I’m still learning here, and having great enjoyment printing.
I’m using the P1S, firmware is 01.06.01.02, which is currently up to date.
I have 4 filiments in my AMS the AMS firmware is 00.00.06.44.
All filiments are from Bambu. 3 are PLA, one is PLA-CF.
I have the hardended steal head fitted.
If I print the Benchy using PLA and all default settings, it comes out very well.
Print it out also using the default settings for PLA-CF and alot of strands are not appearing to make contact.
The AMS unit is sealed and has silica gel. Been stable at 20% relative humidity for many days now…
Slice settings is 0.20mm Standard @BBL X1C
No settings within that changed. Bambu studio knows about the hardened steel nozzle and that is 0.4mm.
Also printed out the dice type model too. Again no changes, just default settings. A lot of it coped very well, overhangs is where it has troubles. I see PLA-CF was using a hotter temprature, over 200c, cant recall exactally what it got to during printing could have been 220ishC…
The door and lit was closed on the P1S. The ambient room temprature was 20c.
I assume that you did not put the spools through a drying cycle in a dedicated dryer or on the printer yet? PLA-CF is a bit more prone to moisture uptake than PLA Basic (although the numbers do not neccessarily reflect this). And filament nowadays is frequently moist straight from the bag while a dry AMS will not actually remove moisture from a filament.
So that is where I would suggest you start as it eliminates a recurring troubleshooting point. You then have a known filament quality with which, for example, you can look at nozzle temps in case they are too high. There are plenty of Temperature Towers on MakerWorld and other places.
Perhaps a drying cycle is needed. Its worth a shot. The PLA-CF was in a sealed foil bag. I must have got it in the AMS within 20 seconds and shut the lid and was at 20% humidity in the AMS. The room I was in was at 45% humidity. Are the filiments dry when they are packaged?
I have found a Temprature tower, and printing it now. I’ll report back.
Unfortunately not. Some are water quenched… So it is usually a good idea to assume new filament is moist or even soaked.
A temp tower makes more sense when the filament has been dried. Otherwise, your next print may succeed, but never again as you’d need to use a different bunch of settings depending on filament moisture.
With dry filament, you have a stable reference that you can re-use.
Best method for drying? Pop it in the oven when the roast dinner not in there and the wife isn’t looking? Reminds me when I painted a car part years ago and had to bake in the oven.
Or can the P1S heat up enough without damaging anything inside. 90-100c for 12 hours sounds scary. Would that not damage the fans and belts in the unit?
I see seperate units are avialable on Amazon Filiment Dryer Amazon
What do you use for drying?
I’ve used the P1S for filament drying, (set the bed to 100c and pop in the filament for 12-ish hours) it mostly works and it’s good when your in a pinch. It hasn’t damaged my printer yet either.
A filament dryer is undoubtedly better though.
Just wanted to say based on your first post: you should not expect this at all, you should expect a visibly better finish from PLA-CF versus PLA.
I use SunLu dryers, the S4 is a really good one for about any filament and it’s not too expensive. But for PLA (easiest to dry) the P1S should work OK in a pinch, just make sure to follow the wiki or a trusted source.
I myself use a Sunku S2 and an older Enisia. Nothing special, but good for PLA, PETG and TPU while higher temp filaments take longer or go on my build plate for drying. There are quite a few good discussions on driers in the forum. What is the 3d filament dryer you choose？.
When drying, make sure not to exceed the recommended temps for the filament though as that could bind the strands. That can make the filament unusable. So do not use 90-100°C for PLA, PLA-CF.
Also note that the recommended build plate temps are not the actual chamber temps. That tends to be quite a bit lower.
We knew it would be bad, but it is a refrence for any changes I make to compare this it to.
What I have learned is that filiments are not gurrantted to be dry when you opened the packaging. I dind’t know that. Thanks EnoTheThracian for that info.
I see a couple of you have mentioned SunLu driers, the S2 and S4. I have ordered the SunLu S4 today. I dind’t know filiment driers were a thing until today. Learning so much in one day.
Thanks everyone for all the wise words.
When the drier arrives, and I have dried the filiment using the recommended settings of 55c for 8hours. I’ll do another print to compare with and post results in this thread.
While waiting for the dryer to arrive, you can use your printer to dry the filament. Just lower the bed, dial in the recommended bed temp, put the spool on, cover it with the cardboard box it came from, turn the spool upside down after 1/2 time has elapsed, take out after the required time, zero bed temp and you should be good.
It is also described in the wiki for the X1 but works with the P1 as well.
Weigh your spool of filament before drying and after, if you have the ability. Food scales are a cheap reference, you want one that reads in
1/10th of a gram.
Dried in the printer for 12 hours, flipping at the 6 hour mark. Base plate set to 68c, which gave me 54c on the spool. Had a wifi/Bluetooth temperature and humidity sensor next to the filament under the cardboard box to give me measurements.
The one on the left is before drying. The one on the right is after. No noticeable improvement. Atleast damp filament can be ruled out now.
Cooling fans work, tried all 3 individually while looking in the printer, I can see 2, the chamber fan I can hear when I turn that on.
I have the hardened steel part fitted for the -CF filiment and the software knows after telling it…
Settings
Cant find a profile for P1S, it comes up as X1C, but reading other forum posts its that way so Bambu say the profiles are the same and no reason to create duplicates.
When printing I do see 230c temprature. So its using the correct settings for PLA-CF. When I printed the temperature tower I was watching the temprature change in steps at it went up the levels.None of them bridges very well. Hard to tell what was best as all a mess as can be seen above in an earlier post.
Attached the Benchy. No changes were made, but perhaps my initialized defaults were inforrect. 3DBenchy.3mf (2.5 MB)
To be honest, I am at a bit of a loss here. There’s nothing that jumps out in your settings, the roll is dried, it really should not look like this.
Since the temp tower was printed with the not yet dried filament, did you do one after drying? If that looks the same, I’d ask for a spool refund or a replacement roll from Bambu. They have been known to be forthcoming in this regard. May need to run a longer drying cycle and yet again a temp tower again just so that they have run through their ticket process, but this is not the kind result that your drying and settings should be giving.
