Upgrade P1P to P1S, what do you have to set bambu studio P1S

Bambu Lab P1 Series
1

Now that I upgrade P1P to P1S, what do you have to set bambu studio P1S to make the extra fans work. I already did the G-code M710A1S255.

2

Isn’t it sufficient to select the P1S in Studio ?

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3

yes i already did that but is that enough to get the extra fans from the upgrade to run at temp

4

Yeah Bambu didn’t do a good job of giving us more information. They didn’t clearly state which g code we should apply to the system because they list both the start g code AND the end g code (that’s what I did) but then they say that the start g code turns it on and off with the steppers… so why are you showing us the start and end g code specifically?

They don’t say we can or can’t use the P1S profile so I assume they don’t want us using it because they didn’t say to.

Then on top of all that, the g code the reference to add when doing the upgrade to the P1P doesn’t exist in the P1S profile so how is the P1S controlling these things? Firmware? Idk.

5

Have you also tried with only with the start code ?
Or should the stop code be added if necessary.

It’s all confusing.

6

I did but then re looking at the instructions I changed it after the first couple prints. No idea if it’s working or not though… I wish we could get Klipper level of machine info for things like this.

7

I found something at bambu wiki

P1P to P1S Upgrade Kit

We released the new P1S 3D printer and simultaneously provided the official upgrade kit to allow everyone to benefit from most of the upgrades the P1S brings.
In order to guide you to complete the upgrade more conveniently, we have summarized the installation guidelines for the relevant accessories in the upgrade kit in this article.

You can utilize the P1S profiles in Bambu Studio after updating the P1P to P1S, but Bambu Studio has no means of knowing that you installed the P1P->P1S kit. If you choose a different printer profile, that warning is standard. But pressing confirm will still do it.

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8

I posed this question to tech support, and they said you can either use the P1S profile or the P1P profile as long as you add code to turn on the MC fan to the P1P profile.

I tried both. The P1P with added code worked best for me. When I used the P1S profile, I had problems with PLA not sticking to the PEI plate as the bed temp is only set to 55 degrees. With the P1P profile, it sets the bed temp to 65 degrees.

Just my experience.

Richard

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9

I’m late to the party, but, keep in mind YOU set your bed temps when printing. Profile defaults are just a starting point.

10

Yes. I agree! That is what I have found.

11

I don’t disagree with the idea of this… but I’m finding the BBL profiles are pretty spot on for BBL filaments. Spending an hour or two trying to improve the tune is normally a waste of time for the BBL filaments with BBL profiles. I do think you can improve areas, but that will likely be a tradeoff somewhere else.

Personally, I just say tune for your problems, not for the sake of tuning. At least for the BBL filaments.

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12

Also remember, when you get bed temps that are 10C+ higher like this, you’ll want to up the chamber fan as well (if you have a P1S or Converted P1S). Higher bed temp = higher chamber temp, and the P1S and P1P don’t have a chamber thermistor so you have to manage that based on your bed temps.

Note, if you open it up as they suggest (no top glass and open door), this is less of a worry. But if you are like me, and leave it closed up, upping the chamber fan is a really good idea.

13

Thanks. I actually printed a massive print (max printable size) with PLA. The ambient temp was low and I had the door & cover closed to avoid warping. All went just fine.