Strange diagonal lines

Hello,

Recently i have noticed my P1P cannot produce nice looking outer walls. I was really trying everything. Arc fitting, arachne wall generator, slowing the print down, decreasing maximum jerk, lowering volumetric flow, changing fillament, changing nozzles.

Since i was running out of ideas i tried to make a volumentric flow test (from 1 to 20). These are the results.




I have noticed the diagonal lines along the whole test. Before i take some serious maintenance actions I would like to know what may cause this.

Does anyone knows why it happens?

I am assuming you checked it, but just in case you forgot, did you check the belts for x and y axis if they are not a tad bit loose?

This is my first guess. Never had adjust them, so i do not really know how tense they should be.

There should be no slop and not too tight so that it wears down the parts. Here is how to tension the belts, from the bambu labs wiki Belt tensioning procedure | Bambu Lab Wiki

Thanks, will report if that helped.

Unfortunately not. Still the same problem.

It is always the same. Many forum that are discussing such issues, but no-one has a real solution for inconsistent extrusion on outer wall. People just coming up with standard stuff thinking that this will solve this. It is said that the main root cause could be the direct drive system but who knows. X1 has direct drive and some of the printer have it and some not.

Is the issue happening with all of your prints or just this one? Im trying to think if its a part design that is causing it or the machine itself or the settings. Try printing a small cube and a small cylinder and see if the issue is still the same. Trying to narrowing down the cause.

+1

@Felippe, How does the floor of the prints you make look?

So, what ist going on with your inconsistent extrusion? Btw, your prints do show horizontal lines and diagonal lines. Sry, I’m already frustrated with this topic :wink:

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Hello,

It’s nice to see that I’m not the only one struggling with this issue. I have exactly the same irregularities in the printout (with multiple printers). Is there anyone in the community who can show a picture where this problem is not visible? Apparently, it doesn’t seem to occur with all printers, but I somehow don’t believe that. I assume FDM-parts always look irregular under overhead lighting?
Please proof me wrong!

Best regards.

Sorry for the wait, i was trying to make these prints work. :))
So, what i did which made my prints look better:

  • Level the bed manually (i have noticed the bed corrects z height a lot during single layer. But that didnt change after the leveling. I thing i just have a bit warped bed)
  • Fine tuned new materials (from different supplier. Before i used Spectrum Filaments, now i use fiberlogy)
  • I started to print with orca slicer and started using the precise wall function. Which i read that ensures that outer wall does not overlaps the inner wall that much.

aaaand i think i am closer to the quality i wanted to achieve than before. But the problem is not completely gone.

The main reason i have created this post is that i want to make pots with my design.
I am printing with this machine for about 3 months. And couldn’t see these problems before.

The outer wall of the pots looks like this in the slicer.


and i was starting to wonder if printer may shake too much making those turns and make the inconsistency. Then i replaced the anty vibration feets with stock one but that did not make a difference.

These are the results of over night printing. (the overextrusion on the bottom is avoidable. Ignore it :slight_smile: )



Not great not terrible, Lines are almost not visible in most situations. But as shown in the picture above. They can be visible.

I do not have another printer to test if it is P1P problem. The only thing i can think of right now is to slow the print down. Which i will try to do.

I do have another P1P though :smiley:
Print quality is almost the same. (Blue one is made with second P1P)

The second P1P was bought about 2 months after the first one. And the only difference i noticed between those two is that the second one is a bit quieter when autobed leveling (the tapping on the bed), the texture on the bed sheet was a bit different, and i think it came with camera, led, and the upgraded cable for head. So i they are basically the same.

The overall print is really good. Good layer adhesion, Does not leak water. Walls are really strong. Dimensions are quite right. Just the goddamn lines.

To add some technical information:

  • Print is made with 0.4 nozzle harden steel

  • Temp is 220. (suggested 210-230 by factory)

  • Bed 65.

  • Flow set by instructions in orca slicer

  • Pressure advance also

  • The main part (above 1cm of the bed) has layer time which varies from 50.5 to 53s.

  • Fan speed is almost the same 89-90% (through each layer)

  • Inner layer - 137 mm/s (same through all layers)

  • Outer layer - 112 mm/s (same through all layers)

  • Flow varies between 15.17-15.25 mm^3/s.

I do not have enough knowledge to tell if these variations in flow or layer time could give these results. But they seem to be really low.

I wanted to make sure if filament was at blame here, so i made the test with bambu pla basic and got the same results. (the max flow test, and the diagonal lines)

I think i will go with it. My ideas for how to improve the quality has gone down to “slow down the print”. I think i have used every possible option in orca slicer.

But i am open for any suggestions. :slight_smile:

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Ticket with same topic was created weeks ago, but no “real” solution was presented.

Well thats unfortunate. Maybe @BambuLab should take a look :wink:

Have you check the K value? I bet the one printer is off on it from the other.

Yea, i have tried to set pressure advance from orca and bambu studio.

Any progress made so far?

Nah. Did everything i could. But precise wall does a good job. Probably slowing down would too. But it would make the buisness not profitable.

Told you, there is unf. none with a proper solution for that manner