Nice! This finally Fixed most of the issues I can see so far. I took my Max Vol Speed from 13 to 10! Big difference, thank you.
Thank you very much for this! After running every calibration option in Orca Slicer to dial in my first ever spool of PETG (Overture), and running the nozzle at 265 and bed at 80, the best benchy I could get was a complete mess (I’d upload a photo, but the forum won’t let me).
I set the fans per your point 3, and the exhaust fan to 100% for printing and 70% for completion (and didn’t modify the GCode), and was able to print a benchy as good as any I’ve ever got with PLA, getting identical results with the door open or shut. The lid is always on, as I have an AMS on it.
Thank you!
@hant.szabi Thank you for sharing your settings. I just used them successfully with SUNLU PETG on my A1 Mini. I had been struggling with this filament for some time and using your settings gave me excellent results on my parts.
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I’d like to add that I got a lot from this thread - PET-G seemed ok a year ago, but has been rough lately.
A combination of these settings and a new nozzle helped. I still finish every hour+ pet-g print with a 2g blob on the nozzle.
Hello everyone, I’ve been working with PETG for about a month now and seemed to have everything dialed in but can’t seem to understand what’s happening to the corners of my infill, any help is much appreciated
Have you already tried a slower printspeed? Since i print PETG with only 100 mm/s most of my PETG problems are gone.
Yes, most of my speeds are around 70/80 and Max Volumetric is at 9, not entirely sure what other settings I can adjust at this point.
My first guess, if what I’m seeing is the problem that you are referring too, is concerned with retraction. Petg, compared to pla, is very ‘oozy’. Many folk on here, have had problems with petg, and some have even found a solution. In Orca slicer, and others, there are fairly comprehensive test prints, to allow you to tune your printer to your specific spool of filament. Hopefully you have dried the spool of filament.
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I’m running through the process of tuning as we speak, I appreciate the reply. Filament has also been dried
Try my settings which i shared in this test design or the second one from the designer
The first one was the problematic as you will see
Assuming that the filament has been dried and flow and PA(K) factor may be different and needs filament specific calibration. my ones are eSUN
all the rest should be filament agnostic , may be print temp as i tent to print higher normally 240C for eSUN i print 255C or 260C
PETG blob is commonly overexerting or the PA(K) too low
For PETG the flow i run around 1%-2% lower than the measured my one shows 0.99-1.0 and i run it around 0.97-0.98
for PA(K) my factor usually run it bit lower which gives me nicer corners , or at the measured value - my measured value is around 0.05 and run it usually 0.045 to 0.04 even some times lower but then bulging and defects may be seen or the corners a something else which i like in the print
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Considering that I’m still learning the ropes, this information really made a difference. I appreciate it, thank you so much.
WHAT??? you can bridge 4 inches long on stock profiles? Do you have x1c or p1s?
YES. PETG profile should be 1/3rd default speeds. It so aggravating we all had to figure that out the hard way, instead of the machine just WORKING.
Part cooling fan Min and MAX now also has the layer time setting for both the max and min. What do you suggest for this settings that will correspond to your suggested setting of min: 0% & max: 20%?
Hello everyone and thank you for your help solving problems!
I’ve tried several of the parameters with PETG mentioned here and one problem still occur.
I called it “infill crossing blobs”.
During infill, crossing infill lines are making blobs. It is very regular.
I have checked to dry filament, temps, K-factor setup, 15% part cooling fan, aux fan 80%, low speeds… But another parameter eludes me…
I changed the nozzle for a new one. It didn’t help.
What does your experience tell you?
Don’t use “crossing” infills.
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I discovered the crosshatch during my testing and I agree it seams to be an amazing infill.
I still wonder why my PETG prints so bad on these details.
It’s been a known problem for quite some time. As you can see in your own sample print, it doesn’t show up in gyroids, and so that’s maybe part of the reason why a lot of people prefer gyroids.
Not sure about crosshatch. That’s one feature BS presently has that OS lacks but which sounds promising in many ways.
By the way, how do you get different infills to print like that, all in the same print? I didn’t know it was possible. Seems like it could be extremely useful though.
Hello NeverDie
I modeled different blocks to then assign them specific fillings as sub-objects.
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OrcaSlicer V2.1.0 beta release has crosshatch infill, and makes crosshatch the default infill for System presets.
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