I’ve only had H2D a week or so. I had X1-C for awhile before that.
I’ve been having issues with Spaghetti and model falling over. I’ve dried filament well, tried clean and glue on bed and does not seem to matter.
I was using PLA support material with recommended settings on left nozzle, PLA matte on the right.
I’ve had very much the same as this several times.
I have time lapse video, but don’t see a way to upload.
I cannot share the model- sorry.
This is a new machine for me. On the X1-C and Cool Super Tack, I would just wash it. The others I added glue, either stick or liquid.
This one tried just clean, then added some glue. Perhaps I need to use hot water and soap and really clean it like the supertack?
The Bambu Lab Liquid Glue is an adhesive specially developed for 3D printing, suitable for printing materials such as PLA, ABS, and PETG on all Bambu Lab build plates. When using Bambu Lab Liquid Glue, constant adhesion is maintained without worrying about models falling off or warping.
Glue can function either as an adhesion promoter or as a release agent, depending on the printed material, build plate temperature, and the specific glue formulation. I use Magigoo products, which are designed to ensure strong bed adhesion during printing and easy release once the plate cools down.
For example:
• Magigoo PA is essential for printing with nylon (PA and PAHT-CF), as it significantly enhances adhesion during printing. However, once the build plate cools, it acts as a release agent, allowing the part to detach easily without damage.
• Magigoo Original works well with materials like PLA, PETG, and TPU. For TPU in particular, it helps prevent excessive bonding that could otherwise damage the part or build surface, especially at higher bed temperatures. It promotes controlled adhesion while still enabling clean release after cooling.
This dual behavior—strong grip when hot, easy release when cool—is a key feature that makes these adhesives effective for a wide range of materials and printing conditions.
I gave up on trying to print it ‘vertically’ and laid it on the side. While the ‘super Tack’ on my X1-C would easily print that way, this one does not always work. Certainly could be not cleaning the build plate well enough.
But with the dual nozzle, I could have support on the interface and that gave a surface fairly easy to clean up. Not as good as not having it, but it did work decently.
Using the dual nozzle for support interface does seem to be a lot quicker than with just one. I have not tried TPU yet, I have some thing I may try to have as a ‘cushion’ layer on rest of print.
I have had the same issue with poor adhesion to the H2D build plate. I use Magigoo (for PLA) on my four other printers including an X1C with great success. I assumed that Magigoo would also work on the H2D build plate, but that resulted in many adhesion failures. After cleaning off the Magigoo with detergent, adhesion improved significantly. There is a noticable appearance and texture difference between the X1C and H2D PEI build plates and it seems that the H2D version is not compatilble with Magigoo. I haven’t tried the Bambu liquid glue.
Yes the plate has a coating (oleophobic?) on it and the adhesion is great without any adhesives. Ive printed PLA, TPU, ABS, PC, PA, PPS all without glue with great adhesion. I do use nano polymer adhesive on some PA prints but I ordered an aftermarket PEI plate (uncoated) to use with adhesives.
I generally use Magigoo Original for all standard filaments—TPU, PLA, ABS, PETG, etc. For specialty materials (TPU, PAHT-CF, PC-FR, and so on), I switch to the matching Magigoo formulation. Just like other high-performance adhesives, Magigoo grips firmly when hot but releases cleanly as it cools.
Three months ago I fitted my X1 Carbon with a Wham Bam carbon-fiber build plate and ran a series of temperature tests. You can read the full write-up here:
A dirty build surface coupled with too-low temperatures is a common cause of supports detaching mid-print—even if the part itself looks perfect. If you’re seeing poor adhesion:
Cleanliness first. Make sure your build plate is spotless (you’ve already done this), since any grease or residue will drastically reduce grip.
Double-check your temperatures. Your nozzle and bed settings may need to be higher than the stock profile if your room runs cool.
Account for chamber temperature. The X1 Carbon has no heated enclosure, so ambient air can cool your print and weaken adhesion. Even on machines like the H2 Drive, which has a controlled chamber, the system can struggle to keep up over long prints.
Making those tweaks should help your supports—and your parts—stay firmly in place right through to the end of the job.