I’m a brand new X1 Carbon user. I notice that the Bambulab textured plate is “sold out”, so I need to make do. Will PETG print on the bambulab cold plate if I put down a layer of blue tape first and with a layer of gluestick on top of that?
Alternatively, I have an extra flexible magnetic Prusa textured build plate laying around. Would it be better to simply slap that on the Bambulab and print onto that instead?
Please see here: Which Plate to use for PETG - #4 by Quasilla
You can also use a third party textured plate: Energetic plates are good, as well as Wham Bam.
Thanks! I’ll look into the plates you mentioned. Meanwhile, though not ideal, the bluetape covered in gluestick does seem to be working as a “build plate” for PETG, though it does require forcing a resume:
I’m suddenly remembering now that in the past on a Prusa printer I was able to use talc on the build plate as a kind of release agent for PETG prints. That’s certainly easier than the blue tape method.
Just flip the cold plate - the engineering side works perfect for PETG.
Confirmed! I tried it after putting gluestick on the engineering plate, and it worked like a charm. 
I just use the Cold Plate. Works perfectly when changing the filament setting for cold plate and petg to 70 degrees. I did not had a single problem with adhesion. Neither too strong nor too weak.
Just FYI for anyone reading this in 2023 who just wants it to work and wants a simple solution without having to buy new plates:
For PETG/ABS/ASA flip the cold plate and use the “engineering” side (despite what the label on the plate says).
Always apply these rules in this order:
Why do you need to bother with such nonsense? 
Just apply glue stick on engineering plate. In case of prints coming off, increase bed temperature to 80°C
Thats crazy, i never use glue stick on engineering plate. Just increase bed temp if needed. 
I’m a bloody beginner, but for what I found out while getting into the groove by testing 6 PLAs from different brands, some will have better adhesion with glue stick, some without, some won’t care at all (also printed PETG and ASA but only from one brand, so don’t have a brand comparison here).
For example, the Amazon PLA: I tried all imaginable settings and combinations of bed and nozzle temp, speed and 5 different glue sticks and it just wouldn’t adhere to the print bed but draw spaghetti all over or lift off the bed after some layers. I really wanted it to work (the light grey color is so perfect and I just can’t find it at any other brand), so I just skipped the glue and - lo and behold! - it printed absolutely perfectly! I don’t even know how it ocured to me to try without glue stick - I’m literally a clueless beginner.
Experiences with other brands: Ziro PLA would only adhere WITH glue stick, [eSun matte PLA and] Entina PLA will print equally fine with or without, but are easier to lift from cool bed WITHOUT glue stick, German brand Dreidruck PLA will print easier WITH glue stick. [Edit: eSun matte PLA doesn’t work without glue stick - I got confused]
Long story short: Now I usually try first without using a glue stick (being able to skip adding glue, sticky print parts and cleaning the print bed is obviously very convenient) and if it doesn’t stick well, I’ll try with glue stick.
Additional info: if printing without glue stick, it’s essential to clean the print plate with rubbing alcohol in order to get rid of any dust or grease (fingerprints).
Not so clueless now, eh?
I will add that the glue stick is often used as a release agent, and not just an adherent. So, if a print gets really stuck to the build plate, don’t try and force it off; that’ll ruin the surface. Wait till it cools, or rapid cool it with an ice cube on the reverse side.
It’s quite a learning path 
I also thought that the glue stick rather helps removing it, that’s why I was really surprised that my prints are easier to remove when I print without glue stick…
Inconsistency is the only constant
Along those lines, I think the bambulab’s liquid glue, if it is good for anything, may be meant as a release agent. At least in my testing, it didn’t hold particularly well, compared to nothing at all. On the other hand, as per the explanation given by @Sillihel , maybe results are a function of glue, filament, and build surface (all three), which, if true, makes it hard to generalize about how good or bad a particular print adhesive is.
Anyhow, I quickly moved on from blue tape after I finally received bambulab’s textured build plate. I ended up liking it a lot…
Nonetheless, because of highly favorable reviews from all manner of different reviewers, including maker’s muse, I’ve started testing garolite as a smooth build plate alternative:
There is no reason to cover your smooth plate with tape and glue to print petg. The best release agent I have found for printing petg on a smooth plate is Windex.
I print almost exclusively in petg, and learned this trick last year after going through a couple build plates due to the print bonding to the plate.
Clean your plate with windex brand window cleaner, just the basic stuff with no fancy additives or scents.
Leave a heavy coat of windex on the build plate so it looks wet when you are done, and let it dry
Print your petg with recommended bed temp, and watch your prints come off cleanly and easily after the plate cools
I agree! I was a lot less experienced when I made that post back in January 2023. Since then I found Garolite, and it’s great as a build plate for PETG. I continue to use PEI build plates for PLA. Not saying your way is wrong, though. Some of this comes down to personal preference, not to mention personal history with different surfaces, which is how most of us ultimately arrive at our personal preferences. One can use all kinds of release agents to coax PETG from not sticking too tightly to PEI, but for me it invariably goes wrong at some point and I just no longer want to risk it, especially when garolite works so well with no risks.