Not the end of the world for me now that I know about it. Kind of annoying, I just gotta keep my eye on it. I was thinking of buying that paint/coating that you can put on a nozzle that keeps filament from sticking. Has anyone tried it?
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It makes it easier to remove, reduces the speed of building up, but it cannot prevent from condensation of vapourised buildups.
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Probably a thin welding glove could be used. I use leather gloves for my hobby purposes(welding), but Iāve seen shows where the guys are TIG welding and plasma cutting with thinner glovesā¦ And especially Tig, that requires precisionā¦
Not sure if brand or price, but the heat from either profession is much greater than our nozzlesā¦
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My left nozzle looked very similar to this, I def feel it is something from the factory. It was almost the same spot as yours also. My right nozzle came right out no issues what so ever. My left I had to tap out, found crud on the bottom and discoloration on back of nozzle identical to yours
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As a A1 user , i found hotends can be a little obstinate the first time they are removed, even after switching to maintenance mode , i put this down to the heat and magnets holding them in place , if its any consolation.
Does the h2d have a similar service hatch/cover like the A1 ?
The supposed residue could actually be rust - I also had that on the right nozzle and the corresponding contact surface of the heater.
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How were you able to identify it as rust? The rust Iām most familiar with is orangish, but this isnāt that. But I suppose it could be some other kind of corrosion.
How can we test this to see whether it is or it isnāt? Iām thinking that if it is removable with a solvent, like IPA or acetone, that itās not rust, but Iām far from being a chemist. Anyone know?
I did try it, though not on this printer, to make removing PETG drool from a nozzle easier. Itās marginally helpful, but it has an upper temperature limit thatās below what the H2D can heat its nozzles to, so I wouldnāt recommend it for this particular purpose. It wouldnāt prevent a buildup. It would just make removing the buildup easier.
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Mine looked similar to yours the first time. I put the nozzle back on the machine(no sock). Heated it up to 250. Immediately pulled it off with a paper towel (no heat gloves) and then wiped it off with a paper towel. Came off pretty easy. I had to do it twice to get it all off.
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Thanks for posting that! That does sound like perhaps the easiest and most gentle way to do it
I did shut the nozzle heating off right before pulling the nozzle to not cause any damage to the toolhead heating element with no nozzle installed
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It would be great if somebody who has just received their H2D could pop off the nozzles and check for factory oil or anything else that might carbonize or otherwise stick. I know thatās a lot to ask, given the temptation to load up a spool and press āGoā, but Iām just putting it out there in case someone possesses that level of self-restraint and would be willing to do it.
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When I got my H2D, the nozzles would pop off super easily and everything was clean.
After just a few prints, they started to stick.
Iāve adopted the process of heating to 190C before taking the nozzle off.
Havenāt had any issues, other than having to pick small pieces off here and there.
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Now that I know this is something that will likely require frequent on-going maintenance, I can do the necessary. Itās just not something I had previously read about needing to do, so I never did it. But now that the evidence is accumulating, and thanks to everyone here who has shared their experience, Iāll do it, and Iāll see whether doing so helps me avoid another stuck nozzle. 
I got my HF nozzle last week and popped it off after a few hundred hours on the default nozzle. They were clean, but Iām also just printing with PLA/PETG and TPU for now.
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Did you get it cleaned off?
The first time I replaced the right hand nozzle on my H2D it was also pretty stuck. I had to also wiggle it from the heatsink end and it looked just like yours. I gave it a clean with a brass brush and itās been fine ever since. I have to agree that it might have been something from factory.
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I donāt think mine(the first time) had anything to do with the factory as it happened to a HF nozzle that was in the Right nozzle slot and I donāt remember crud being on the toolhead. Unless its something that is coming from around the sensor and only melts at high temp. My last picture is clearly burnt filament, and I had cleaned the tool head and nozzle well after the first time. I didnāt check it or clean it though after doing a high temp print before doing a lot temp print. But that nozzle (right) only ever had low temp filament in it.
Are we finding out in real time that it only happens on the right side? Or are you guys only running asa and abs on the right and pla and petg on the left?
Starting to wonder if high temps are warping something, creating the gap.(for situations where the gunk is covering the whole mating surface and leaving a clean spot where the sensor sits)
Do you guys remember if the weird temp issues people were getting was also only on the right nozzle?
Another thought is expansion characteristics of the copper sensor vs the surrounding metal. the copper can only expand outward.
These comments in this/my post werent for the people with only a tiny bit of gunk at the bottom and no sensor imprint
When keeping it real goes wrong.