So I bought this PETG-CF filament from Paramount 3D called “Steampunk” and I’ve never seen a PETG-CF this hard to calibrate. I really like to color though.
I’ve done my fair share of filament calibration but I can’t even get a decent temp tower to print. Temp tower range as written on the spool: 220-260
In the initial attempts I tried turning off the part fan but it made it worse with the corners curling.
I turned the part fan back on but the bridging is just terrible:
I figured out early on that it seemed like it had anchoring issues so I increased the wall loops to 4 and and decided to bump the flow ratio from .95 to 1.0 with slightly better results:
Just got my p1 s like 3 days ago. printing with ams and bambu filament make it really easy.
As you did i bought some polymaker petg cuz i needed it quick , and trouble at first . I used the basic bambu setting , look at the setting and go to the wiki and see the temps and flow u need.
I know my first tries were way too cold and fast. I upped the temps and slowed the print bit and had great results.
Sorry i cant help you more but ive only been printing for 3 days !
Thanks for the reply.
I have had my P1P for over a year now and I have at about 40 different filaments sitting under my work bench. This is by far the most challenging one I have ever encountered.
My standard PETG profile is already set pretty slow and normally gives me really quality prints without issue once I calibrate the best temperature.
I have managed to ALMOST print a a complete 220-260 temp tower with this stuff, but I walked away for the last few tiers and came back to a broken tower with a bunch of spaghetti for the 220 range.
Even with that tower all of the layers are weaker than PLA.
I have bumped the flow ratio as high as 1.15 and the solid infill speed down to 10 mm/s and it still isn’t printing right and my layer adhesion is weak.
I was hoping someone on here with much experience had some advice to point me in a more fruitful direction.
I have other 4 other rolls of PETG-CF (Bambu and others) that print wonderfully.
Could this just be a bad batch that has no hope of salvaging?
Clearly something was not right.
The bottom row had to be peeled off layer by layer to clean the plate.
I decided to take my default “slow” PETG (80 mm/s) profile and cut all of the speeds in half to 40mm/s and on a whim I thought I would try printing at a higher temperature than suggested, as I have noticed the generic profiles the Bambu studio uses always seem to be hotter than what most filament makers suggest.
This significantly improved the both the aesthetic qualities and the strength of the temp tower. I can still pull apart the layers at the 260 tier with my fingers, but 270 - 265 layers are too strong for my fingers.
So it appears this filament really works better at higher temperatures.
I wasn’t comfortable with the curling on the front overhang on the tower though.
So I played around with the cooling settings in the filament profile and there seems to be a very fine line on what cooling keeps the corners from curling (more cooling 30-60%) and reducing the layer adhesion to where I can pull it apart with my fingers (less cooling 10-30%).
I upped the cooling fan speeds (30-60%) for this print and it eliminated the curling, but it pulled apart at the 265-270 layer just removing it from the plate.
I changed the cooling to 20-45% and it seems to be the “sweet spot” between aesthetics and strength, as this one looks pretty good and took a lot of force to break the 260 layer with my fingers and the 265-270 is quite strong:
Have you dried the filament? Not all factory sealed filaments are dry.
Your P1P is equip with harden steel nozzle & extruder right?
It could be a bad batch like you said, most of manufacturers will give you a refund or replacement if you show them the proof. Good luck.
Yes. It has been sitting in a dry box for several weeks before I took it for a spin.
I have been using this printer for over a year now and I am very familiar with the behavior of “wet” filament. It did not exhibit any of those tell tale signs.
Other PETG-CFs I have used have never been this difficult.
Coincidently, most of the reviews of this exact filament had users claiming it was unusable. Silly me for not listening. ; )
Hardened Nozzle < Yes of course… The slicer reminds with that annoying popup every time I hit “Print”!
I don’t ever use the stock one anymore.
Metallic colored PETG is hard to find, let alone PETG-CF (that is why I bought this one).
I imagine that is for a good reason.
I think between the coloring agent and the carbon fiber, it has altered the normal printing characteristics of PETG.
I think I finally have a usable (albeit slow) profile.
printed some regular petg this week. some polymaker and some bambu.
Maybe i dint dry the polymaker enough? ( dried it for 2 days off and on) but bambu filaments print so much better. guess they have them dialed in or something. And im loving the ams! i might even get a second one later on.
