I need to do a heatbed swap and the glass door is really in the way making it more difficult. Checking the Wikis there is no mention of the door as the Wikis are a mix of P1P and P1S troubleshooting.
Do you guys remove the door when working on the P1S or not? According to the Wiki there is a double sided tape on it requiring heating or scraping to remove. This doesn’t sound like I can restore in a nice way. Also, I can’t see where the tape is
Maybe this can help somewhat:
So there is no other solution than removing the tape? Can’t remove the hinges from the frame or something?
I rather don’t play around with heating up the tape and removing. I only have two hands not risking dropping the glass door
I have no experience with the P1 myself. I just thought the thread may give you additional insights and show some users that have done it.
P1S uses the same heat bed and door/hinge arrangement as my X1C.
I have replaced my heat bed. Removing the door would NOT have made any part of that job easier.
When you get instructions like “Put the printer on its right side, and raise the heat bed to about 2/3 of the full distance by pulling the Z-axis belt.” then depending on how you interpret that, you get the door down infront of you or dangling down on your head 
Don’t consider that a good way of working with the printer when the door is in the way.
Seeing all the warnings that the door shatters when mishandled I tend to try not get into trouble.
But sure, I can manage without removing the door.
Left side is easier, though it really does not matter. You could just tip it back, reach underneath to pull the belt, then sit it upright.
I can manage, but I’m not fond of the construction and quality and the instructions.
On top of that I don’t have a proper workbench which makes me cranky 
To be honest, I was expecting the door to come off very easily and that I could move the hinges to the right side as I wanted to place the printer in a location where it makes it difficult opening the door as it is mounted right now.
I guess this depends on the age of your printer. My latest X1C is 5 months old and doesn’t have the tape on the door. Removing it is simply removing the 4 screws.
Finally have time to replace the heatbed.
After tinkering with the back plate, chute, cables etc. you need to remove the Ground cable.
In order to remove that one, you need to remove the right panel. 20 screws holds that panel in place. And removing the fan might be needed as well.
However, in order to remove the right panel you have to remove the front upper panel. But first you need to remove the display, SD card, WiFi antenna which is GLUED and taped to the front panel, then finish with three screws.
The designer should get a medal
In total 24 screws, display and glued parts in order to remove ONE ground cable. Why is that cable not moved to somewhere a bit more accessible and only requiring one screw? Haven’t checked but could there be a simpler way of grounding this machine or is this the best option?
Anyway, stripped down everything and removed the heatbed and taking a cookie brake and to vent
Will start assembling shortly and after that I will pray that it works 
You can remove the door without heat. Heat may make it easier, but I did it without. You need a chisel-tipped scraper and gently, slowly pry the steel hinge thing away from the glass. It’s only held on by double-sided tape, not glue.
Thanks for the info. I skipped removing the door. Main reason for wanting to remove it was not to break it during repairs.
After removing the right panel and putting it back I guess removing the door would feel like a piece of cake in comparison 
