The Ultimate MakerWorld Photography Guide

I actually baked some cinnamon rolls for the background on one of mine.

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Uhuh, just for the background, I’m sure :wink:

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As soon as they came out of the oven, I had to start defending them and take my pictures quickly.

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Got a link to this, is it a modular block system or is that a pre-made item

I designed it modularly in software for flexibility, but the final product is a print-in-place model for the user. Cinnamon Roll Flexigrid by jetpad - MakerWorld

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first thing at all, it´s not the camera, it’s the Head behind it. You don´t need Camera Equipment $5000+, all you need is a Camera (for most things a smart phone is 1st choice, because you own it already and you have it with you most of the time). I know what I´m talking about because I own Camera Equipment for $30000 +. Photography = painting with light. Most of the Images are posted Social Media or on Web Sites, that means, maybe on my calibrated Screen it looks nice, but on yours it´s to much blue or red. And low cost doesn´t mean it turns out bad. use a simple LED Panel for 20$ get a diffusor for 5$ in front of it and it works , use a background like described in the original post and you are fine. after all of that it´s just your creativity to do amazing Images with low cost Equipment. use white Styrodor for a few $ to build bigger boxes, you also can paint them to get special effects. If you own a expensive Camera Equipment and at least you know how to use it, makes it easier and you should use it.

Yes, all of that was covered in my original post and by many others in this thread.

Ok the whole colour space thing is really confusing me.

  • So I have a bunch of pics which I processed through Darktable, exported with the sRGB tag. They all look OK.
  • I take one pic, process it through Canva to add some text, export it with the sRGB tag, looks OK when I view it on my computer - on Canva as well as using Irfanview.
  • I upload both types of pics on to MW. They both look fine & consistent on the iPhone app (see here). The browns look similar for example.
  • I view the 2 types of pics that I’ve uploaded on MW on Windows, Firefox - the pics that got processed through Canva looks more vibrant - the brown looks more orange-y. What gives?

As I write this, I noticed that I exported out of Darktable as JPG Canva as PNG. But the colours look fine on the iPhone and Irfanview so either the browser or MW is doing something wrong I think.

Anyone have any clues?

Makerworld is compressing photos using lossy compression whoch affects reds (less bytes for that). Download both the vovrant and non vibrant ones and compare. Maybe png doesn’t get affected as much? Will have to test since washed out reds annoy me.

I have experienced similar issues: any model image I import into Makerworld becomes slightly darker. My fix is to run it through Photopea until it is unnaturally bright, which allows Makerworld to bring it down to the right level of lighting.

Also, how is my new model image: Print-in-Place Pickup Truck - Froggydog9. Is it too dark, too grainy? Any feedback would be helpful.

Overall it’s ok, but I do think the lighting needs some improvement. I am also struggling with having a proper lighting set up. I think you need to diffuse your light source(s) a bit. It currently feels like you’re illuminating everything with a top light that is too close and too direct.

I’m half-joking…

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Overall it’s good. The background looks much more blue compared to your other models. I just made a quick white balance correction, horizon straightening, and slightly increased the exposure.

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Well, at least the kid has 5 fingers, that’s something :wink:

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The blue was a result of taking the photo in sunlight on a rainy day (more like a rainy month). Your cleaned up version looks awesome! Could I use the image for my model cover? Also, what image editing software did you use?

When you say “diffuse your light sources”, does that mean I should increase the light shining down upon the object and darken the area around? I know diffuse means to spread over a wide area, but should the lighting be equal in all parts of the area?

Sure, you can use it if you want. I usually use Gimp (which is free and sufficient for basic editing, I also make gifs and retouch photos in it).

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So, I used to work with big studio setups, like Profoto strobes with softboxes, reflectors, umbrella’s and infinity walls. Now, since I am also making a lot of miniature things, I was thinking that I wanted the same huge soft lights, but in scale with my miniatures.

I had some very small LED lamps laying around that are being used for bringing light effects in video sometimes, and I thought… These would be huge softboxes compared to a small model.

Then I was thinking that normal fixtures, like the spigots used on C-stands in my studio, would be way to big, but I wanted the same flexibility to turn around and move the lamps for my small miniature studio. That’s how I came up with the grid based floor, with lamps that then have 360 degrees of freedom all the way around.

But then I thought, sometimes I use scrims to even soften the light from the softboxes more. Or even a tent around a product, when I am doing product photography. How about making that tent also for the mini studio?

And then I thought about another hobby I have, collecting coins and stamps. Especially with coins, moving the light is tricky, a small change makes a big difference. I wanted a way to photograph coins right from above, with perfect light, even with scrims and flags when needed… I came up with this:

And the fun part is, everything is modular, so adding more or changing things, it’s easy. If I ever need a bright highlight, like for jewelery photography, with diamonds or other stones, it can be added without any problem.

And the results… Well, I just love them:

Of course this picture is edited, and I added a background in it, but the basic photo of the flask was already good. This mini studio really add’s to the possibilities I now have. And it’s all just 200mm cubed in size.

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That’s an incredible setup!

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