Would depend on the viscosity, no? I guess in my mind, I was envisioning something that wouldn’t run or self level, since @anasazi37 mentioned using a straight edge to level it off themselves.
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Oh NO! Certainly not from me! I think your post was awesome and totally get any frustration you expressed. My responses were totally intended to support you.
@xi.2dvh - Likewise my friend, I want to completely assure you I was not bashing you in the least!!
I think the point I’ve been trying to make was best stated by @Matt here:
Although he said in more elegantly and in half the words! LOL
Cheers all!
I was wondering about automotive Bondo automotive body filler.
I suspect that would insulate rather than transfer heat.
Also a bit permanent of a solution.
Ooh! I just looked at the thermal conductivity numbers! You’re right - much more of an insulator than a conductor. I had thought of a layer of glue down first to allow removal, just like on the bed, but maybe not with epoxy resin.
Just asking: Would it be possible to heat the entire print bed at, say, 100-120 degrees C in an oven and then carefully straighten it with a suitable jig?
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Is this a daft idea for a quick fix?
Print a 1.2mm thick bed sized plate out of some decent material.
Let it cool to room temp.
Use this on the bed to put your mag build surface on.
The top surface of the printed plate should be flat after all.
Wouldn’t that have the same banana shape as the warped bed? However, it could probably work if you printed it on a printer with a known flat bed.
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Seems to me like you could would need to sand it on a flat surface. Wonder what filament is best at conducting heat?
Well actually that wouldnt work, such a thin surface would bend.
Maybe BambuLabs “software” solution could be to make the printer able to print a super thin perfectly flat surface that you can glue to the bed. It would take the highest point from the bed leveling and print a surface that fills in all the low spots to the same level.
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Well when I print something like that the top surface is flat.
Told you it’s a daft idea.
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If that’s true, then this should work.
Hurrah.hurrah.
We may have a simple fix.
Up above though, @rovster was saying it wouldn’t work as it would “require that we actually know the values of the bed mesh”.
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That lacklustre blog post is exactly why I won’t be buying one yet.
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Well at least on my ender 5 how bed leveling works is it slowly fades to a flat top surface, usually set to 10mm. It’s probably something like that on the Bambu printers as well. And obviously this surface can’t be 10mm thick, it should be as thin as possible.
If I didn’t misunderstood - he wants to print and use the printed surface to level?
Yes it wouldn’t work, because the bambu does not fade out the ABL. Means top surface is as uneven as the very first layer.
Seems like BambuLab should be able to add such a feature, that the printer could print such a surface. Of course it would just be a bandaid fix, but better than nothing.
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I might be wrong, but I don’t know any plastic which is not an insulator…
On my contraption it prints the first layer as cock eyed as the bed face is.
It has no choice.
As the layers build up the top surface gets more flatter in comparison to the real world. Guess this is the mesh compensation jobbie working.
Isn’t the bed AC powered and not therefore powered by the PSU unit? Maybe I don’t understand how it works