A longer 4 pin bus cable would be a nice addition to Bambu’s accessory lineup. Based on models posted online, there are several of us that prefer to mount our AMS hubs to something other than the back of the printer. For me, I keep my Bambu printers in a cabinet, so it was a pain to access the hub for maintenance. I now have the hubs mounted on the cabinet itself, but it’s still not ideal, as the bus cable is only 260mm long. Please create a longer cable.
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Make them too long and the low voltages they carry won’t make it to the last AMS
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Then don’t make them “too long.”
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What I’m getting at and you can use pinout jumpers or alligator clips to verify, sparky, is that even adding 4 more inches degrades the signal enough that the last AMS doesn’t function or gives error codes, the system doesn’t boost the HiLo on the cam header every AMS
2451320410 Molex | Cable Assemblies | DigiKey looks as if it’s a 1M version, there are longer ones listed.
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How do I upvote this? I need a longer cable as well, I’d prefer an extension.
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Did you read the thread? The link to a longer cable from Digikey is the solution to this thread and is also posted just above your reply.
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I did read the thread. I want a solution provided by Bambu Labs.
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FYI this is marked as solved but per another customer it doesn’t seem as though the AMS lite is using the standard pinouts.
Hi everyone, I got these and first measured the pins and noticed that 2 pins were the wrong way round. I re-soldered the cable so that the pins were the same as the original cable.
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@Ceppetoswerkstatt Oh 
I got a 2m cable some time ago that didn’t work at all (not even to the first AMS) - could have been this issue also. Thanks for sharing!
I got my P1 printers in cabinets also and suffering from the dreaded “assist motor overloaded” issue, which I think will be alleviated by a changed position of the hub.
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I have removed all quick couplings, from the AMS it goes directly to the HUB without any interruption and from there directly to the printer head. I also use an empty input from the HUB to print directly from my Fsunlu S2. I also installed a lid riser with LED lighting to increase coverage.
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I dig those desiccant towers in the corner, I’ve always wanted to occupy that awkward remaining space with more desiccant. I haven’t seen towers for the inside corners, nice!
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These are my Aqara humidity sensors in the corner of my AMS system but I also saw some on Maker World and will print them out too. I also have a container with desiccant in my spools that also serves as a weight.
@davearrrrr I marked the thread as solved because the original question, which was whether the Bambu cable was a Molex standard cable, was actually solved, as in “an answer was found”. Unfortunately:
a) the answer to the question is that it was not standard use of the Molex
b) BL support did not even acknowledge my question. I had to find on my own (not surprisingly).
I hope this clarifies the “solved” tag
EDIT: Also a “by the way”: my thread was about the use of the cable on the AMS Lite and A1 Mini.
Just wanted to add that this Molex cable is also available at Mouser.com for a couple dollars cheaper. And might have a quicker ship time. Just ordered at 4:29pm CST time and it will ship today.
245132-0410 Molex | Mouser
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This Molex cable is not working for me. I have a single AMS connected to my printer. When I plug the new Molex cable in the AMS LED’s light up like normal then flash red. Then double flashing red. Same result with both my AMS units. Connected one at a time. Single AMS setup.
I purchased an extra 4 pin cable as a spare, I cut the original cable and extended it by about 12 inches with an old Cat-5 Ethernet cable. The Cat-5 cable has 8 wires in 4 twisted pairs so I just soldered each of the 4 wires in the Bambu cable to a twisted pair in the Ethernet cable. I did that at each end along with some shrink tubing and I have a longer 4 pin cable and I have much more flexibility in placing my buffer or hub. I think the bambu wires inside the cable were red, Black, Purple and White.
Two of the pins in the cable are reversed so if using a different cable check the continuity from end to end pin by pin and make sure that it’s the same with the new cable as the original.
