I had shared the following in MakerWorld Community as an article but wanted to post it here as well in case it’s helpful to anyone.
This is a breakdown of the process I used when taking photos for a recent project and includes information on the equipment used, how it was set up & the processing steps I used. I was happy with the results but there’s always room for improvement - I’m open to feedback!
The challenge
When planning the photos, there were a few challenges that I knew I’d need to solve for:
- Large scale (by far the largest I’ve posted) which needs to be accounted for in the horizontal image format for MakerWorld.
- Two versions of the model are available with slightly different qualities - one with harp strings and one that’s decorative.
- The model includes interior lighting that may not be as visible in some lighting conditions.
Because of these challenges, I decided to photograph the model in two lighting setups. This made for more work but ensured that I’d be able to highlight the features and would also provide some differentiation between the versions.
I believe that lighting can have the most significant impact on photos so I’ll be focusing on that equipment although I’ll note that these photos were taken with a 24-105mm lens on a Canon R6 Mk. II body.
Exterior (Natural Light) Setup
Taking the photos outdoors added some atmosphere but also introduced a challenge: trying to make sure that the model didn’t blend into the busy background. Much of the placement and lighting were chosen in attempt to solve for this.
- Placement: so that I didn’t have to be down on the ground, I ‘faked’ the ground by adding some leaves onto a small table. Don’t worry, I cleaned it afterward

- Atmosphere: because I was outdoors, I used a small smoke machine (like what you’d have at a party). Adding smoke was both for atmosphere but also to try and add a visual element to separate the model from the background.
- Lighting
- Key Light: Godox Ad200 with a MagMod Snoot attachment. This is the primary light source for the photo and is at about a 45 degree angle. The snoot allows me to limit the light to a specific area without lighting the model evenly.
- Fill Light: although not at a traditional angle for a fill light, I used an on-camera strobe (with a diffuser) to trigger the Ad200 and also to provide a small amount of general fill.
- Highlight: to highlight specific parts of the model and to compensate for some deep shaows, I hand-held a Lume Cube light with a snoot to add some light to the base of the skull.
- Back Light: to highlight the rim of the model I used a Lume Cube on a tripod directly behind the model. Given that I was taking the photo in daylight (and these cube lights aren’t too bright) the effect wasn’t as significant as I was aiming for.
Interior (Controlled Light) Setup
So that that lights in the interior of the model would be more visible, I used a longer exposure for these photos with the camera on a tripod. Taking the photos indoors allowed for me to bounce light onto a wall which provided a background color gradient.
- Key Light: I positioned the model near an exterior window so that it was receiving a fair amount of diffused light from the side.
- Fill Light: diffused, on-camera strobe in addition to a handheld Lume Cube to pick up details.
- Back Light: to color the background, I I used a quick hack: wrapping a Maker’s Supply RBG Strip Light around a paper towel spool and then securing it with gaffer tape. This allowed me to choose the color for my background and also alternate it for some of the detail shots.
Processing
The photos were all taken in RAW format which provided the most flexibility and range when editing. I processed the photos first in Lightroom, then in Photoshop and finally in Affinity Designer.
Lightroom
Overall, in Lightroom I’m adjusting to ensure that highlights and shadows aren’t clipping (being solid white or black) while correcting colors, sharpening, reducing noise and removing and dust spots or unintended elements such as light stands.
Images are exported as JPGs without any cropping applied as this will be completed at a later stage.
Photoshop
Having completed the image edits in Lightroom, I use Photoshop to combine multiple exposures. This can be helpful for moving elements like smoke but also when using non-fixed (or handheld) lights. Also, I did some basic dodging, burning and final color correction.
Affinity Designer
So that I can keep all of my model images and assembly instructions organized, I contain them all within a single Affinity Designer file. This allows me to apply cropping and add any overlays such as text.
Through Affinity, you can choose the Export persona and export all of your images at once at the end of the process.
Conclusion
As stated at the beginning, I always have room to learn and hope to hear any feedback you might have. Likewise, I hope that some of this information might give some ideas for your next photo shoot!