I have two of the textured PEI build plates. That way, as soon as a print finishes, I can remove the plate to let it cool on a table and then slam in the second plate to begin printing again without waiting.
IPA is only a solvent to grease, so if you only apply IPA and just let it dry, the grease is after disolving of IPA again thereā¦
You must apply IPA and wipe with a clean cloth. This soakes up the solvent to the cloth. Use this procedure twice and you have a clean degreased plateā¦
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So far my heated textured plate works fine on PLA, PETG and TPU. I always run the bed at 5 degree higher first layer than the rest of the layers. The only thing that screwed up the first layer was the upgrade of the printer firmware - required a new calibration to stop the damn blobbing.
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What kind of āblobbingā do you mean?
See the images of white filament at Is there a way to rollback the P1P firmware update? - #2 by Aurelian
@ovendoor Iām not seeing that on the X1C. To me that sounds like a P1P problem, not a textured plate problem per se. Of course, there is a separate issue that plate alignment on the X1C isnāt easy to get right, and I donāt know what effect a misalignment might have. Nothing good, Iām sure.
If you look at the default gcode in Bambu Studio youāll see that this code already exists. Itās been there since 1.4.
So I donāt think adding it again will do anything.
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I donāt think this will do anything. Look at the existing gcode in Bambu Studio, this is already there and has been since 1.4.
I just received the double-sided textured plate and gave it a test with PETG, using a rather small print (āCaliCatā). Overall the print was fine - no blobbing or stringing, but it did lift from the bed in the front. Didnāt come loose, though. The prime and calibration lines pulled off without effort.
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Mine came today, and some slight lifting of parts in centre, thatās repeating. Just cleaned with alcohol and wiped twice with clean cloth, so hoping the model stays put now. Prime and calibration lines easily detached like yours, much better than Engineering plate and glue (Dimafix spray). I quite like the surface texture, maybe combined with fuzzy skin 
FWIW, Iāve had no bed detachment issues myself. Maybe it depends on the nature of the print or something. If you had a photo of what detached, and could post it here, it might inform the discussion as to what is going wrong.
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I never used Glue yetā¦ double check the bed temp is right, also calibrate machine and do a cali in the filament and selected the best oneā¦ mine seem to always be0.0020 or 0.0025 if the nozzle is to far it can cause a issue,without lidar you need to cal the nozzle manually, very easy, i printed 100 prints in 6 weeks on the P1P without a failure yetā¦and no glueā¦ my only issue is to many machines and to many types of plate and filament typesā¦ a few operator errorsā¦ WHOOPS did i do that again.
i have used the texture plate on the P1P and the X1C carbon with no issues, i do turn of the flow calibration, so far so good, for me it the one plate i have the least issues withā¦I refuse to use glue or hair sprayā¦
most failure to stick is either bed temp needs to be higher, fan speed at start to high or nozzle to far awayā¦
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My Bambu textured plate is trash too. The only āPEIā textured plate I need glue stick on, and I need it for every print or they fall off. It has to be fake PEI or something.
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You keeping arguing like that. Proof it or leave it. There are many, many users with good experience with the textured plate.
Why in the world would I need to prove anything? There are also many users with a bad experience with the textured plate, as evidenced by the title of this thread. Like I said beforeā¦ youāre really somethin else.
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I bet that in all of the cases the āproblemā is the user. Simply because it does work here. X1C, textured plate, PLA, PETG, TPU etc i.e. no difference in hardware. Latest Studio with the gcode insertion, which procvides better squish - select correct plate in slicer, etc. - I have seen many people using Acetone to clean the bed (bad thing), I heard of people not taking off the plastic cover (if there was one), bad thing, I read people not properly cleaning and getting rid of finger prints, fatty stuff on the plate, bad thing. There are a lot of things to do.
;===== for Textured PEI Plate , lower the nozzle as the nozzle was touching topmost of the texture when homing ==
;curr_bed_type={curr_bed_type}
{if curr_bed_type==āTextured PEI Plateā}
G29.1 Z-0.04 ; for Textured PEI Plate
{endif}
And that response is exactly what I expected from you, user error, couldnāt possibly be a defective product from your beloved company. I know what Iām doing, and my problem was fixed by nothing other than using aftermarket plates. Iām not trying to prove anything to a person like you, Iām just letting the OP know he isnāt alone. If I say anything else Ciprian will say Iām a naughty boy.
It is for sure not my beloved company. But I hate these general statements like āIt has to be fake PEI or something.ā and stuff like that. If you have a problem with that plate, open a ticket and otherwise, let other people try to help clear the situation, but not with those assumptions of yours and no help at all. And what I have written is MY knowledge of stuff that occured when users where wondering about the plate and it did show that things could be rectified.
no mention of material, temps, speeds, cleaning procedure, size of objects, etc. If you are just venting say so.
I can run PLA all day on textured plates and things pop right off as soon as i flex it. no glue, no hassle. PLA, 220 noz, 60c start bed, 58c for duration to get closer to glass transition temp and avoid curled corners. Clean with isopropyl. scuff lightly with steel wool if you cant figure it out any other way. But be warned PETG will pull off the coating if you scuff.