Feathers Artwork by 3DPrintBunny | Download free STL model | Printables.com
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Hi All,
Inspired by the photos above I printed this. Pug, waiting in the rain. Made it for my daughter who is off to Uni cause she will miss our Pugs. She loves it. Not my model.
Josh
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And this one is for me 
My wife keeps asking “Why?” I just blame the printer making it too easy so “Why not”. 
Josh
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Got almost unbelievable results on a TPU print today as never before. Fell in love with flow calibration once again. Just a littel adjustment of the profile geomentry and it will work but then with two against one sealing lips. Extremely happy that brittle seals can now be replaced quickly (without a long search, just 10-20 minutes of drawing work…).
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Nice, I can think of a couple places I could use something similar.
What did you use for support material?
As Supportmatirial i use TPU shore 98A as well - So everything on the external feed without AMS. I set the printer speed down to 150mm/s on the outside and inside walls (which I anyway still do a lot). So I was very surprised that I could remove the TPU as a support very easy. I chose wall thickness of 0.8mm with a nozzle of 0.4mm.
The stiffening circled in red still has to come out, otherwise it’s very difficult to get it into the joint. For everything else - first drawing, first print and goal… Calculate with strings at the beginning and end, so it must be shortened by at least 1-2 cm (0.5 to 1 inch) in total length.
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The corner lifted a tiny bit. Its just for halloween anyway though. Also a few strings sagged in the rear. Difficult print at this size because each string is actually 2 layers thick.
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Here is a Christmas ornament print of Angels that are actually Angles.
I thought it was worth posting because I figured out some difficult problem that others might encounter. This print has embossed letters on flat surfaces. The problem is this: to the slicer, most of the flat surface is “top layer” whereas the part under the embossed letters is not. So they are treated differently. So the flat surface just below the letters is not printed in a single continuous zig-zag. Instead, the area under the letters gets its own “wall” etc, and then the remaining top surface is printed around that, which leads to many discontinuities and interruptions in the head movement. With some filaments (such as PLA Matte) those discontinuities are not noticeable. However, PLA Silk is so shiny that these discontinuities really show up as very noticeable “scars” in the final print. Attached is example photo with a scar, and then the successful print without the scar.
I finally figured out how to do this, as in the attached .3mf file. Basically, it came down to four things:
(1) I redesigned the model so that everything was exactly an integer number of layers (in this case, 0.2mm). That way, the transition from flat surface to embossed letter occurs at a layer break.
(2) I changed the upper 3 layers of the top surface to be their own body (in fusion 360 you can export .3mf, then import geometries to Bambu Studio, and the shape will consist of multiple bodies).
(3) I changed the profile for the top-surface body to have more than 3 solid BOTTOM layers. That way, when the slicer gets to the top flat surface, it still thinks it is printing “solid infill”, and not a top layer. See slicer view colored by line type. That way it doesn’t “look ahead” and see the letters and freak out.
(4) For reasons unknown to me, this only worked when I set that section to 1 Wall instead of 2 Walls.
(I was going to attach the .3mf file with all this, but I don’t find a way to attach a file to a post on this forum. If you want to see exact settings, contact me.)
EDIT: now Bambu started a model site, so I posted it over there
https://makerworld.com/en/u/3613328708
Another problem is that at first I could see the infill pattern along the sides of the box. I couldn’t solve this except by making the made the box sides solid. With that, there is no infill pattern to leak through, and the sides are mirror-smooth. Again, this is not an issue with almost any filament, but PLA Silk is so shiny that in the right light you can see the underlying infill pattern, if there is one (through the standard 2 Walls, and even more).
Printer used – Bambu X1C
Filament used – mix of Bambu PLA Silk and Bambu PLA Matte
Model link – I posted this at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6192373**, but that was before I made everything integer layers heights as described above.**
Print settings – It’s complicated, as described above.
Print time – on these settings the box is about 3hours, the other plates about 1.5 hours. This is mainly due to slower settings for Bambu PLA silk as recommended here: Printing with silk filaments | Bambu Lab Wiki
Worked great, but it does extend the print time. Also PLA Silk looks best with more solid layers, which also extends print time and filament usage.
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Printer used Bambu Lab Carbon X1 with AMS
Filament used Generic PLA
Model link Bambu Lab mouse
Print settings Standard Bambu Studio settings but with 3 walls and 3 tops / bottoms
Print time 4 hours
Used Glow in the dark PLA for the inside bit. Came out pretty awsome if you ask me.
Still waiting for the hardware unfortunately.
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I got a mouse kit coming! Can’t wait.
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I just completed this awesome 3D printed “Split-Flap Display” Project by David Kingsman: Printables
More pictures an details on my blog: Nostalgie pur – Fallblattanzeige selbst bauen - MakerHome
See and hear (!) it in action on my IG channel: https://www.instagram.com/makerhome.de
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Had some down time over the weekend. Printed this mmss system. Can be found on makerworld, printables etc. Most of my prints are fixtures, jigs, mounts, functional parts. But when i do print something like this, ill always try and share.
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Made this LEGO Style storage container yesterday. Printed it overnight and this morning found my printer did an awsome job!
Printed on X1C with AMS using generic Yellow and BBL Black and White PLA
I published the model on Makerworld here: https://makerworld.com/en/models/59109
Let me know what you think!
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