Should I return my new 0.4mm ObXidian P1S nozzle?

I was gifted :santa_claus:t3: a Bambu Lab 0.4mm ObXidian High Flow nozzle, and am trying to figure out whether to put it to use, or return it and try to get a 0.6 version.

Bambu is out of stock with no ETA on the 0.6 for P1 series. I found it listed on Amazon, but Amazon is so overrun with counterfeits that it’s a bit of a cr**shoot if I get the real thing.

I mostly print PETG and make functional prints, though I do some PLA for occasional decorative or novelty prints. I am using the BL 0.4mm hardened steel nozzle. It works okay but I want stronger prints; faster is a bonus but not top priority.

I’ve read a bunch of posts here and can’t figure out whether 0.4mm ObXidian is worth using, or should I get a 0.6 instead.

Here’s what I’ve read so far, so you can assume if it’s here I read it already:

If you were in my shoes, would you use the 0.4mm ObXidian, or put in extra effort to find a legitimately-sourced 0.6mm?

Thanks for any thoughts!

The nice thing is that you can analyze for this in Bambu Studio without taking the ObXidian out of the box. Slice a model that’s typical for you with the settings set to regular nozzle and then look at the preview and set the tab to flow rate and look for what the max flow rate is. Then change the settings to match the ObXidian and check to see if the flow rate (and then speed) is actually different.
What I’ve seen is that for a 0.4mm nozzle the limiting factor on speed probably isn’t the flow rate, that becomes an issue only with larger nozzles.

1 Like

In my opinion there is no point in a 0,6mm nozzle except for filament that contains particles.

I have the 0,4mm Obxidian and it achieves flow rates in excess of 45mm³/s. you don’t need a 0,6mm nozzle to print wider lines. I regularly print 0,8mm line width with the 0,4mm nozzle. But you can still print 0,4mm lines for fine details. e.g. use 0,4mm for outer walls and 0,6 or 0,8 mm for inner walls, solid infill etc.

I think what really limits flow rate is length and type (standard vs HF) of meltzone and power of heater. A bigger orifice only helps when the meltzone is insufficient. Then through a bigger orifice, insufficiently melted filament can be pushed easier.

It actually needs big parts to really make use of higher flow. But even at default settings, layer adhesion is much better than the stock nozzle.

2 Likes

Great info from you both! I’ll stick with the one I have and give it a spin! Errr. Print.

really really appreciate it :slight_smile:

Keep it IMO. On the p1 its such an insurmountable task to change nozzles (lol jk - but am I?) that 0.4 HF is a good best-of-both-worlds. Make a normal speed filament profile and then a superduper one to break out for the big models.

1 Like

I have always used them. That or a diamondback. I even purchased one for the H2. I can’t add to what’s been said other than the customer service is great. We have 2 P1S with the HF and the H2S has a HF, all .4.

Edit, you now have profiles built into Studio for those as well. They dont’ specify E3D nozzles specifically but they are useful.

1 Like