam bed plate and NANO POLYMER ADHESIVE

ABS is like a rubber band when it shrinks so you have to have it pin down real good. Sometimes I will add anchors to my cad file then cut them off.

Also look at your fan speed preview screen on your part you might have too much cooling.

Keep us updated

[PossiblyPrinting]

Thank you, i will check after work and let you know

[PEZ3D]

I been having ABS warping issues on my X1C as well. I have tried the Engineering plate, and the PEI textured plates, I have tried glue stick, hairspray, clean surface with alcohol, but nothing works. It happens with or without cooling, brim or no brim, exhaust fan on or off. I am printing with all brand new rolls of Bumat ABS. I also tried Hatchbox ABS, but I get the same results.

[3DTech]

I don’t print with ABS only ASA but you can try this with your abs filaments and see if it helps you out.

Set your brim to 0.02 it will bond to your part some but you can peel it off or cut it off with a box cutter.

Set your bed from 105c to 110c, go high then see if you can drop down to 105c

The bed plates wash them in warm water with dish soap. Take a scotch brite pad and give it a light rub then add your adhesive.

If you pre warm up your chamber before you print it will help also.

You can also add this to your X1 start machine G-code to help warm the chamber up.

;Put it below this G29.1 Z{+0.0} ;reset z offset / clear z-trim value

;===== HEAT SOAK ====================
{if (filament_type[initial_tool]==“ABS”) || (filament_type[initial_tool]==“ASA”) || (filament_type[initial_tool]==“PA-CF”) || (filament_type[initial_tool]==“PA”) || (filament_type[initial_tool]==“PC”)}
M140 S110 ; set bed temp at 110c
M104 S125
G28
G0 Z150 F2000
M106 P2 S255 ; turn ON aux fan at full speed
M106 P3 S0 ; turn OFF chamber fan
G4 S90 ; wait 90 seconds
G4 S90 ; wait 90 seconds
G4 S90 ; wait 90 seconds
M106 P2 S0 ; turn OFF aux fan
{endif}

;===== heatbed preheat ===============

Tip: Infill % / pattern type / top and bottom layers can affect part warping with these filaments also.

Keep us update I hope this gets both of you a solution

[PossiblyPrinting]

Where to put this code?
Can only find the place for the filament specific g-code

Thanks

[3DTech]

Where to put this code?

The Start G-code you can also add or remove filaments form the list or change the heat soak bed temp.

Have a good one

[PEZ3D]

I finally got a successful ABS print to stay stuck the whole time without a brim. What I did was put the PEI plate in warm water and I let it soak for about 10 min, then I took some dish washing soap and a soft brush to scrub all the glue or hairspray residue off that the rubbing alcohol missed. Once it was dry, I put it in the printer and set bed temp to 100c, and thats it. Seems like glue stick and hairspray actually makes it worse for ABS. Normally I need hairspray for pla and petg, but ABS just wasn’t having it.

[petrus_muc]

Hallo Forum,

ich hatte mit den gleichen Problemen zu kämpfen, Warping, Risse im Bauteil, Ablösen von der Build-Plattform, das ganze bei großen und kleinen Bauteilen. Die ganze Spielerei mit Temperatur und Geschwindigkeit hat nicht viel bis nix gebracht. Mir das Druckbett mit Kleber vollschmieren wollte ich nicht; die Sauerei nach dem Druck wieder zu entfernen war mir zu mühsam.

Ich habe einen Flashforge Adventurer 3 Drucker der zum Glück schon eingehaust ist, sodaß Zugluft keine (große) Rolle spielt.

Ich drucke auf einer Dauerdruckplatte.

Bei der Suche nach Lösungen bin ich auf ein Spray gestoßen und war begeistert ! Name: 3DLAC

• Bauteil bleibt auf dem Druckbett haften

• nach Fertigstellung löst es sich leicht vom Druckbett (aber nur, wenn dieses vollständig erkaltet ist !!)

