Apologies, the labelling looks off in the pictures. The print is not normally so faint and the plate code stands out, may be different batch to what I’ve seen. Anyhow, would be interesting to see if you could nick your buddies plate for a quick check, make sure you clean it afterwards 
Can it be it? A lot of people have complained about the tramming procedure, especially the “just touching the printing surface”. The gcode provided by Bambu is setting the 3 positions of the toolhead at z=0.4mm so if you tram several times in a row, it will always lift the toolhead 0.4mm from your “barely touch the print plate” you adjusted. A better procedure experienced by many is simply to run the gcode provided and instead of adjusting to touch the plate, insert a 0.4mm feeler gauge at each location and tram to this value.
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Re: the screen.
I am hopeful BL will launch an official upgrade option to attach the A1 (not mini) style in place of the existing B/W version.
I can’t imagine they would wish to cannibalise the X1C market by allowing that screen to be attached to the P1S as an upgrade or at the same time as purchased.
Grasping at straws here:
While playing ping-pong with support on this brain scratcher you may want to try from a clean sheet by:
- uninstalling and reinstalling Bambu Studio and using a fresh file straight from stl (to eliminate settings having been inadvertently changed, BS is sometimes doing very unexpected things and just opening a past project may reload errors.),
- giving one side of one plate a good scrub with a steel pad (One of the very, very few things I did not see as things that were tried. But if your prior cleaning procedure spread a thin contaminant film across the surfaces of your plates, you’ll need some mechanical abrasion. You have not been printing (and cleaning) PETG before trying PLA by any chance? Or used the same sponge, cloth or brush for both plates? Any chance of having something like silicone or PTFE getting on both plates through, for example, cleaning? I wash my plates in the same sink as my pots and pans, so I know I have some contaminant paths. Both ways.),
- re-setting the printer to eliminate that as a failure cause (and doing all the bearing and screw tighness checks/cleans/lubes from on there (again
)), - double checking first line layer width being set to at least 125% nozzle width and first layer flow being at least 1 (you probably checked a dozen times, but I did not spot it in the listings).
- And on high aspect ratio structures, maybe use a brim, non-crossing infill and monotonic or concentric lines for surfaces/infill.
Considering all you have tried and you going about it methodically it is questionable if any of that will help.
But the support ping-pong can be lengthy. So if your frustration level has a tiny bit of room left, these are some random thoughts from somebody far away about the problem…
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I do not know if this will help … but… I clean my plate after each print with Isopropy alcohol. using a lint free cloth
:eah Support sometimes are rapid response then wait for days, 
I have taken to cleaning my plates with hot soapy water and a plastic scrubbie. I stopped doing the ISA after cleaning as well. I also use a lint free micro fibre to wipe down and dry the plate.
I will try all of your suggestions at this point. I am familar with my buddies P1S and he prints constantly with occasional cleaning. I am doing each print so I am thinking there is more going on here.
I have reloaded BS already because I also thought my settings were mangled in my learning but the issue remained with stock settings. I never reset the printer itself I will try that next.
Only printed PLA so far on this printer… its less than 30 days old. I do petg on my prusa though and I agree it can contaminate plates. I have a dedicated plate for PETG and plan do so for this P1S as well.
the first layer flow is 125% I havent played much with flow yet since when the pla sticks to plate the quality is perfect imo. A flow rate test does show 0 as the best result but my k flow rate is .02
I was going to fine tune this once the prints were more stable.
Gosh, even more ticked off than the already hughe list indicates…
I assume that you also borrowed a plate from your buddy? That would have truly ruled out bed adhesion once and for all. Prints on one, doesn’t on the other… Can’t argue with that.
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One more thing i would try is to reseat the nozzle or replace it if you have one.
Have you tried a different roll of filament? dried the filament?
Oh yeah all my filament are kept in a sealed box with meter at 15% …
The results are the same across all my filaments , Bambu, Overture, Sunlu and Polymaker,
since this is a brand new printer (less than 30 days) I am not yet up to date on the change of nozzle procedure… I will try this even if to use learn how to
I also want to try .02 nozzle when I get the issue sorted
I have just printed a few boxes on my P1S for a friend to use in their bathroom cabinet.
All of which are close to the edges of the plate. They are also extremely flat with 90º corners. Each one has come out perfectly and no lifting from the plate.
I mention this to show you how it is meant to look and act when printing larger objects.
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now here a very long shot , don’t stone me to death asking for this after all you’ve already tried and likely had this already done but here it is anyways.
Do you have “bed leveling” activated when you send the print job to the printer?
My experience with my P1S is that the printer seems not to store the leveling map from previous leveling passes and if not activated when sending this can cause first layer adhesion problems.
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Since you’ve covered quite a bit already, have you considered checking the slicer settings? Sometimes tweaking parameters like the print speed, infill density, or cooling settings can make a big difference, especially with larger prints.
that is something I am eager to achive very jealous indeed
It looks like they have decided my bed is bad and are going to send me a new one.
The procedure to change out the bed is very daunting but I am rolling up my sleeves waiting for the post to come in.
Thanks for the suggestion. I tried several settings and tested these settings on another P1S i had access to with my filaments and on that P1S it worked flawlessly
ABL is on be default in my BS settings but I have been making sure its on each print since I started the issue.
Its a great suggestion tho because the P1S I was using at a comparison against my own the user had it checked off by default to speed up prints. So it can happen
So it seems BL is sending me a new bed to replace the one my my new P1S.
I am excited to see how this printer performs when it is at its best The bed swap procedure is very scary looking but needs to be done
now I am scrambling for the 3 screws that held the bed down in shipping and waiting for post to bring me the replace,emt
Cheers and thanks everyone for the help and suggestions I learnt a lot as well.
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You do not need the 3 shipping screws to replace the bed.
The wiki is very detailed, just follow it step-by-step. If you know which way to turn a screw, it will be very straightforward.
There are a lot of different types and sizes of screws. I found it helpful to print pictures with the screw locations marked, then glue the two letter-sized pictures to thin cereal box cardboard. Each screw was then inserted into the cardboard at the correct location as it was removed. This let me return each screw to the same exact spot. You might be able to use my X1C pictures with your P1S, but look over the wiki to verify, and make new ones if needed while you are waiting for the new bed to arrive
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Let’s hope my previously provided photos soon become your ‘after’ examples rather than your previous ‘before’ photos.