What do you have to set on the P1P so that you no longer have stringing IN the parts?
is there a ready made config somewhere?
Everywhere you hear that you should print without retract, Z hop and extremely slow 20mm/s
my parts look good from the outside but inside there is always this stringing salad.
I have tried everything. even with wip everything looks like ■■■■.
what is the secret?
Foaming lightweight PLA will ALWAYS string. Best to design models that use vase mode or don’t lift off the print surface. Unfortunately, that’s just a byproduct of printing that filament type. Retraction and Z hop will basically string every time, that’s why the vase mode type designs work great. Some RC aircraft models are designed specifically to mitigate this and keep the print head on the model the whole time.
I’m sure there are some things you can do to help, but I think it would be wrong to suggest you can fix this with a particular setup.
thanks for the info.
I always thought I was too stupid, but I’m starting to think that the other people always “cleaned” the parts before they took photos.
the only solution would be an option in the slicer which it only ever finds and drives without extruding…
or, of course, a line that takes the “return path” into account. but you can’t get that built into existing STL files afterwards.
I probably shouldn’t be so aggressive in saying its “impossible” to get rid of the stringing, but I think it’s clear its very prevalent in this type of filament.
Things I’d try first, print some calibration tools like a max flow rate calibration print to see where the limit is for speed, and a retraction and temperature tower to see where your best retraction and temp settings are. You may have to make your own calibration tests using Bambu Studio or Orca Slicer and their modifiers. But I’d start with the basic max flow rate test. And then see where the temp and retraction towers lead you.
Maybe you can get it to a level that is acceptable to you.
