Today, I received a new heatbed for my 3D printer. Although it wasn’t perfect (with a 0.35mm dip at 25°C and a 0.15mm dip at 60°C), it was a significant improvement compared to my original heatbed, which had a 0.7mm dip. My original heatbed was leveled with aluminum tape, reducing the dip to ~0.15mm. I wasn’t sure if it was worth spending a few hours replacing it using the official heatbed replacement procedure, so I opted for a shortcut and replaced only the heated bed, leaving the frame intact, like denkiopmn did.
Note: This procedure is significantly easier if you’re replacing a v3 heatbed with another v3 heatbed.
- Press the Home button on your printer to enable uninterrupted control over the axes.
- Move the toolhead to the maximum rear position by pressing the “Y” button several times. Lower the heated bed by 3cm by pressing the “-10” button three times.
- Turn off the printer and disconnect the power cable. Be cautious, as the heatbed’s AC power is likely 220 volts.
- Unscrew the three tramming nuts. The bed will rise a few millimeters. Make sure not to lose any components. At this stage, you should have:
- 3 tramming nuts
- 3 rubber spacers
- 3 springs
5. You should now be able to access the temperature sensor cable, which can be easily disconnected.
6. Remove the two power cable covers using the 2mm hex (Allen) key that came with your printer, and disconnect the power cables.
7. Remove the ground cable using the same Allen key.
At this point, you should have completely disconnected the heatbed from the frame.
When installing the new heatbed, ensure that you reattach the plastic power cable covers!
After installing your new heatbed, perform a manual tramming procedure by following the manual bed leveling guide.
Additional Information for v2 Heatbed Owners:
Unfortunately, my original heatbed was a v2 model, making the power cable removal process quite challenging. Unlike the v3 design, the v2 heatbed features a JST-like connector for the power cables, which is covered in silicone. Moreover, the plastic cover is not removable. In my case, I had to cut the entire plastic cover of the power cable on the original heatbed to remove the power cables, and even then, the socket broke, requiring me to solder it back in place.
