I’m sorry to hear this isn’t the right machine for you. I seriously looked at the X2D in the spring when it released when I was looking to add a second printer to my P2S combo. I do a fair number of multi-color prints as well (3-7 colors). I was encouraged by the X2D with its extra features over the P2S. It occurred to me that the X2D would be a very good two color printer. Anything over that and the purge would start to add up.
Ultimately I decided to wait 3-4 more months and save my money and got a H2C. It was the right choice for me. It’s a heavy lift as far as price goes. This wasn’t about price for me it was about needs and capabilities. The X2D is a fine machine for certain people like the H2D would be.
Keep your X2D. Save up and get a H2C or whatever they release next in that line.
Wow, I just got my X2D in September and right away I realized how tedious switching the AMS around from each nozzle is. I print with TPU alot so with my X1C I’m used to just putting it on the external spool holder and letting it print. With the X2D I use the AMS on the left nozzle usually because when I’m not printing in TPU that one is avalible, and faster. But when I want to print with TPU I have to switch it everytime. I remember before it bought the X2D I saw the Filament Track Switch and I must have been tired or I just didn’t fully grasp how it works because I completely dismissed it. Now I understand, thanks to you, and I’m going to buy it ASAP. You’re right, that definitely should have came with the printer.
I would also consider this manual switch instead of the FTS:
Many had trouble with excessive resistance in the FTS and as soon as you have more than 2 AMS, the manual switch often is more flexible than the FTS.
And finally, with the FTS installed, you can’t bypass the FTS and the buffer anymore to directly feed TPU. You have to uninstall the FTS to direct feed again.
Another hint: the same author also has a 2-in-1 adapter that replaces the inlet into the printer. There you can attach a separate PTFE tube for feeding TPU or other material that doesn’t work in the AMS.
My AMS HT connects to the FTS. The FTS connects to my AMS Pro 2. So printing TPU is as simple as just disconnecting the cable from the AMS Pro 2. That also disconnects the HT from the printer so it makes the external feed an option for printing while allowing the HT to act as the TPU spool holder. I printed a 2-into-1 PTFE adapter so the filament buffer retains its path to the left nozzle while I also have a path for my TPU Assist to feed into the left nozzle. I am sure there is a more elegant solution but, in my case, disconnecting one cable allows my printer to be quickly set up to print TPU. I am sure it gets way more complex if running multiple AMS 2 Pro units.
This is my experience as well. My X2D has worked flawlessly since day-1. I use the aux hot-end for support or multicolor. It does great with both. I’ve told my 10-year old son that the main hot-end supposedly prints better and is definitely faster, but he says the print quality of the aux hot-end is the same with the main hot-end, and he doesn’t care about the longer print time, so if the filament he wants is in the A2P for the aux hot-end, he prints with that head.
I guess I’ll keep my fingers crossed that my X2D continues to work as well as I hoped it would.
Thank you for this information! I saw you commented something about this 4 in 2 adapter but I didn’t quite understand at first. I’ve done some research and now I think I’ll use it. I only have one AMS, and the only reason I ever need to switch it off of the left nozzle, to the aux nozzle, is when printing TPU. The 4 in 2 gives me the exact quick switch I need and then the 2 in 1 replacement is perfect so I can always have TPU ready. The user after you mentioned the ams HT, and now that I think about it, that would be a nice upgrade too. Things to think about indeed! Again, thank you!
Absolutely 100% agree with your conclusions and I share the same experience!
But you said nothing about printing TPU?
And BTW after fighting with supports for few months, I just stopped printing with separate support interface material, and I just use the good old way with using same material. Faaaar less problems and success rate since!
I can add more to the design flaws for example warping side panel in heating mode. Or all the challenges related to the control of all the fans. In addition we can also add the ever dragging against the top glass and side panels PTFE tubes. Or all jerkiness and swinging wile printing. This could be all but could not be good design! Then this complexity with maintenance is really crazy to deal with.
You can look at it as cheaper but very disabled H2D, or very overpriced and too complex A1 with box.
BTW did you ever tried the High-precision nozzle offset calibration from the printer menu? I am wondering if this could make any big difference.
