But seriously though. There’s not much point in trying to tune settings if the filament has an unknown moisture content. Quite a lot can be rather moist. Most of the time, it has spent weeks at sea and been sitting in warehouses the world over. So it does save a lot of time to make drying a first troubleshooting measure.
In all seriousness though, i live on an island but i assure you im not keeping it in the sea. And besides, its pla. Basic… with more infill printed fine… and my settings are probably off.
Rheology and material properties can be affected by very small amounts. The smaller the molecular inclusions, the less is needed to be noticeable.
As for that time sitting on a shelf, that does not mean much. I have printed PLA that has been sitting in a cupboard for 2 years without issues while other PLA curled, warped and oozed fresh from the bag. But 0,7% does appear quite high. When working with Nanoparticles, we saw changes from as little as 0,03%. Different resin, different particles, different process, but just because a number appears small does not mean that its effect is small
Of course, moist filament can still be printed, but quality may vary. When optimizing or just troubleshooting, it is important to rule out the easy and most basic problems just to ensure that they are eliminated. Overall, it saves a lot of time and effort.
This may help: Filament Drying Recommendations | Bambu Lab Wiki
Of course, it is entirely up to you if you want to do this very easy and straightforward fault elimination procedure. It would also give you a filament whose settings can be reliably tuned to a recoverable degree.
And of course it may just be a bad roll. Stranger things have happened.
wah… m really a very stupid 3d printing noob haha… guess have to learn how to read… i did not even notice about the print speed written on the right side of where the working temperature was written. i could have evaded some printing problems.