I suppose this suggestion will find you too late, but if you have to pick and choose, it would be better to do the calilantern on the Creality K2 Plus. The reason being that at least a couple of people (including me) did a Calilantern already for the X1C. Actually, how about this strategy: do them in order of your favorite to least favorite 3d printer, because then you might find out something you didn’t already know that would be of the most importance to you the soonest.
All that said, don’t feel obligated at all. Carefully collecting all the required measurements is undeniably tedious.
If its 99% off topic, then its probably on topic. Did you have a question about the x1e? It is an x1c with heated chamber, filtration and ethernet. If you want more strict X1E information, you may want to try the x. series section of the forum. If you were actually looking for h2d info, there isnt any besides a couple leaks also covered in other threads.
This thread is just packed full of useful stuff about new printers.
I understand the frustration of looking for new H2D info. We have all been waiting too. When it comes out, we will cover it here, but there will be an official thread in announcements also.
Dang. Looks like I actually got lucky. It is a newer unit. From Black Friday. Now I want to test my 6,000 hour x1c
In your post, rocketsled is wrong. He said its half a mm off for the 256mm bed, but this test part is only 100mm and half the measurements taken are 50mm
Side note for those waiting on the TPU prints: Im having trouble getting a good k2 plus print while using the normal ptfe path. Ive read that some get around it by running the tpu straight into the extruder. And now the popular fix is using a weaker tensioning spring. I havnt had the time to mess with it, but im wondering if that means theres no tension screw.
Probably wont be able to solve it until this weekend. All other tpu prints came out nice. Ill post them when I have a decent comparison print from the k2. If its going to be your only printer, hold off until I have a better answer. The X1c print looks best.
Back on topic (speculation about new printer). Isn’t there at least a slight resemblance between these, if one engages in a bit of wishful thinking? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=46MyMgrGhho
Have you varified these are legit pics? Doesnt look like bambu style hardware or wiring.
In fact, its a markforged mark 2. Says it right on the photo.
The other, is the leaked photo thats gone around many times. Nobody has varified. Do a quick search and youll see many threads already started about it.
“In addition to more common FFF features, the Mark Two has a 2nd-generation fiber reinforcement system that enables you to lay down continuous fiber into parts.” The 2nd tube feeds in carbon fibers. Probably why the printer is $16,000. Very innovative.
The guess on the streets is that the h2d will have 2 ptfe tubes because it has dual nozzles.
Sorry, forgot to answer this. I would have already ordered a core one but ordering straight from prusa seems like a hassle. Im waiting for printed solid to get stock. Ratrig pays and covers all importing costs and paperwork. From what ive heard, prusa does not.
I,m sorry just wanted to compare the leaked picture of H2D with the mark2, speculating if bambulab could be doing something simular. Its a Long shot I know, probably nothing of substance.
Ahh. That would be cool. I personally cant wait for an official announcement. Its guaranteed to be good after this long of a wait.
Edit: to others, I got the TPU working. I read somewhere that the melt zone of the hotend is extra long for high speeds but negatively affects TPU. The fix was obvious, and I should have already caught it but I tried getting away with not tuning the TPU for temp. It wants 200c, which is crazy but works like 230c on other printers. Its also high speed TPU, so that may play a part. Not sure.
it’s clear that the K2 Plus wins hands down. That’s a very interesting result, since the last time I checked it was either difficult or impossible the correct the skew on the X1C.
Is there any area in which the X1C beats the K2 Plus?
Small, fine details and TPU. Overall quality. If youre printing miniatures, youll want the bambu. Plus the k2 is brand new. Time will tell if it stays consistant.
It is pretty close on the TPU now. (ran out of filament, just restarted it) The weird effect on the boat railing is a light/camera thing. Looks good to the eye
Creality did it again… the cost of the K2 Plus Combo just set limits for whatever 2025 reserves.
Many thanks, @NeverDie, for sharing the details and @StreetSports for the tests; it is good to know that it is cheap and works.
What? I was hoping they would have something in the works. Awesome. Best time to be a printer nut. Hope they release it soon and also offer it in a 300-350 size
Right? Would be interesting to print some full size chairs just to say I could. Glad I’m in the middle of remodeling my office; going to have to make sure I keep some room available for one of these big boy printers.
Tpu results are in. To keep everything fair, I will point out that ive been fine tuning this x1c tpu setup for a long time. Also, I havnt fine tuned minimum layer time/speed for the k2 plus (ran through the chimney at full speed.)
I normally run all tpu on the x1c and pla/tpu mix on the xl. I use the plus 4 for high temp stuff and the k2 is still new to me. The k2 temp sensor may be faulty because this was printed at 200c on the k2, 230c on all others.(I mentioned at the beginning that I had a feeling the sensor was off)
Either way, this x1c printbis beautiful. Pics dont do any of them justice because I suck at photography.
the xl usually makes better tpu prints but this didnt help the cause. Cant use the ptfe tube. Has too much drag with the tight umbillical loop. Cant use the whole spool either. I have to try and guess how much it will use and cut that much from the roll. Then the piece flops around throughout the print. If theres any twist in the piece, this happens. If anybody has any tips for this, please share.
