Is calibration influenced by the settings in the slicer (filament, speeds) ? Or it does not matter what settings one has there , calibration will do its thing. Do i have to clear the AMS before running the calibration ? I have done the calibration in Bambu slicer many times but could not find any answer to these questions.
It would seem logical not to take into account any settings.
@Momo welcome to the team of big frustration with X1C/P1S and PETG vs the old reliable Mk3 and new Mk4 but not to worry You will get there , just …
Just yesterday had to print couple of prints from PETG for my wife’s garden and I did it in parallel on both X1C and Mk4 even after so much tunning on the X1C the result was good but the Mk4 result was still better , but i use the normal Mk4 PETG profile a bit slower and the fastest X1C PETG i can make it run with good result (2h vs 1h30m) so …
Note that these are the faster eSUN PETG settings , when i really care i am kind reducing the speeds to the Mk4 speeds , or some times i increase the MK4IS and the quality is very close
The main things which affected the print with PETG, may have already been mentioned a few times:
Speeds bellow 150mm/S better around 70mm/S small perimeters around 35-45mm/S , retraction i use no standard but also a bit improvement
main trick slightly reduce the Flow from Measured , and slightly reduce the K
( my case Measured flow/K 0.99/0.05 Using: 0.96/0.044 ), Slightly higher temp than recommended that is from eSUN
secondary noticed that helps reducing a bit acceleration and max travel speed
On the MK4 i do not do the reduction or just tiny 0.98/0.045 from measured 0.99/0.048(0.049) on the Mk4IS they changed the K control command(M900 to M572) and cant’ use the automatic K need to replace G-commands manually or revert the firmware to normal MK4 both are painful.
I use Orca Slicer for Mk3(retired now) and Mk4 and X1C , but very often use Prusa slicer for MK4 as just a bit better results , especially on overhangs and practically very little tunning required defaults prints ok . I transferred some of the settings from Prusa Slicer to Orca slicer and then almost equal - on a case by case as getting a bit slow
Reduce some of the speeds for even better results
Note For flow only the latest Auto Test from Bambu /Orca looked really good result and is easier to see(reported) than the normal which i use 3 magnifying lenses ( bad eyes- old )
All i think relevant settings , the rest is more or less defaults , but let me know if you want to check or copy more settings
Whenever I’ve run the PA calibration, I’ve always found that the ideal number lay between 0 and 0.03. So, I use that as the range and set the step value to 0.001. Matter of fact, now that I think of it, I’m pretty sure I could limit the range between 0.01 and 0.03, as I don’t recall ever getting a value less than 0.01.
If you don’t do any calibration at all, the default is 0.02, which pretty much tells you that right around there is what most measurements will indicate.
@NeverDie is this PETG , as the result bello 0.03 look like PLA
I have tried 3 brands of PETG and always thwe K¶ was around 0.05
Also checked on the net and profiles for other brands for X1C and Prusa has been always around 0.045-0.05 ?
Also from the photo looks more close to 0.05 but not clean enough. @NeverDie , @Momo try to run the PA Tower method, much more visible and clean just a bit longer. For the PETG K¶ very often single layer on the plate gives also a bit misleading results due to the capillary effect and PETG properties( depending on the plate) the PA Tower is always accurate
EDIT: for 0.4mm nozzle
@vladimir.minkov Cheers for the explanations ! thats what i was looking for.
some questions please:
Does filament density influences anything ? as prusament PETG is 1.29 i think.
What is your volumetric speed setting ?
Filament - settings overrides - you don’t have any retraction ?
I see you entered the K value in the Enable pressure advance. But if using the AMS the pressure advance the K value is entered into the filament. Is is still needed to input at the filament settings also ?
What sparse and internal infill patterns you use ?
Do you use the same settings for different layer heights ?
I read about the PA tower method, but the P1S doesn’t have this. It has a very skimed down calibration menu, only 2 options: flow dynamics or flow rate (Orca slicer or Bambu Slicer).
OrcaSlicer has the PA tower in the top line calibration menu. It should work with the P1S. Store the result in the User filament preset and it will be used for all prints sliced with Studio or OrcaSlicer - you will not need a value on the Device tab.
