Well, in the absence of further guidance/consensus, I opted to use Krytox GPL206, because it is rated to 260 degrees C, is allegedly inert, and also allegedly never evaporates.
Grab a tube of the green machine grease at Harbor freight been using that since wayback when I ran huge injection molding machines. Used it on all my ender3s and laser.
I use Super Lube 92003 Silicone Lubricating Grease with PTFE
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Well, whatever you pick, I think you want it to be rated to withstand the maximum temperature it might ever encounter in the machine. What is that maximum temperature? For sure, it will be less than whatever maximum your hotend might reach while printing, so that’s why I picked that temperature as the target. It’s the only way to be sure. The X1C is an expensive and delicate machine, so I don’t care whether it’s overkill. I just want to be sure it’s not under-kill.
I immediately removed all grease from the races and threads and, minus the carbon rails of course, and relubricated with day lube ceramic grease. Its something I had leftover from another project and comes in a syringe for $20. It uses microscopic ceramic bearings to eliminate metal/metal contact so I figured it would last forever on my x1c. It also maintains viscosity from very low temps to above your typical print chamber temp. Viscosity is very similar to white lithium
On behalf of BLab’s development department…
Obviously we send flocks of Ninjas with kitchen timers to observe your printing in real time and when youre not looking they’ll throw a shuriken on the settings screen so the dreaded maintenance messages poops up!
Heres how to join Ninja school in case you dont believe me and want to go undercover to find out the truth Mel Gibson/Oliver Stoned style
Further the lube in question was obviously chosen because in Wiki it says harder to find than unobtanium and more expensive than ink in original printer cartridges. Theres rumours the dreaded BX-300/F is harder to find than a single rooted strain of hair on my head.
To RocketSled, I have never used dry PTFE on my balls either nor screwing in my Form3 printer since I dont own one nor do I own dry PTFE. (It’s not sold here in the Swedish wilderness or pherhaps theyre just hiding it from us village… “geniuses”?!?) Butt if you are very dissappointed in that Specialist dry PTFE you can happily donate it to me and I’ll put it to good use, I’ll spray down anything that moves here guaranteed!!! 
Just a thought…
May the force be with you mates,
/Silverbullit a.k.a TheSwedishChupacabra
Dry lube on the steel rails would be ok but on the screws its not going to offer any dampening properties which may be necessary according to the engineer specs
I think the lubrication message must be timer based, because you can dismiss it with a “done” response and then it doesn’t come up again. If it had been based on sensed movement resistance, it seems more likely that the X1C would continue complaining if lubricant hadn’t been applied. One can never know for sure though just by guessing. It might be, for instance, that telling it “done” sets the current resistance level to be normal, and then it looks for z-axis movement resistance above-and-beyond that. So, that’s why I posted the question: to see if anybody knew for sure one way or the other.
interesting theory, I wouldnt be surprised if the printer is indeed that smart. I got the message to lube the lead screws during the initial setup, i obliged and the printer has not repeated it back to me since.
I used super lube 21030.
So… Super lube 21030 or Super lube 92003? 
From QA of Amazon:
“super lube 92003 silicone lubricating grease with ptfe” and “super lube 21030 synthetic grease”
“One is a silicone grease. the other is . . . not. (It may be a PAO formula.) On the Super-lube website (under Tech Data Sheets) it says, “There is no Silicone in Super Lube® Multi-Purpose Grease with Syncolon® (PTFE).” Although the name seems slightly different, on that webpage it specifically includes product #21030”
In the USA is the name super lube and in Europe is the name synco lube that’s why the number are different. Its the same inside
Sorry your right in the 92003 is silicone inside
We don’t really need to talk about the basics now: Grease can decompose each other and completely cancel out their effects.
Especially when it comes to high performance food Grease, you only really change when there is no other option - but that’s just my opinion, which doesn’t always have to be right.
The silence about there own Bambulab lubricating bags makes me a little thoughtful… And by the way, when changing a lubricant product in the in the food sector field, I don’t even trust the experts from the alternative manufacturer. But everyone has to know that for themselves - I definitely won’t do that anymore.
So… what’s is the correct alternative?
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I use the Synco lube 21030 with no problems, what i see is that most of the babulab printer users use.
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Thank you, you saved me having to look that back up.
The lead screws and rods just need to be lubricated, what we use hardly matters as the loads and speeds are negligible. I cleaned everything thoroughly with IPA and then used white grease with PTFE, it coated everything nicely and remained almost clear white after a week of printing, but you can use whatever you want. The main thing is to clean the debris (dust, hair, filament bits) from the rods and not get them into the bearings. Even if they were completely dry you would probably not wear them out during the printer’s lifetime.
That said, some lubricants, when mixed, can congeal and cause trouble, but that’s in high load applications (think motor engine), but I think you would notice that as it turns into a kind of jelly in that case and again, in our use case, it would probably still work fine.
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Food safe white specifik lube purchased through AliExpress I think, minimal 1kg jar 30ish Euro/USD + PLUS shipping 5 billion gold bars or sumthin…
(Food Safe = best before date would be like a year or two, dunno exactly but youll have to subscribe to new jars…)
Meaning a drop on each threaded printer rod… so 1 drop is like 100 Euro/USD
Conclusion is nobody on this planet will buy the original grease they really want, the original grease.
It is amazing that Bambu Lab being awesome at everything else has not portioned the lube out on their website at like 0,1kg at 2-3 bucks instead…
Hmm actually the only and rare thing annoying or rather that I wished for is a “Send print to ALLA printers” button, besides the original lube not being availible on Bambu Labs webshop… (That would definitely be a win-win-win situation, a win for us customers, for Bambu Lab and definitely the greasy manufacturer…) more
@Silverbullit Yes it`s amaizing that Bambuab do not have it. As other things as well e.g. Lidare replaicment - I already redirect a lot of jobs to other printers. Luckily, a colleague still has some space in his luggage and if fillament comes from somewhere else, the money is quickly recovered…
Grease Expiry date is 3 years (at least that it written on my one) and as is usual for FDA Grease. Anyone can do it however they want, FDA Grease is in a class of its own. Maybe it works, maybe it does not work but I will not try it and i don`t like to figure it out.
But now answer is a answer as well. The normal Chines answer for it doesn’t interest me at all? Throw the printer away after a year and get a new one or if I tell my boss, I’m fired? You never know… and the @Bambulab silence is noted. And this thing will not change on a A1 or an X2… time will solve such matters, no problem at all. On which way ever, we will see so no problem at all 
