Unable to print anything larger than 100x100 from center

I have gotten my P1S printer last month so far I spent a lot of time learning and doing tests but cannot successfully print anything larger than 100x100 (roughly) from the center,.

Now I have opened a ticket with Bambu, they had me manually
adjust the 3 z-axis, manually tram the bed and run numerous calibarations yet still cannot print anthing outside the center.

In the center printer works flawlessly and first layer sticks as should. AMS color changes and tests done with PLA Bambu, Overture, Jayo and Sunlu all come out great.

If I print anything larger than 100x100 (again roughly) the center of large obect prints fine yet the outside edges do not stick and warp… if I leave it print it warping is so bad that the print head hits the print and knocks the out portions of print right off the plate.

so far I have

  • run calibration
  • adjusted the 3 z-axis rods (at request of support)
  • trammed the bed manually (at request of support)
  • run calibration
  • trammed the bed manually again (at suggestion of support)
  • run calibration
  • raised and lowerd bed temperatures
  • slowed down inital layers to
  • printed with and without cover
  • cleaned plate with soap and water and then alcohol at each test
  • bought a new pei plate (thinking the oem plate was defective)
  • printed with and without cover, and with and without door open
  • changed PLA from bambu to overture to sublu to jayo to elegoo

I am so frustrated with this printer… I have been printing with bed slingers for over 5 years I saved to get a P1S to avoid these types of issues :frowning:

is there any suggestions on what to try next?

Thanks
:slight_smile:

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As the P1S is an enclosed printer and you are printing with PLA, you need to leave the lid or door ajar during printing or the PKA material will overheat and warp.

Have you got the door open at least 25% during prints?

——

Ruling out bed adhesion issues, have you tried printing the outside edges of your plate only? I, guessing they will stick.

Try running a flat sheet test to see if you have areas of the build plate at fault.

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I should have mentioned I have tried printing without the glass cover and with the door open.

thanks so much for the suggestion I am going to try the flat sheet test now.

Regards

Here is my result


the front corners are bad but as you notice in zoomed in portion there are warpiong and bubbles forming. Its hard to see with this white PLA but its there. :confused:

Just as a additional note when I pulled this plate off the printer the area circled in red was solid white the area outside the red circle was darker. As I tilted the plate 45degs or so the entireprint slid off the plate (this is after 30 seconds of print finish.

At a loss as you have tried a lot of things already.
But I did not spot an increased nozzle temp. Are you by chance close the lower end?

Also, when thoroughly cleaning the plate with soap & water, you do not need the IPA afterwards. You can actually give it a really good scrub. In some cases, users reported needing to use a steel pad or steel wool to refresh the build plate. I doubt that this would occur simultaneously on all 4 sides of your 2 build plates though.

Finally, you could increase the first layer line width for a try.

:crossed_fingers:

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The looks like an oily build plate to me.

I second the suggestion to stop using alcohol after washing it.

Regular dish soap (Preferable Dawn with no additives or moisturizers) and hot water. Give it a real good scrub.

Here is the Bambu wiki for reference.

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/filament-acc/acc/pei-plate-clean-guide

Does this look familiar?

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Thanks I was doing IPA so just cover my bases… I use a non metal scrubbie when cleaning and I did this clean right before the test

I cleaned the pei plate right before that test with a non metal scubbie and then went over it with isa as well.

I have seen discolerations like this before but it is the entire outer plate as my photo shows shows and its not lighter but darker discolorations (not sure if it makes a difference. It seems to be air under the print outside the center as I can push down on it and the discolor goes away while I apply pressure.

Also not sure if its relavent but I noticed when I print within the center only the prints until sufficantly cooled off do not come off the plate easily. When I print a larger print they tend fall off the plate if I tilt it upwards to pull

I just re cleaned the plate with hot soapy “dawn” water and retried the print test.

This is the result right at the begining.

Sunlu white pla
220 nozzle
55 bed first layer
speed 50 inital layer

I can’t find fault with your settings and since you thoroughly cleaned the plates, probably tried all sides of all plates, it is a puzzler.

You could double check that the part fan is disabled on the first layer (usually set as default so probably the case) and increase first layer width to 150% nozzle diameter.

If that does not help and you are not particularly unfortunate in your build plates (which would however result in differing failure areas on the 4 print surfaces), then I am afraid that my next thought would be rather bad news.
There’s a hughe thread on distorted build plates. While most of them appear to be of a concave nature, a convex distortion would help to explain the failure case you are seeing. Hope its not that as you’d need to claim a new heat bed through Bambu support.

Try turning the build-plate over and re-printing the single-layer test.

  • Does this produce different results?

  • Can you confirm you have set the textured plate as the build-plate you are printing on?

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Thanks for helping … i AM going crazy on this… the problem seems to be getting worse as days go by as well. My latest attempt at a lightbox has the print just dragged all over and failure on first layer.

fan is off for first layer… I tried increaseing 1st layer to 225 / 65 but it does not help.

Here is a jeep lightbox looked like after I flipped the plate.

Now it looks like the area stable to print in shrinking as well :frowning:

This is a very important thing to check. The P series doesn’t check so its easy to get the wrong plate, which affects the amount of “squish” as well as the bed temperatures…

Only the X series (I believe) does perform the check.

I have the A1 mini, A1 (being recalled) and the P1S and no automatic plate detection AFIK.

Please correct me if I am wrong.

It is set properly.

The temp is set via what plate I am using and that is working as it should be right

I dont think it checks but there is a drop down before you slice to choose what plate

My problem took a turn for the worse I can no longer even print in the center of plate anymore. a simple temp test (which always printed fine) is failing now :frowning: