@User_2799552445 With PETG this had been a problem for me on the X1C
there are two issues which are happening
the PETG is getting pulled from the nozzle or build up on the nozzle ,
and not welded to the previous layer at the end yet
At some pint a blobs are left with more material , and some places does not have connection or enough material
From testing and a bit counter intuitive the following have noticed have most effect to solve this specific issue for me:
Playing between the K and flow solved it for me , at some point also played with cooling and temperatures, retractions but that has been stable and also probably contribute but has not been the main problem, also i always print at a bit higher temperature then the recommended for eSUN PETG 230-250C , i use 260C and if needed compensate with cooling for bridges
For my PETG the measured flow is around 0.99 And measured K factor close to 0.5 . But for PETG is the only material where i do not use the measured values
Actual flow i reduced to 0.96 and the K factor to 0.44
what does it mean it uses a bit less material , but reduced K Factor increase the end points as it has a bit more pressure in the nozzle when the printer slows down
Since very rarely would see that issue , may be some times oozing but also very small and rare
Interesting enough on the other printer Prusa mk4, never had to do it. And for a while was printing PETG only on the Prusa , but now the X1C gives me the same quality or near the same
One note in some slicing models i noticed that the infill was not anchored at all or/and printed in the air , but that does not look the case here
I think already shared a complete Print profile before , but let me know if you need to copy
There is very interesting feature in the Prusa Slicer - print with constant flow - it slows down the print but man has an amazing results and K factor becomes obsolete for that kind of print.
They have speeds of 150 and 200mm/s in the profile for a print with PETG. I always start below 90mm/s, around 65mm/s is a good starting value for me. Once I have achieved an error-free, optimised print image and a print that is as stable as possible at a printing temperature of just over 250°C, only then do I consider whether I can increase the printing speed (but then I also see whether the higher speed can lead to other errors. I think printing PETG at up to 200mm/s is very ambitious.
Good point but @user_2799552445 has in the settings 12mm3/s which will limit to max 147-150mm/S on the 0.04mm nozzle and his 200 does not matter . PETG bellow 150mm is ok. But small perimeter will be affected as it is 50% of 150(Outer wall) which can be a problem at 75mm/S which i never had it above 60 and more often 35mm/S as ( outer wall speed - (70,100 or 120)
Also acceleration affects the print quite a bit
simple test is just reduce the Volumetric speed to 8mm3/s which will limit max speed to 100mm/S
150mm/S is ok , but for a good speed and good quality here are my speed settings
Lately has been increasing the 70mm to over 100mm for the outer wall and still good result
and for @Mechanicos cooling profile - note first played a lot with it and finally got back to the original with some exhaust fan , works for almost every model of PETG (with one ore two exceptions)
@vladimir.minkov Thanks very much for posting your settings. Which make and model of PETG are you using (or from which those settings were derived)? It would be best if people post that info as well whenever they post their known good settings, because I’m pretty sure there’s an interesting story yet to be told regarding different PETG filaments on the market (essentially raw PETG but with maybe very different “additives”) and how they play on this machine. For instance, when this thread started, BBL didn’t yet have a PETG filament that it was selling, and it was even quite a while longer before it had one to sell–and it certainly wasn’t for lack of demand.
I have also been printing successfully with PETG after calibrating. I calibrated the pressure advance and flow rate of my filament. I also did temperature calibration and reduced printing speeds.
It was the same for the mk3. I doubt many people know it, but this thread actually started over on the Prusa forum as part of an attempt to objectively review the strengths, weaknesses, and capabilities of the X1. Why there? Well, what better place to collect criticisms? When the topic of the X1’s handling of PETG started to grow big enough that it was derailing that other thread, the OP moved it over here. All that is history now, but if anyone is interested, I can post the link.
@NeverDie mainly eSUN PETG tunned it and sure that most PETGs can be tunned but nothing price quality strikes me to go through the pain again for cheap brand
I have some Prusa PETG left overs and have not used it for a long time - never had any problems with it on Prusa MK3S V6 (after tunning) and Revo extruders( after little tunning) and MK4 nextruder( no tunning defaults), have not tried it on the X1C, as Prusa filament is quite more expensive here and prefer to use single brand, But may give it a crack for comparison if there is interest
Edit: on the prusa for the last year i use also eSUN PETG
Edit2: actually the settings kinda been merging between the Prusa Slicer for MK4IS and X1C for quality, based on the original defaults from X1C also vise versa from X1C to Mk3s Revo and MK4 for speed . Until slowly find that practically only factors were K,Flow , TEMP, speed , acceleration, and a little cooling sometimes the rest defaults
@NeverDie please share the link
As MK4IS prints everything better by default with out much tunning if any
A week ago i bought a P1S with AMS. Coming from an MK3S which i used for a quite a few year (upgrading it).
My go to filament id Prusament PETG. On the MK3S i just have 2 filament rolls on top of the printer, they not protected by anything - so no drying, no dusting off, nothing. Every time i wanted to print something it just worked.
To my surprise on the P1S it’s not quite the same. In fact PETG is a killer.
So i found this thread and the dreaded test cube And i’ve printed tons of them - almost a full spool of green Prusament PETG. These are my best results
for some reason i cant insert photos yet
Yes, they suck.
I am printing with closed door on the P1S and no risers. And i’d like to keep it that way. I have calibrated the flow and pressure advance many times over. K - 0.05, Flow 0.95.
I tried messing with cooling, with speed, went down all the way to Vol Speed 8, nothing works.
Now i’m lost in all the settings and quite frustrated I love the printer, but i’d like to use the Prusament PETG.
Can someone share the FULL settings please ? for printing with open door
Having spent just over 30 Minutes reading, you should be able to now. May need to read a few more different posts though.
Pic’s would be really helpful as we do not yet know how your prints failed. With PETG, the most common failures occur due to curling/warping and nozzle-filament adhesion.
Surprisingly, I didn’t find that Prusament Grey PETG printed all that well on the X1C. I’d recommend you save your money on Prusament and try to find a “high speed” PETG where the manufacturer claims it can handle print speeds of 500-600mm/s. Realistically, a rating for 300mm/s would probably be good enough, but more speed is more better to better ensure enough print speed headroom.
If you’re looking for some ideas, here are some: All of voxellabpla’s filaments are rated for 500mm/s. Surprisingly, even a seemingly low priced filament like Elagoo’s Rapid PETG seems to work well enough at native Bambu speeds. Although I haven’t tried it yet, I suspect Creality’s “hyper” series would probably work too.
Did you do the calibrations provided by orca slicer?
I am new to this too, i got my x1c about 2 weeks ago. PLA was perfect, but PETG was really bad. So I started off by using the settings in this article, and then carried out the calibrations in orca slicer.
I did the temperature calibration, flow rate calibration
Never tried Orca, took me long enough to get settled in with Bambu slicer :(. But i’ll give it a shot
The reason i ask if you can show full settings is because many things affect the print. For example Internal Solid infill Pattern and Sparse infill pattern. And everything else
And i’ve printed tons of them - almost a full spool of green Prusament PETG. These are my best results 