EDIT:
We may also very well add the ironing “flow” to the X2D issues:
TPU printing is so complex in Bambu printers, and not even allowed with FTS, so I haven’t even tried printing it with the X2D. I dread the day I’ll need it…
I didn’t use the heated chamber so far, so was unaware of the warping in the heating mode, and challenges with controlling the fans - thanks for the heads up.
I did notice the ironing issue actually… But didn’t give it much attention. I presumed it was an issue Bambu would solve with software updates over time. And did some testing to improve the results (was never able to get a perfect result - but it was good enough for me).
I did do the nozzle offset calibration. It might have improved the results a bit, but did not make them perfect. I also recently purchased the $80 visual encoder plate for better motion accuracy calibration. I’ll try to see if it helps in any way.
To “nice” features of this “flagship” printer we can also add the non working well automatic flow dynamics calibration. Which require profiles of every filament to get some acceptable results.
About TPU exactly the same thoughts, I will most probably buy one A1 just for TPU, as this “workflow” Bambu invented for TPU is just non-sense and too much hassle.
EDIT: Something else that I forgot, how do you feel about the AI camera and detection of the problems?
Before two days I had big detail fallen from the support, big red detail, and the camera did said nothing about it! I have also other failures and spaghetti and it did said nothing. But other times it said the detail moved but actually it does not, and sone other false detections. Few times also it properly recognized some issues but it is kind of 50/50.
Failure detection did work for me. Also poop-chute overflowing detection (I mostly do multicolor prints, so poop-chute overflow is a real issue).
But in both cases, the detection happened a bit late. A few minutes / dozens of minutes after the failure first started. So while it wasn’t fast enough to save the print, it at least allowed me to not waste any more filament.
I checked it, and it seems my detection level was “Medium”. I moved it to “High” and hopefully it will detect it faster next time (without false-positives hopefully).
I have no PETG warping issues as long as I keep my build plate clean. I do use fan deflectors from Makerworld on both fan outlets. Stock fan settings. Stock PETG bed temp of 70C. The chamber sits right at 40C when printing PETG.
I’m gonna put on my tinfoil hat to say this, but
[tinfoil]
I swear that with my X2D, that if I use “Bambu PLA” filament profile, it autocalibrates PA/flow-dynamic better than if I choose “Generic” and autocalibrate. I dont even use bambu material. I was driving myself crazy doing PA tests on each extruder, saving them in that accursed “calibration” submenu. I instead now just LIE and use Bambu PLA/PETG/etc filament profile, edit and modify temps/fan/speed to suit the reality of what I’m loading in the printer, and it autocalibrates acceptable every time [minus TPU, always wrong, always too low]. It’s sus as ■■■■ and does not spark joy. This is not the same behavior on my orcaslicer driven A1 fleet but they are simpler and older machines
[/tinfoil]
This could be true, as you may know some people are printing ASA and ABS on open printers. It really depends on the detail, and if it is tall and big enough you may start getting in troubles. This is why we have many warping topics from X2/H2 owners, unrelated to the bed adhesion. But related to the cooling profiles.
My experience so far is mixed but I can tell that deflectors help. And if they help this means without them there is a design flow coming from the first closed Bambu printer up to H2C. So why we do not have this deflectors integrated. Especially if this is one of the most printed thing on maker world?
I can also swear that I had never saw good results from auto calibration. And if I do it from the calibration menu - you have also auto option there vs what I got from fully manual calibration the difference is at least 20-30%. Generic profile for me was absolute trash, so I am using the Bambu profiles and mod them. As it seems you do the same.
Compared to single nozzle printing X2D vs A1 there is nothing more complex. It also uses eddy current sensor and direct drive extruder. So for me is not explainable aside to trials for big cost cut on the X2D production. And absolutely lazy firmware and software updates.
For me it feels like they focus on the most expensive machines now, and just try to produce whatever could be more complex. Without spending too much time to improve other models. But if you go to the H2C forum you can see that they even day from power cycle … So I do not know what is going on but I do not like it. And the quality is not good across the models.
BTW I bought in this company ecosystem and mostly buy original filament and consumables! But the quality is not there - FOR ME, and it seems for many others.
You’re right, that definitely should have came with the printer.
