Nice forbidden Oreo
Gyroid is a nice infill
ASA has a smell when printed—may be discomforting if you have mainly printed PETG/PLA. I exhaust out a window. I also find that it is prone to warping, more so than PETG/PLA so need to be mindful about the model design and using brims.
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Many thanks for this thread!. Received my 5 rolls of prusament PETG today. Ordered them because I had completely given up trying to get the prints in order with eSUN PETG in my Bambu X1C. Haven’t had any success with any of their filaments actually. (PLA, PETG and TPU95-a)
I put my 5 rolls to dry at 60 degrees for 6 hours and read this thread in the meantime 
Downloaded the cube you linked @T_guttata and thought it would be the perfect first print after reading all the posts here.
I chose the Generic PETG profile and 0.20mm Standard. Changed to 30mm/s in 75, 100% Overhang speed. Also chose Gyroid 15% as infill and pressed print.
Couldn’t be happier as nothing came close to this with eSUN’s junk filament. No build up at all around the nozzle at any point and really super happy.
Many thanks to everyone here and especially to you @T_guttata who kept the thread updated and well documented with pictures. And of course @Thrawn for coming up with the solution.
Great work !
Are you able to share a file of the finished configuration to make customization easier for beginners ?
THIS!
I never got PETG to run. I tried all recommendations here like filament drying, speed reduction, flow rate, etc. but nothing worked.
With your fan tweakings, the Bambu generic PETG profile works perfect now (tested with Sunlu & Esun)!!! THANKS ALOT!
(some problems with the forum😂 refers to djeZo888’s post: main cooling 0-20, Aux 90, Chamber Max)
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Some more info I would like to add after few weeks of additional PETG printing experience.
Always keep main cooling fan low (up to 30% max). Adjust AUX fan according to the model. If the model has a lot of overhangs, bridges etc, keep higher value for AUX, otherwise, reduce it down to 40-50, in some cases even 30. The less cooling you have, the better adhesion - which is better.
When it comes to doors - open them if your temp is above 40 and close if your temp is below 40 in the chamber. Nowadays I print with closed door but have riser on the top to let hot air out, so the temp inside the chamber is around 40. This makes about perfect PETG prints allaround for any kind of model.
I am still amazed over PETG-CF. It looks fantastic; the surface finish is amazing, professional. I keep buying PETG-CF like crazy.
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No more eSun moving on for me.
@af0.arnau Why? Did you only have problems with eSun and not with other PETG?
I’m struggling with eSun PETG on my X1C. I get almost perfect benchys, now even decent prints (albeit small), but still a lot of filament builds up on my nozzle and sometimes comes off during printing. So I would be interested to hear what your experience has been with eSun PETG and other brands.
I have no issues with E-sun. I just have to make sure I calibrate the different filament settings.
Crazy thread ! amazing the number thing i learn for bambulab printer just with this case !!
i got some truble on P1S with the PETG (Eryone). I solve some problem with all the advice of everyone here !
Thanks a lot for you self-sacrifice @T_guttata !! Just impressed no other word about all the community support for this case ! well done everyone and thanks again.
I use the advice of @T_guttata @Thrawn @hant.szabi !
Did you fully dry out the filament? PETG sucks water in fast, and can be too wet right out of the shrink wrap.
@T_guttata - Thank you for dogging this issue!
@Thrawn - Thank you for the solution!
My X1-CC is only a couple weeks old today, October 14th and I am printing a project in Overture PETG. I have been struggling with this for a couple of days before looking it up here. Problem solved!
The secondary reason for this post is because I am using the latest Bambu Studio and the profiles for PETG are still not updated. I’m not sure if Bambu Labs is monitoring this forum or not!?!
I’ve been following the guidance in this thread but am having some very weird issues with petg. I get horrible steps in sharp edges/ corners and sometimes sharp edges become very rounded. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Usually rounded corners means you need to run input shaping, or you are going way to fast. I would start by running all the auto diagnostics on your machine. Then try it again. If it still does it, then try slowing down your print speeds by at least half.
What speed are you currently using?
on the advice of someone else, i dried the filament and re-tested the k-value (it’s bambu basic). Fixed the issue straight away. A new one for me, i’ve never known wet petg ,cause geometry errors (i did slow the speeds right down to similar to what my Ender printers do with no improvement). Running pretty much the stock profile on ORCA slicer now and it’s printing beautifully
Juts want to +1 this thread – I got a X1C for the Holidays and had been cranking through PETG transparent and CF colors for a while. When this last firmware update hit, I started to get under-extrusion on all my PETG prints; almost all the first-layers have gaps and there’s terrible stranding and clumping on the nozzle. Nothing else changed except the update.
I did a reset to factory and a recalibrate after the update, got it all clean and etc but still had issues. The tips here help – especially when it comes to the use of the fans in the X1C and the temperature settings for the bed and hotend.
I’m still having issues… ordered some cleaning filament as maybe I’ve run too much CF through and need to give the guts a better cleaning than a standard de-clog will do.
Regardless I hope Bambu pays attention because I think their PETG filament is pretty great stuff but the default profiles might need some attention?
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Can you share your PETG profiles?
If you process PETG too fast and too cold, the layers will not hold well and the printed part will be fragile. Work at low speeds for small parts up to 20mm/s and larger parts up to 90mm/s. 255°C is a suitable temperature for normal PETG (generic).
Best regards!
Because if the slicer is extruding the wrong volume of filament per volume of model , then changing layer height will not help because the ratio used to calculate extrusion is still wrong.
Thank you for posting your original settings and your follow app. Even using bamboo lab PETG and their settings were not working for me, but once I put in your settings and then adjusted for the follow-up settings. My prints have been turning out excellent!
Do the settings which work at 0.4mm nozzle and 0.2mm layer height work just as well with a 0.6mm nozzle and 0.3mm layer height? Or is it back to square one on the quest for perfect settings?
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