I’ve been following the guidance in this thread but am having some very weird issues with petg. I get horrible steps in sharp edges/ corners and sometimes sharp edges become very rounded. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Usually rounded corners means you need to run input shaping, or you are going way to fast. I would start by running all the auto diagnostics on your machine. Then try it again. If it still does it, then try slowing down your print speeds by at least half.
What speed are you currently using?
on the advice of someone else, i dried the filament and re-tested the k-value (it’s bambu basic). Fixed the issue straight away. A new one for me, i’ve never known wet petg ,cause geometry errors (i did slow the speeds right down to similar to what my Ender printers do with no improvement). Running pretty much the stock profile on ORCA slicer now and it’s printing beautifully
Juts want to +1 this thread – I got a X1C for the Holidays and had been cranking through PETG transparent and CF colors for a while. When this last firmware update hit, I started to get under-extrusion on all my PETG prints; almost all the first-layers have gaps and there’s terrible stranding and clumping on the nozzle. Nothing else changed except the update.
I did a reset to factory and a recalibrate after the update, got it all clean and etc but still had issues. The tips here help – especially when it comes to the use of the fans in the X1C and the temperature settings for the bed and hotend.
I’m still having issues… ordered some cleaning filament as maybe I’ve run too much CF through and need to give the guts a better cleaning than a standard de-clog will do.
Regardless I hope Bambu pays attention because I think their PETG filament is pretty great stuff but the default profiles might need some attention?
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Can you share your PETG profiles?
If you process PETG too fast and too cold, the layers will not hold well and the printed part will be fragile. Work at low speeds for small parts up to 20mm/s and larger parts up to 90mm/s. 255°C is a suitable temperature for normal PETG (generic).
Best regards!
Because if the slicer is extruding the wrong volume of filament per volume of model , then changing layer height will not help because the ratio used to calculate extrusion is still wrong.
Thank you for posting your original settings and your follow app. Even using bamboo lab PETG and their settings were not working for me, but once I put in your settings and then adjusted for the follow-up settings. My prints have been turning out excellent!
Do the settings which work at 0.4mm nozzle and 0.2mm layer height work just as well with a 0.6mm nozzle and 0.3mm layer height? Or is it back to square one on the quest for perfect settings?
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Nice! This finally Fixed most of the issues I can see so far. I took my Max Vol Speed from 13 to 10! Big difference, thank you.
Thank you very much for this! After running every calibration option in Orca Slicer to dial in my first ever spool of PETG (Overture), and running the nozzle at 265 and bed at 80, the best benchy I could get was a complete mess (I’d upload a photo, but the forum won’t let me).
I set the fans per your point 3, and the exhaust fan to 100% for printing and 70% for completion (and didn’t modify the GCode), and was able to print a benchy as good as any I’ve ever got with PLA, getting identical results with the door open or shut. The lid is always on, as I have an AMS on it.
Thank you!
@hant.szabi Thank you for sharing your settings. I just used them successfully with SUNLU PETG on my A1 Mini. I had been struggling with this filament for some time and using your settings gave me excellent results on my parts.
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I’d like to add that I got a lot from this thread - PET-G seemed ok a year ago, but has been rough lately.
A combination of these settings and a new nozzle helped. I still finish every hour+ pet-g print with a 2g blob on the nozzle.
Hello everyone, I’ve been working with PETG for about a month now and seemed to have everything dialed in but can’t seem to understand what’s happening to the corners of my infill, any help is much appreciated
Have you already tried a slower printspeed? Since i print PETG with only 100 mm/s most of my PETG problems are gone.
Yes, most of my speeds are around 70/80 and Max Volumetric is at 9, not entirely sure what other settings I can adjust at this point.
My first guess, if what I’m seeing is the problem that you are referring too, is concerned with retraction. Petg, compared to pla, is very ‘oozy’. Many folk on here, have had problems with petg, and some have even found a solution. In Orca slicer, and others, there are fairly comprehensive test prints, to allow you to tune your printer to your specific spool of filament. Hopefully you have dried the spool of filament.
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I’m running through the process of tuning as we speak, I appreciate the reply. Filament has also been dried
Try my settings which i shared in this test design or the second one from the designer
The first one was the problematic as you will see
Assuming that the filament has been dried and flow and PA(K) factor may be different and needs filament specific calibration. my ones are eSUN
all the rest should be filament agnostic , may be print temp as i tent to print higher normally 240C for eSUN i print 255C or 260C
PETG blob is commonly overexerting or the PA(K) too low
For PETG the flow i run around 1%-2% lower than the measured my one shows 0.99-1.0 and i run it around 0.97-0.98
for PA(K) my factor usually run it bit lower which gives me nicer corners , or at the measured value - my measured value is around 0.05 and run it usually 0.045 to 0.04 even some times lower but then bulging and defects may be seen or the corners a something else which i like in the print
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Considering that I’m still learning the ropes, this information really made a difference. I appreciate it, thank you so much.