I bought the textured build plate and here are some of things I have experienced with it.
Adhesion is awful, if you dont use the glue stick you can forget about having a succesful print.
I have found I get about 3 or 4 prints out of it before I have to put in the original build plate that came with the machine, and run the calibration, then everything starts printing good again. The textured plate for me goes wonky after a couple prints, and the calibration doesnt help, but re-calibrating with the original plate fixes it. Maybe it is just my machine, but this is my experience.
Same for me. I use the engineering plate for recalibration. I took off the cool plate sticker. I didnt like the way it performed. So i have a real dual sided engineering plate.
Not really. It works well here. Calibration included. However, you have selected the correct type in the slicer ? Additonally you could check the start/end code that you can find at printables. It adds somehat more squish so that filament sticks better, case need. Other people have mentioned that increasing bed temp to 60 or so will help as well.
I switched 1 week after receiving my X1CC from the cold plate ( I don’t like that glue handling, which wasn’t required on my MK3) to the textured plate and only experienced bad 1st layer adhesion when I selected the wrong bed type in the slicer. I treat the textured plate every 3-4 runs with 99% IPA and all my prints are coming out fine.
The only times I’m a bit more careful is if there is not alot of surface between the print and the bed - but some rounds of that brim/skirt hybrid in the slicer helped there as well.
What type of material are you printing?
The main benefit of the textured sheet is lowered adhesion to PETG, which otherwise sticks a bit too well. It’s not so good for PLA, though you can make it work. I really loved Prusa’s “Satin” sheet, which worked well for everything.
I was thinking a soft toothbrush might help, but I haven’t tried it yet on a build plate yet. But for getting resin flux off a PCB, the combo of IPA spray and soft toothbrush works great. Blowing off the excess with compressed air seems to help as well, as compared to letting it dry back onto the build plate.
I’ve really struggled with the textured build plate when printing any kind of Polymaker PLA. I’ve set the temp to 60C, cleaned the plate with 99% IPA, pre-heated the plate to 70C then printed at 60C. Tried turning off the Aux fan.
I’ve had things come loose at the first layer. Come loose after several layers. I’ve had some PLA prints work just fine. Haven’t quite found the the right set of tweaks to make it work consistently.
Worked great for PETG. But I might be back to the Cold plate for PLA, which is too bad, I really liked not having to deal with glue on every print. The textured plate is really convenient when I can get a print to stick.
Have you tried washing it with really hot water and a tiny bit of dish soap and a clean sponge? That’s what I do every week or so and rarely have adhesion issues. I also use 99% IPA every few prints or if I accidentally touch the bed. If I’m going to print something with a large bottom surface area, or another small part that may come loose I add a brim. Sometimes brim with 0mm gap so it really holds on, it’s easy enough to clean up.
Just to make sure your bambu studio is using at least 55c for the textured bed? One other thing you could try is bumping that up to 60c, that’s what I did with my mk3s+ when I had adhesion issues. Heck I usually just run textured or smooth pei at 60c, sometimes 65c on my mk3s so avoid any adhesion problems.
There’s so many variables and complexity within printing plastic that you can’t always expect one setting to do it all
I use 65c on both the P1P and the 1X Carbon with the texture PEI plate… prints perfect every time…
the other thing is to make sure to calibrate your machine every time you switch plates and make sure to select the correct one in the slicer…
It’s always interesting when different people get different results using the same material.
I’ve found the textured sheet to be absolute magic with PLA. Everything sticks to it perfectly with no corner lifting, and when the print is done, the objects nearly jump off the sheet by themselves.
I have had good experiences too up until the extruder gets clogged. At first I thought it was the nozzle but it was clear. Took off the extruder and disassembled it. Pulled out a hunk of filament stuck in there and all was good again. I have had to do this 4 times already.
From what I have read, the textured plate needs to be hotter than the normal plate. For whatever reason they tell you to keep the door open so that the filament doesn’t get too hot. It even warns you when you raise the bed temperature to more than 50 degrees C that it could cause clogs. This has been my experience even with the door left open. I have a love/hate relationship with my textured bed.
Oh yeah I forgot to mention in my post, I also use printed pieces that hold the top glass open for venting, I think this helps me never get any clogs when printing with PLA and the textured plate. I always close the door, but it gets good venting from up top.
You want to adjust the z offset if you are using the textured plate.
At this to your start gcode:
;===== for Textured PEI Plate, High Temp Plate and Wham Bam Plate ===============
;curr_bed_type={curr_bed_type}
{if curr_bed_type==“Textured PEI Plate”}
G29.1 Z-0.04 ;squish of -0.04mm for Textured PEI Plate
{elsif curr_bed_type==“High Temp Plate”}
G29.1 Z0.03 ;raise of 0.03mm for High Temp or Wham Bam Plate
{endif}
This code runs at the start of the print. If the plate type selected when slicing is the textured PEI plate, it sets the Z offset of the probe .04 mm lower to “squish” the filament a bit more on the first layer. If the plate type is “High Temp Plate” (which is what one uses with the Wham Bam PEX plate), the Z offset of the probe is raised .03mm for less squish, as it’s a smooth plate that doesn’t need as much squish.
Blowing off the excess with compressed air seems to help as well, as compared to letting it dry back onto the build plate.