Filament density is not used does not matter , good to set it up only to know in the slicer the estimated weight of the printed model
For PETG i keep it at 13mm3/S but sometimes reduce it to limit all the max speeds to under 100 with out changing the actual speeds
Retraction i do not overwrite any more. i use the standard from the printer settings 0.8mm/ z hop 0.4mm( take a printer-> extruder settings) . There were some slightly better results but very rarely need to change
Filament settings overwrites what ever is in the AMS , I do not use the AMS stored values not convenient , in the advanced tab there is command which allows
the same profile to be used in Bambu slicer and Orca slicer once setup by Orca and saved in the cloud
Variety infills more depends on the model requirements and strength , from Cubic/Grid/ Rectilinear / Gyroid/HoneyComb/Gyroid really depended on the model - lately more often cubic and Rectilinear and Grid, if Honey comb i put solid layer every X layers . Stopped using Gyroid for PETG not sure why
More or less , but layer heights above 0.2 are not good for most of my prints, and leyer heights bellow 0.12 had have enough issues with PETG and much slower and not worth it so especially for PETG mainly 0.2 , but i do play with the width which i change everythin to 0.45 apart from the top layer 0.42, some water tide prints been using 0.5 mm for inner wall ( more related to watertide boxes )
You do have the PA Tower only On orca slicer for P1S or any other printer including Mk3 , apart from MK4IS
Would be fantastic if you could check your settings against the cube of doom from this thread (i call it like this because it seems it wants to kill my printer ) AND Prusament PETG.
I get ■■■■ results for any volumetric speed above 8.
Also, using “slow down for overhangs” messes up the print. I have to unckeck it.
You need to click on Prepare tab first
EDIT: @Momo there are two calibration buttons one is on top , after you selected Prepare TAB this is the Orca slicer calibrations
the other is the Calibration TAB on the right which i almost never use ( both Orca and Bambu ) , then the Orca button disappears
Can anyone here who owns both the X1C and the A1 comment as to whether the A1 prints PETG the same, better, or worse than the X1C? The nozzles/hotends/extruder(?) are different, so to whatever degree any of those, or anything related to those, or anything else that might be different might be a factor, maybe the results are different? On the other hand, if it’s largely the same, that too might be worthy of note.
That is ok use 260C or maybe 265C for now you will get back to it
just run the flow Phase 2, before that set the flow in the filament to 1.0
I think you can skip Phase 1 with the above
EDIT: after Pass 2 , set what ever value in the flow i suspect will be between 0.95-0.97. And then run Pressure advance with defaults should be fine
In the menu there is a link to Tutorial
And the results with 260C should be adequate for general PETG printing
The rest of the tests you can play and is good to see but usually not needed
GL
i feel bad for dumping all these on you, but i really don’t know what i’m looking for so i need guidance I’ll do the flow phase 2 with filament set at 1 now. I did yesterday both phases of the flow calibration using the other calibration menu i got at the end 0.9718.
Lets see what this Pass 2 will give
I have may be one more hour or so before go to work , will help as much as i can in the time
EDIT: Use value 0.97 for now ( 0.97 is probably correct ) but i reduce for PETG only a bit as it has issues and skip Phase 2 , go directly to Pressure advance
The Auto flow is quite good lately
After you finish Pressure advance , you probably want to reduce both values a bit for actual printing ( PETG only). Lets say if you get 0.048, with the flow 0.97 . You set 0.96 with 0.045 something like that
I’d like to move on to pressure advance, but my problem with that tutorial, which i read like 5 times is that it doesnt say the default values from which to start. I have in my AMS settings a K value of 0.06. Should i put 0 there and untick pressure advance in filament settings ? What are the correct (default) values for doing the test ? or it does not matter ?
Use in the FLOW 0.98 as you got 0.97 from the other test
Use the default as example here in the future you will be able to change
Also you can stop the print if you see really high openings on the top layers But this is good for almost everything just some extra printing
EDIT : it is good to see lower than actual value and higher as well , and 0 is equivalent of disabled , after you measure on a few sides of the print you will get average
) AND Prusament PETG.
