Must use glue-stick with any print. Otherwise it’s excellent. Tried all configs and variations; need glue.
I highly recommend getting some magic erasers. I wipe mine with one between prints and the adhesion is great everytime. I only use IPA or soap/water maybe once a month. Ive been trying to spread the word for months now, but its slow to take off i guess. It also works for my wham bam PEX and matterhackers layerlock.
@Jazzeras Which one of the magic erasers do you use? Explore Magic Erasers Cleaning Products | Mr Clean®
I presume it works on the same principle that applying talc powder works.
Glue because of adhesion or difficulties to release object when ready ?
Glue to prevent adhesion issues. Failure print rate close to 75% without first applying glue. Tried different settings and PLA filaments brands and types.
Compared to stock plates, primary benefit of textured plate I’ve personally experienced is the incredibly easy release.
My theory is that its breaking oils and contaminants free from the surface because the melamine is like a fine glass, then the foam structure absorbs any moisture or oils. All i know for sure is its been working
Thanks for the advice. Did not try yet.
What type of PLA do you use?
Actually, I’ll look at the forum, but I am interested in some kind od PLA (even if it is expensive) where all colors perform well and also if some profiles are available.
@Marinero If you’re looking for easy–and it sounds like you are–then either Bambulab PLA or PolyTerra PLA or PolyLite PLA, because there already exist tweaked profiles in the BambuLab slicer for those brands. In the USA store the Bambulab PLA is out of stock, but you can get the other two on amazon or other sources.
Many colors were in stock when I looked about an hour ago.
Printing with PLA & PLA + I’ve had great adhesion with the texture plate except for a few instances those being either selecting the wrong plate in slicer, small footprint prints I should have used a brim, or some filament I needed to up the temps on. I have the P1P and the X1 and the temps for the P1P are about 10 degrees higher for the textured plate compensating for the open design. I prefer the textured plate over the cool plate since I don’t apply glue and I love the texture it adds to the print over the smooth texture of the cool plate.
The main purpose of the textured PEI plate is to work with high adhesion filaments like PA-CF, ABS and PETG which will sooner or later destroy the engineering plate regardless if the glue stick is used or not as they all stick to well and the top surface will be ripped of. Not a question if, just when. It is not the best one for PLA though. In my opinion, anyway it makes no sense to use PLA as it is brittle and not umidity resistant and will deform too easy. I never used it and solely work with PETG.
I use the engineering plate for ABS and PETG. No glue! It pops off just like texture PEI after it cools on my work table. I use the oem presets. I use the textured PEI when i want the texture look. It just works for me.
I received my official Bambulab textured PEI build plate today, and my first impression after a singe use is… AWESOME! PETG adheres when the build plate is hot but releases easily after it has cooled down. No bothersome PETG residual stuck to the plate like the outline in a crime scene.
Roughly how many prints do these textured PEI build plates generally last for until they need replacing with a new one?
I’ve had zero adhesion issues with PLA or PETG on the textures sheet that came with my P1P. Everything has stuck perfectly and no warping yet on larger pieces. I liked the satin sheet that I got for my Prusa but I had infinitely more adhesion issues with PLA on that. I haven’t cleaned my textured plate yet in case that makes a difference.
Following a few prints with my PEI plate the prints started lifting. I took the plate off and washed it with dishwashing liquid and warm water. Prints sticking to the plate again and no lost prints. My biggest problem is from my fingers touching the build plate accidently, a visible shine appears on the plate wherever you touch the plate and this is the main cause of adhesion being lost.
The textured PEI plate is good for easy prints as long as you can keep it clean. I’ve found that increasing the bed temperature 5-10C higher than default helps with adhesion, too.
For my important prints I still use the cold plate or engineering plate with glue stick. The finish is nicer, calibration more predictable, and it’s really not much effort to set it up.
It’s good to have both. If I could only have one plate, I’d prefer the dual-sided cold/engineering plate with glue stick