• Reinigung des Druckbettes mit Wasser (ich verwende Isopropanol)

Meine Einstellungen :

Nozzle: 240°

Druckbett: 90°

Geschwindigkeit: 60 mm/min

Infill: 30% Wabenmuster

Lüfter: alle immer aus

Nur eine Schicht Top und Bottom

Ich hoffe daß ich vielen anderen 3D Druckern mit diesem Tipp helfen konnte.

LG

Peter

[petrus_muc]

Sorry girls and gents, I missed the language ! Here’s the posting again in correct language.

hello forum,

I was struggling with the same issues, warping, cracks in the part, detaching from the build platform, large and small parts. The whole gimmick with temperature and speed did more or less nothing good. I didn’t want to smear the print bed with glue; removing the mess after printing was too much trouble for me.

I have a Flashforge Adventurer 3 printer, which fortunately is already encased, so drafts don’t play a (big) role.

I print on a permanent printing plate.

When I was looking for a solution, I came across a spray and I was thrilled! Name: 3DLAC

Component sticks to the print bed

after completion it easily detaches from the print bed (but only if it has completely cooled down !!)

Cleaning the print bed with water (I use isopropanol)

My settings :

Nozzle: 240°

Print bed: 90°

Speed: 60mm/min

Infill: 30% honeycomb

Fan: all always off

Just one layer top and bottom

I hope that I could help many other 3D printers with this tip.

LG

Peter

[ahmetcemturan]

Are You all sure that teh temperature shown (for the Bed) is the actual temperature. I measured and it was 20c below teh shown value (X1E)

[maximit]

Ill repost this again:

What I do for successful large ABS/ASA prints:

1. 110 bed temp (100 for P1S, the max)
2. set it to 110 and let it warm up for 15 min before printing to heat up the chamber
3. Set the chamber fan to 0 to prevent cold air from being sucked it
4. use SMOOTH PEI sheet. ABS/ASA sticks better to smooth then textured PEI. Textured PEI was made for better releasing not for better adhesion. Alternatively use the engineering plate and NANO plate adhesive it gets stronger with heat.
5. use bed clamps as large ABS prints can warp and lift.
6. place the prints as far back on the print plate as possible as thats the place with most stable temperature
7. Use scotch tape to seal up the front of the printer along the door seams as well as the poop chute (I actually have bambu drawers that seal the poop chute with a down pipe as well as magnetic covers for the belts tensioners) to prevent cold air from entering the chamber
8. whatever you do DO NOT OPEN the front door during printing. After its done, let it sit and cool naturally for 20 min or longer so it does not get a shock from the cold air.

[gomezgames2b]

@maximit

Use scotch tape to seal up the front of the printer along the door seams

I made this door seal because I got tired of replacing tape: Bambu Printer Door Seal .

I closed up all the other holes I could find, but closing the open gap on the left side of the door seemed to make the biggest difference.

[maximit]

Awesome will try it. I tried the TPU one before and it was bad.

[george.drapac]

Thanks for re-posting this !! With the steps you’ve taken, do you LEAVE the chamber fan off? Also, as I’m new to Bambu (not 3D) which fans should I be controlling ? There are 3, correct?
Thanks,
George Drapac

[gomezgames2b]

@maximit

I tried the TPU one before and it was bad

I made some attempts too. All I figured out was that I know more about 3D CAD than I do about printing TPU.

Compared to that, the Bambu Printer Door Seal was relatively easy.

[maximit]

yes chamber fan off completely. AUX is off by default, and the cooling fan will turn on as needed.

[maximit]

whats are the specs for the magnets? width?

[gomezgames2b]

Apologies for not including that initially.
I have updated the documentation to include the specs.

The big magnets are 1/8" or 3mm thick.
The small magnet thickness isn’t all that critical.
I used the ones with the highest magnetism rating (gauss).

[Tucker]

Hello,
Unfortunately it can no longer slice. Unfortunately it can no longer slice. Always get this error message.

machine_start_gcode Parsing error at line 23: Not a variable name
{if (filament_type[initial_tool]==“ABS”) || (filament_type[initial_tool]==“ASA”) || }