I’ve been trying to get this Bambu PETG Basic print to work and it keeps failing on the first layer on top of a large support bed. Initial I thought it was damp filament so invested in a dryer and 12hr drying time but it’s still doing the same thing. The layer seams to curl up and then gets shredded by the hot end tip
Prints fine in PLA. Any suggestions?
I don’t use Bambu lab PETG but this should help you out try these settings with your PETG.
Supports set the top Z distance to 0.17
4 top interface layers
Top interface spacing 0.33
Other layers nozzle temp 260c if you are printing real fast you will have to increase it even more but best to keep speeds down as you are learning to print with PETG
Internal Orca / Bridge speed 30 mm/s
External 10 mm/s if using Orca Slicer
Normal printing acceleration 5000 mm/s
Bridge acceleration 1000 mm/s if using Orca Slicer
Do the top surface @ 60 mm/s or 100 mm/s max and the top surface line width @ 0.35
Keep me update 
Thanks, will give that a try.
I’ve done a tonne of successful PETG printing with Bambu Basic and eSun PETG with no problems at all, most also had supported overhangs. Just seems to be this particular model where the overhang layer doesn’t stick to the support interface properly.
Cool also keep an eye on the petg speeds in the preview screen menu as the part gets bigger the speeds will increase unless you have the speed settings set lower or the max volumetric speed set lower than the default 13 value.
The cht nozzle works better with petg @ higher speeds.
Problem solved. Just got a new roll of eSun PETG and printed the model with the unedited Generic PETG filament profile and the print was flawless.
Seems Bambu PETG Basic and their own PETG profile are not at all good together. Looking at the many other PETG posts here the common problem seems to be Bambu PETG Basic.
That’s a shame as I have 3 roll of it currently in transit that I ordered a week ago. Hopefully Bambu take note of all these users having issues and manage to optimise their profile.
Yep not all petg are the same and the bambu lab profiles are just basic settings to get you started nothing special.
All they change in the slicer is:
Nozzle temps sometimes have to be changed for the filaments color like 10c or so.
You might find the black bambu lab petg will want a higher nozzle temperature also when it is bridging the support layer the part fan is @ 90% cooling.
At first I thought you were discussing PETG on PLA support interface but it was just PETG, right?
When I got the printer half a year ago, I carelessly printed PETG, PA and ASA (all Bambu) for days and didn’t have a single problem. I never preheated the chamber or anything like that. Only later I learned those can be challenging- I now assume my success was just for the honeymoon, lol. I have only printed PLA and TPU for some time now and I fully expect a load of problems when I revisit the harder stuff.
So TLDR; thanks for sharing!
No, PETG on PETG support.
I’ve also printed many hundreds of my designs and have not had one issue, ABS, ASA, PETG, TPU, until now. Was a little sad as don’t have time for a hobby just need a reliable printer and so far the Bambu P1S has been perfect. Happy again now that I know it’s just a filament/filament profile issue and don’t have to spend too long trying to dial the printer back in or play around with slicing parameters.
UPDATE & SOLVED: Another update that hopefully helps other.
I stated getting the same problem with the eSun PETG too. Read through a load of other PETG post on here and have solved my issue. The chamber was getting too hot (it’s summer here and ambient temps are high) so now print PETG with the glass lid removed and have perfect prints again. That’s with both Bambu PETG Basic and eSun PETG.
