I Have two screws that are stuck in the back plate to install the second fan. I cant open it. Any solutions?
take a genuine hex key, I found myself with the same issue because of the crappy hex key they provided. Once I took “real” hex key it worked fine. Let me guess, both screws are the outer screws on the bottom?
Cheers from switzerland
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Is it the screw at the bottom right corner ? I hat this one stuck too when I wanted to attach the fan to the main board. My solution: if it’s just one screw and one that is on the edge, turn the plate around that screw. This worked for me, I did not fix the screw but managed to attach the fan to the board.
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It is one in the top center and one on the bottom right. I ended up taking some pliers and connecting the fan from the tiny holes. I got it to work, but I am afraid that in the future I need to open that plate again. Btw. I try with all type of hex key, but I think it was too late. Thanks anyways
An old BattleBot trick you might try is to use a dremel tool and cut a slot through the screw head. Then use a slot screwdriver to remove the screw. This assumes you have enough access to get the dremel cutting wheel to the screw head.
Some of the screws are incredibly tight. Despite being very careful, I ended up having to drill out 2 screws (using easy outs) when I was attaching enclosure pieces, because the hex stripped very easily.
Happened to me on two screws. Very bad fabrication steps. The threads on the frame were tapped badly as well had to put screws in first then attach the part after to prevent binding, I’ll try the easy out method hopefully Lowe’s has one that size
This is a common problem with fasteners that are installed by hand and not using a torque limiting driver. I have a couple bad one too. When you look at the screws you see the shafts are damaged by the high torque. I guess they could be using torque drivers that are set too high, or a robot with the same over torque settings.
Not sure if you have an issue with removal, if a good wrench does not work, you may need a sharp set of side cutters and work it under the head and rotate the screw with the cutter.
Hello Gus, by any chance do you know the measurements of the back cover screws on the P1P?
Thanks.
I will take a look. There are two types of back screws (not counting the longer threaded one for the filament holder).
Both measure to be a M3, (hex key or Allen wrench), some sort of pan head or flat head.
M3X.05, the other is more like a sheet metal thread M3X1.2, and it would be best to get the length from one of you parts (5-6 mm long).
I had to inspect the holes to find the places for the M3X.05, not sure if these were really part of the machine design or just a gift of manufacturing. As I said before I could tell they were over torqued.
I deal with these in one of 2 ways
Use cable cutters to grab on to the bolt and turn it enough to loosen it
Or use a file/dremel tool to cut a straight line through the screw and use a flat screw driver to turn it.
One of these 2 methods have saved me numerous times for both big and very small screws down to m1/p1