@Thrawn Seems like you solved it!
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@ Thrawn
THANK YOU!!!
You are either a lucky fellow or a genius!
I only changed two settings: disable slow down for overhangs, increase bridge from 50 to 200mm.
I did not change any other acceleration or speed values.
All artefacts are gone!
Quality is perfect!
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Glad to hear. Might need some more tinkering for other parts maybe, but at least there is now an idea what might be causing it.
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I just got interested in it and digged and testet some more. It actually is the slowdown for overhangs setting only, as no bridge is detected in the slicer. A moderate increase in speed for the 50%+ overhang speeds to 25mm/s removed most of the artifacts already, so setting it slightly above to 30mm/s should be enough to avoid it and the risk for problems in other prints with larger overhangs should be less then simply disabling the slowdown.
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One question remains: why do some X1C machines require this tweak and other X1C machines don’t? Is it just some kind of borderline variability in manufacturing?
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Remember what I wrote in a previous reply of another thread you made regarding this issue ?
We can learn something from everybody
This is a perfect example as there’s people in here with many years of experience that were throwing ideas at you and non of them seemed to be helping
Then along comes an awesome suggestion by @Thrawn who openly admits to being a newbie at this and presto ! the solution is discovered
Nice work Thrawn and I’m stoked you finally got a solution to your issue @T_guttata
Like a few of us wrote in our replies, hang in there and the solution will come to you
It’s these kinds of little things that put a smile on my miserable face lol
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That is quite a good question, and I got absolutely no idea. But in the few weeks since I got my first printer, I learned there are so many variables that its not easy to find a general answer to many problems.
Could be filament, could be ambient temps, could be nozzle manufacturing variances or a ton of other things.
I didn’t have any problems with other PETG parts I printed, so I only printed the the test cube to provide a photo that it works…well, turned out it didn’t 
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Sooo many variables. Different filaments are heated at different temps, different ambient temps, different enclosures for P1P vs X1C.
That’s why you got to tune your own settings.
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So hopefully Bambu Lab is reading this and will update the generic PETG profile to help others!
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I am happy with the present petg profile. It works great for me.
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Seems that PETG is finicky and can be quite different between brands. I really wish Bambu Lab would allow us to develop our own filament profiles that we could assign to AMS slots instead of using “generic PETG” for the slot and having to select the profile for the project separately.
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I will certainly let Bambulab know the problem is solved.
If a setting is causing such huge artefacts, bambulab must rework their settings. Tweaking some parameters will always be required, but in this case I would not call that “tweaking”.
Would be very interesting to know what really has an influence and why not all user seem to be affected. To say there are two many variables is not correct, you only have to say that if you don’t understand the technology in depth.
It can completely ruin your print, as it can be seen for example here:
A generic profile must not at all contain settings which in some cases can completely ruin the print.
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@T_guttata A+ on your persistence in pursuing your problem for as long as you have and for reporting back to everyone. 
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BLS gives us a "Generic Profile, we can tweak it for our needs, and save it as whatever you want, just not the same “Generic Profile” name. Others here have stated that for whatever reason the default profile works for them. Variations in hardware, filament or gods only know what but they are good to go.
I have had to tweak several profiles for different brands of PLA+ and other than the “Banding or Ringing” issue, my prints come out fine. Now I need to use Soft Fever to tune my ABS and 8mm nozzle for flow rate and PA.
If anything, the post with the solution needs to be made a “Sticky” or pin at the top to save someone having to sort through 213 posts on this thread, and every other thread that this gets referenced to.
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I have integrated the solution in the first post so people can avoid going through the whole thread…
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VERY well done on puzzling this out!! We’re all quite proud of you.
This is a perfect example of just how bloody complex 3D printing can be. There’s sooo many variables and sometimes they’re unique to your machine.
I’ve often had to explain to people (as a Computer Tech) that each PC may come off the factory floor with the same parts but after the user gets it and starts making changes it becomes a unique machine. Then along comes some big update and it crashes while hundreds of others with the same machine have no problem with the update!
3D printers are very exacting machines, even the slightest difference, like you experienced, can drive you off a cliff! 
Very, VERY good on the persistence. This is what you need to be successful in this field. You’ll be an expert in no time.
Oh - and thanks for sharing your journey, it helps all of us, especially @T_guttata who must have blood on his forehead from banging it on the edge of the table. 
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First congrats and great follow-through and solving the problem!
So quick question, and it might have been mentioned earlier but its starting to be allot to follow 
Did you print those in fully enclosed or open top glass like is suggested by Bamboo?
I’ve been printing PETG for many years and always with open printer (Airwolf while back, Prusa, etc.) Now I have need for the printers to be fully enclosed and Prusa is stating (in Email conversation) that MK3 will print PETG fine fully enclosed. Ultimaker is stating same about S5/S7.
all great and blah blah but I think BL X1 is setting new tone and I would like to go that direction if possible, I have one for test right now and about to start PETG prints.
thanks all
cheers
edit, printing now with PETG presets and 2 changes listed earlier, fully enclosed.
so far looks great, the exhaust fan is quite loud! normal or I missed something?
It’s a worthwhile question. I’ve printed PETG fully enclosed without issue (no artifacts). What about those who had artifacts? Did they print open or with the lid off? IIRC, guidance from Bambu is to print PETG with the lid off. Of course, ambient temperature might play a role in all of this as well, which would potentially complicate the interpretation.
Either way, I’m glad @Thrawn found a workable solution! If this forum supports it, I nominate him for Hero status.
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70% = Quiet exhaust fan
I printed the PETG with a closed case. But I can test with normal settings and open, but since its winter here, the temps in the case weren’t very high. Not even high enough to be a problem for PLA