Successful Prints

This is a nice model

Easy to print and the designer put it together extremely well for a print in place STL file

X1C, bambu black sparkle PLA, textured BL plate no glue, layer hight 0.2mm infill 8% Gyroid, nozzle temp 220, PA and FR values used over Lidar PA, bed temp 60° (ignore the warning it puts up)

Very easy print probably even with the factory default settings


Here’s another easy print for when you just want that printer to work

It’s a big one so 2 pieces but a great example of a very well thought out yet simple stl

Mexh Solutions PLA+ white

Paint tree supports under the elbows
3 interface layers
0.2mm layer hight
3 walls
Gyroid infil 8%
220 nozzle
60 bed temp

If I remember correctly total print time for the top and bottom is about 6 hours
Aaaaaaaand here is the file…

6 Likes

One of my favorite prints. I did two of them. It’s a two part print. The base takes about 2.5 days and the dragon head is 3 and a few hours, Ziro & BL silks outer wall 30 and inner wall of 50.




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I really like that skull droid.

I’m thinking I might try the outer part in the metallic filament and the inside in the CF-PLA stuff.

Not sure, I think I’ll make that a weekend project.

Model Link

Printer: X1C
Filament: Bambu PLA
Print Time: Roughly 2 days or so.
Plate: Cold Plate
Nozzle: 0.4mm
Layer Height: 0.08
Infill: 15-20%

First FDM project I’ve undertaken, I also don’t know how to paint so this has been a good learning process to take away from.

I have more parts for half an additional Mando’ for more practice to learn different techniques.

I’m also planning on printing the speederbike that artist also modeled to fit together as a diorama, next month or so as budget eases.

I have a fair bit of experience in SLA printing but I was lured into the concept of the X1C over the months of watching the kickstarter and finally hit the order button this month.

The ugly:

I had a hell of time with organic supports and the X1C on this 10" model.

I went through a spool of silver PLA for this model (and the spare parts), with the filament spool being poorly manufactured to the point it jammed over three times in one single print.

The rest of the issues reside in using the auto slice settings for the supports and using the Organic(strong/Hybrid etc) setting.

The trees do not have substantial surface area for bed adhesion and the speed of the printer plus your infill methods equates to erratic model vibrations, to the point it’s clear they are causing lots of miniscule collisions and otherwise generating a poor condition for printing.

The trees also generate randomly in the brim of the main model, naturally. But this generation can oftentimes cutoff the brim from generating further into a fan angle the brim obstructs, from the concentric point outwards of the model core.

I went through that entire spool and it’s miss-manufacturing with the intent on doing as many controlled experiments as possible while still trying to maintain successful prints.

My conclusion, with standard FDM printing:
upwards of 90% of my errors were within the first 25 layers of printing, the rest were from poor support placement, discounting the filament getting pulled tight into a knot on multiple occasions, causing stress marks/abrasion dust all over the spool.
No thanks to the AMS cyclically repeating the same function expecting different results as I am literally there watching it and can’t do anything to stop the process. Multiple knots.

I ended up yanking the filament out while it was retracting the last time, I was done with that nonsense.

If you’ve read this far, thanks for listening.

The general applied solution to this entire bed adhesion problem is to, slow the printer down, study the supports well especially for Organic type, and increase your brim. First layer is often the most critical moment, I went to extremes to ensure first layer success by slowing the print and travel speeds to even as low as 10mm/s. This may sound extreme, but I’d rather wait an extra 1-2% time than have to reprint and waste material.

If Bambu is listening, we need an option to cancel AMS jam cycle so you can manually handle the situation if you happen to be there please. It would also behoove you to please take a look at automatic support generation (Organic). The supports defaults are what I would consider lackluster and prone to failures. It would also be keen to allow us to adjust the brim diameter of the organic tree supports, for a small single support scenario that setting is a must and paramount to a good foundation.

Thank you anyone for taking the time to read my post

Also, I love my Bambu!

8 Likes

Here is my first full IM helmet on the X1C. This is without any sanding. Totally amazing compared to what used to come off my Creality printers!

Regards
Josh

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AND…just finished building my second pit droid. Other half has asked me how many I am intending building :slight_smile: I suggested that I think I need another 998 to take over the world :grinning:

Regards

Josh

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Print-in-place fire truck, with spinning wheels and folding ladder (with “kickstand” to keep it upright). Right off the build plate, everything moved smoothly.

Flippy Ladder Firetruck - Filament Stories and HotMakes by Clockspring3D | Download free STL model | Printables.com


7 Likes

Model link for the snake, please

This is a less expensive way to make Lithophanes on Bambu Labs X1CC.




https://www.printables.com/model/384487-ash-cat-lithophane

This is about 13 hrs. to print. Printed with creality PLA filament black and white 0.08 Layer hight 0.4 nozzle at 45 degree bed temp 220 degree nozzle temp.

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Having great luck with this swivel modification on the filament guide. Don’t mind the broken spool, it rolled off the table and snapped.



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This one looks really good. Can you please share the link for this mod?

1 Like

Hello,
In the morning when I get back to my office, I would love to share it. I remade it into a solid model and designed it to swivel using a heat sert threaded for a 6-32 and a standard machine screw.

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I created a profile on Printables with all the information, I included the Solidworks file and STL.

https://www.printables.com/model/501121-horizontal-spool-holder-with-swivel-endguide

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I have a print that will probably take almost two days that I’m working on. Putting a placeholder here for good luck.

Back soon I hope :open_mouth:

Update
Painting the model in studio took a lot of time! I really like how it turned out but it also left me wanting for a dual extruder. Dual extruder would’ve probably cut the print time by 70% is my guess, and waste! Printed in Overture and Polymaker ASA



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Thank you, @Bear ! It worked like a charm.

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Hi All,

Few more from me. loving the X1C!
Josh



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Pretty cool and yeah I agree, the AMS def needs some major tuning… it just takes waaaaay too long

BL CF-PLA and Metallic PLA for eyes.


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P1P Pegboard Mod Complete. Had to do some modifications in Solidworks prior to printing, but all went well. 0.15 Layer height, 15% infill, and all with supports. I manufactured all missing hardware in my CNC Swiss lathe. Now time to start printing peg accessories.



This is the cutout for the Top rear piece where people utilize filament guides. I added these in Solidworks and then printed so it could incorporate of other upgrades I made to the P1P.

6 Likes

Great prints! How many parts was it and how do you stick together?

Josh