I mean its a legitimate printer, you can see influencers reviewing it on youtube, again Im assuming it wasnt in any target markets. Too expensive for hobbyist who most likely didnt trust Creality with that much of their money and just not on any businesses radar cuz, again, Creality.
Thatās the Aurora video I was referring to in my previous post above.
Yeah its the first one I saw, but theres others of it being used āin real life.ā Iāve also see old Reddit posts of people talking about their experiences with it
I have a Halot Lite, got it cuz it was a big bed at the time. I used it a LOT less than I thought i would, i think its the whole process and consumables that makes resin just not for me (right now). My biggest issue with it is not knowing if my prints are working until it high enough out of the bed to see if its still connected to the bed lol. The pause feature doesnt work at all cuz it leaves a big ass shift where it was paused. I keep it around for one or two things, but I prob wont up my resin game until something like Bambu comes along and makes it easier
Making it easier doesnāt necessarily mean you get rid of the inherent problems when printing with resinā¦unless you go for the water soluble resin, which obviously is not that cheap per kgā¦at least for the time being.
Well my issues are getting settings right, which I currently have for the current ABS-Like grey i use. Iād love to use other color resins and stuff, but I dont wana change my setting off of what I use right now cuz its too frustrating finding them again. A little like different filaments on FDM printers that bambu made easier. Iām just looking for a little bit more streamlined process. When a print fails on FDM you see it immedately, no so much for Resin printers (well that I know of)
Iām using a Saturn 4 Ultra, and the slicer it comes with it (both Chitubox and Elegooās own Chitubox version) has already included most the the standard resin presets that actually do workā¦at least never had a failed resin print since Iāve got my Saturn, in August last yearā¦ Perhaps itās worth having a test run with it, see if it suits your needs.
Almost all the electronics in the P1S are different from the X1C, they are very different printers.
The holy grail, at least for some people, would be an FDM printers which can print with accurate detail that matches a resin printer. So, what would be required for that?
If H2D can achieve its advertised XY accuracy by means of the calibration plate, then the first item is checkboxed. Then, the next step would be to tackle the ultra thin layer lines, or at least get substantially thinner, and then that would better meet the last two items.
Of course, by the time that happens, resin printing may have improved, so itās a moving target. But for many people, that would maybe put the FDM printer in the āgood enoughā category for replacing a resin printer. If Bambu could do that, it would be a masterstroke. Maybe it will be somebody else, but thinner layer lines seems like a worthwhile target, even if it means narrower nozzles and longer print times, at least in the near-term.
And the good news is that it could be a tiny printer, which seems to be the market Bambu is more interested in. So when competitors finish taking over the large format market, Bambu will still have this as its growth opportunity.
I think Lost In Tech got down to 30 micron layers in his miniature video, but still not 25 micron or below (with 0.4mm nozzle)
I would assume that the A2 would be the A1 but with a double nozzle. The A1, A1M, P1 and X1 all have one nozzle and the only number they contain is 1. The H2D is a dual nozzle and the only number it contains is 2. So I would assume the A2 would be an A1 but with another nozzle.
I think the 2 is for 2nd gen and the D in H2D is for dual nozzle.
Could be, but I still stick with my own theory, Iāll believe it until something gets confirmed.
Much better than the earlier youtube (by, let us say, a less objective youtuber) I posted regarding this PEEK printer:
He should just accept that he will need to anneal a PEEK print and prove that it works well enough in his next video. Annealing temperature is typically in the 200C to 250C range, so well within the capability of most inexpensive blast ovens, which I recommend you get regardless, as it is quite useful to have around for drying filament and other things.
Also, he says PEEK is $1,000 per kilogram. Well, a 1 second search shows that matter hackers has it at $690 per kilogram, and I bet it can be found for less.
Anyhow, the point is if you can print PEEK, you can probably print just about anything. At the very least, more than you currently can.
If it can do it at 300x300x300mm, which is the spec, for $699, that would be a big advance in what hobbyists can buy. Iām just afraid it may be too good to be true. On Kickstarter, 3D printers are almost a canonical scam, and thereās good reason not to lower your guard. A scammer could build a few printers at high cost to send to youtube reviewers and advertise a much lower cost. People see that it works, and they buy, only to find that the scammer and their money have disappeared. Itās practically a formula.
I think Kickstarter should entice Lloyds of Londson or some other insurer to provide anti-scam insurance. That way adequate due diligence could be done by the insurer, and for some extra coin you wonāt be hung out to dry so easily.
Well, the X1C was the holy grail from a other Starā¦ 
This experience cannot be surpassed anymoreā¦
Before X1C - There was nothing in the private market that was even remotely comparable. Prusa was still up for discussion but these were people who were really into 3D, so Pro users only. There wasnāt a single hobby printer to be seen at Prusaā¦ People donated 700 USD or more for a Creality where todayās printer for 200 USD are a miracle (In the beginning there was even others than Creality and even Creality also revolutionized a lot - so by 3D you know how it loks like if a company falls in sleep).
When I hear today that people are sticking with Bambulab because they donāt want to do everything themselves again - compared to the past, weāre a long way from doing everything ourselves. Iām not saying itās easy with Bambu, but anyone who had a Printer before Bambulab can switch the printers without any hassle whenever he wants.
Iām not saying that Bambulab doesnāt have any advantages, but compared to before, itās not even remotely worth mentioning it anymoreā¦ It has its advantages, but take a look at the Wiki on how to disassemble a jet head on an H2D and tell me if there are only advantages.
Sending such a thing to the manufacturer for repair? Well, if theyāre still being praised in a year or two, then i may will talk about. If youāre convinced, and thank you for trying it out - Iāll be happy to take a look on
If the H2D is nothing (what we do not hope and do not wish for anyone), so even if it is nothing you spent far less money on an H2D than I spent on other printers that turned out to be scrap. So lets wait and see
Agreed. A Blob of Death could cost you $200 if you wanted to just replace the whole thing. Itās a version 1.0, so itās a potential area for future improvement, just as the A1 hotend was arguably an improvement over the X1 hotend.
Well, itās easy to be hard to impress and just sit on the fence. If you had to make a forced choice today, what would you buy?
There are a lot of 3D Printer delivery issues/Delays. The commen Printers are sold out until June, so weāll see what happens. The S1 Como is on its way. Co Print will probably be a Flashforge AD5X alternative, the Sovol SV08 will likely be a power hog, but itās tempting and somehow i just likeā¦ on the other hand, I have time and for sure manythings will change.
Bicycle helmets: I buy them from professionals tested by experts, but these are topics where any discussion immediately stops. Not because of you but the topic was brought up by others.
Have you guys seen this? Itās really pricey for what it is but itās a neat concept. It blows cool air through the PTFE to prevent heat creep. It says itās compatible with the X1 and P1 printers. I could be wrong but I THINK someone posted this idea here on the forum once.
Well, the idea is interesting, but I question whether such a small device could force enough chilled air through such a congested channel to make a difference. But maybe it doesnāt need to make a lot of difference, soā¦ maybe?
I didnāt read the details, but if it is using a tiny air compressor to raise enough pressure to get enough flow, the act of compression alone will raise air temperature, and need to be undone by whatever the chiller is, plus more to get to 10C. Just sayin. Not long ago I rediscovered that fact when rigging up a desiccant filament dryer.
