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Bad Adhesion because of the poor quality bed heater they use potentially

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Simply because the video is centered around the initial review of the printer not about how to print that particular model. If support failed on a bunch of other models, yes this would be more important to address as it would be a broader problem.

If you need a theory of what happened, my guess is that there was some fingerprints on the bed which caused the little tree support to detach mid print and lead to the overhang problem. Another theory is that the door was open for the camera time lapse and the air movement in the room cooled the front tree support and popped it off of the bed.

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Okay that all makes more sense.

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I go with the fingerprint theory :sweat_smile:
As tell my kids: Never leave evidence, never mind putting it in the vid :rofl:

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The improved accuracy from the vision plate calibration will hopefully enable better part fitment regardless of orientation. I know from measuring for shrinkage compensation on my X1C that there was some slop in the X1C mechanics, because the measured shrinkage in X was different from the measured shrinkage in Y. If the vision plate calibration works, that difference should be less.

Those built-in benchies aren’t sliced according to the rules. You show up at the speed boat races with one of those and the harbor master is going to take your captains hat and throw in in the lake.

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When it comes to pre-sliced benchies, I didn’t think there were any rules. I always thought manufacturers hand optimized the hell out of their benchy speeds as a point of pride and one-upmanship and hoped-for bragging rights, knowing that it would get reported by reviewers–because even the laziest reviewer will run the benchy, even if nothing else.

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My (2) P1S was actually verry well calibrated and “shrinking” depends on many factors. One of them is the used filament.

That calibration pad is not going to change anything on filament “shrinking”. It’s only for calibrating the print head and it’s going to change or adjust nothing about filament properties.

It should probably only calibrate/ compensate X and Y a bit (stepper motors, belt tension, wear etc.). And most of my “fitting” problems on the P1S was on the Z axis… It does not going to help there.

So for that, this vision encoder, only seems to be a bit of a verry expensive gimmick.

Why do you refer to it a gimmick? Is it not needed, or it doesn’t/can’t work as advertised, or…?

I have noticed that support surfaces suck. Will probably sell alot of support material. Or will be fixxed with slicer updates.

As it seems it should only compensate wear and tear a bit on the X and Y axis, bad calibration from the factory or loose belts etc.

Belt tensioners would already do a pretty good job in this.

And like stated, my P1S units were already calibrated pretty well on X and Y. Only had fitting issues on the Z axis. And this calibration plate is not going to calibrate anything on the Z axis.

It’s only used for calibration, and not for calibration during printing. So you will still keep factors like material (filament) properties (shrinking) and nozzle pressure etc. that will determine the precision of holes etc.
For that there will be the compensation settings in the slicer software.

And when a round hole is ovale shaped in a specific orientation, it probably indicates wear or bad belt tension. It would probably being better to solve the actual problem instead of “compensating” it with this vision plate :+1:t2:

Random thought cuz i hate the green tint on the laser model, I think im gonna buy a base model door and lid for my laser model and relay on the glasses that I use with my stand alones so its easier to see in the machine during everything else…lol. All my stand alones have been open air units so I’ve gotten used to being safe and Id rather the smoked glass (tho i prob wont touch the sides)

Its not only tinted but also cheap feeling plastic instead of glass. One of the reasons I skipped the laser as I would be using it for printing majority of the time.

Anybody know if there is a film that does the same thing as the plastic door? Like a window tint i can add to a glass door? I would love to not use the plastic. Some videos showed it wobbling around even when nobody is touching it, which means its probably ultra thin. It also scratches super easy

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Good luck with that laser cutter :upside_down_face:
https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/h2/maintenance/period-maintenance

Every three months? That doesn’t sound horrible at all

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@BambuLab when can I redeem my golden ticket?

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Good luck with just cleaning once in 3 months with laser cutting :+1:t2:

I probably already know the answer of BL after returning the printer within 12 months, within the warranty period. Probably something with lack of maintenance…

Yeah that thing is gonna get super nasty. I wouldnt even consider using the laser “for fun” but only if its making you profits cuz you’ll prob be replacing some stuff down the road more frequently than you’d wana.

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