I did not want to do any tape fix for several reasons.
Main one being that when I submitted a ticket BL would ask for the log file.
They did…
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Yeah, I get ya. I took pics and micrometer readings, then pulled the log files and copied off the SD card to my PC, then did the tape. No sense putting up with a warped bed while the BL machine slowly trundles along LOL.
The problem has been around for quite some time.
And if BBL takes its customers seriously, it should have already taken successful measures to improve quality (Which BBL also promised in one of the last posts).
It would be interesting to know how many customers who have received a BBL printer in the last few days are still struggling with this problem.
Does anyone have any figures or “inside” knowledge?
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I raised my ticket about 2 weeks ago and they promised to send me a replacement after 4 weeks (2 more to go) to ensure that quality wise the bed will be ok.
So far I can’t say I’m dissatisfied.
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If you could keep us informed, it would be nice.
I do think BL most certainly should replace the warped beds with a bed of which is not warped and should be held to a high degree of accuracy if they expect to withhold any credibility going forward.
The fairly obvious reason behind the warped beds is due to a new supplier of which many have suggested above. They really should look into who they trust to sign off on QC which directly effects their reputation. Trying to meet a quota while letting QC slip is a definite way to burn an entire community given this is their very first product.
Having said that, my printers are of an early shipment (November 5th 2022) and both of them are near a perfect level after 5 months of use. So they certainly are capable of producing a level bed… just not at the quantity they are trying to pump out now apparently.
This is 0.03mm on the only portion of the bed there is a gap.
This is 0.15mm and was a tight fit.
So, I hope everyone here might gain some relief from this? Marginal I’m sure but at least we know they can make a levelish bed. Hang in there and try to remain persistent but respectful.
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Just had email to say my GoodPlate from Germany will be with me in a few days.
Will be nice to have a flat bed at last.
Unfortunately they aren’t going to replace your bed if it’s not warped enough. Mine seem to be about 0.4mm when cold, 0.6mm when hot. From what I’ve gathered reading this forum there is no way they are replacing that, supposedly flat parts still spin on the table and are noticably wobbly. So I guess the only option is to try to fix it with tape which will never be perfect. So I’ll never have a perfectly flat buildplate.
Curious what people think of this idea that is similar to one posted earlier about using thermal glue to flatten the bed. I’m planning to put a layer of kapton tape on the thermal pad and then use appliance silicone with a ruler as a trowel over the top. This should work and would ultimately be reversible.
I welcome any comments if you think this may work or is just crazy talk.
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but then you will decrese the thermal connectivity between your bed and the printplate you need a good thermal conductor and alu tape should be way better as silicone or kapton (kapton is an insulating material)
Quick update from my end. Heard back from BL support, after providing my shipping information for a replacement heatbed (and my engineering analysis related to a potential bed leveling software fix), and they are now saying that it will be at least four weeks before I receive the replacement because the heatbeds are out of stock. I’m guessing that’s because they are actually out of stock or have pulled the remainder of their existing stock because the warping issue is present on some/all of the units. I was starting to worry that I’d miss out on a non-warped replacement if they sent me something now, so I’m glad that I have to wait. Here’s hoping that the next batch of heatbeds is better…
That’s cool!
Please be sure to report back, and don’t forget to do a manual tramming to align for the new height and any variations.
Cheers!
I tried using silicone tape with alum tap on top. Got good results but when I measured temps there was a 10°C change between the center and the untouched edges. It was also noticeably slower to set temp.
I removed it and went with thicker alum tape (I sourced it in BOLD up ten or so posts). Huge difference in ease of application and could not discern or measure a temp difference when done.
Clever to use Kapton tape as a base! But I think the silicone will change your temps and may work the bed heater a little harder. IDK if it’s really an issue. “Guessing” on this stuff often leaves you wondering what you were thinking later, LOL! Or when some design engineer tells you you’re crazy. Not that that’s ever happened to me. Nope. 
But if you do this, might use or borrow a temp gun and check what your real temps are so you can compensate. 10°C can be the difference in a big model failing after 4 hours when it rips loose.
Uhmmmm. What exactly is a “sheet metal front door opening” you are reffering to?
My X1C has no metal parts in the “basement”. Only moulded plastic
Wanted, I would like to purchase someones replaced/warped bed.
If anybody has received replacement print bed I would like to purchase the original warped bed from them.
Direct message me here if interested.
He’s referring to the thin metal door frame.
If you look at the sides of his bed, the gap between the bed and the door frame is larger on the sides than in the middle.
The door frame isn’t made of metal, it’s definitely plastic. On my printer at least.
I agree that this may actually be good news. I too have been waiting, not even reported yet.
They publicly acknowledged the issue, I’m sure someone somewhere is being beaten with a shoe 
and I’m guessing it’s some third party manufacturer.
I certainly hope they had a contract that said they would be significantly reimbursed for bad product.
The BL principles are some serious high level guys, I’m sure the contract was solid, and they have most certainly told them that they contracted for flat beds and they better get them moving forward or heads will roll.
It takes time for manufacturing to happen.
I’ve seen you mention that before, I think you should post this as an ‘original post’, it will get more eyeballs on it.
Does anything you plan involve large hammers and bloodletting?
If you need someone to help with that I’ve a bit of held in rage to offer. Just sayin’ … 
I don’t want to wait for a replacement and would like to look into machining a replacement on my own. I just don’t want to take my X1 apart to see the build plate as it is now. I would prefer to look at a failed one and try to repair it.
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So I rolled the dice and tried this method yesterday afternoon. I took the aluminum tape off of my bed (grumbling while doing so because it took me a while to get it all on there at the right levels), cranked the heatbed temperature up to 100°C, left it there for about 4-5 hours, then turned everything off. When I checked the bed this morning, the warp was definitely more pronounced, perhaps 30-50% worse than before. As you say, this is hopefully as bad as it will ever get, plus I tend to work with PLA at lower heatbed temperatures (60-65°C), so it will be subjected to less stress. Now it’s time to put the tape back on, followed by tramming.
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